AluminumAlloyBoats.com

Hello from the Florida gulf coast. Nice area San Diego.

Ahoy from the Florida Gulf. Welcome.

The tuffcoat is on we will see who wins tuffcoat or the Florida sun. Now to the under side and the trim tab conversion to Bennett. The both sides of the Minn Kota actuators leaked. Motors dead no longer made. Wet slipping was not kind. http://s689.photobucket.com/user/3f8/slideshow/Alloy%20house%20k...

Doing some PM. http://s689.photobucket.com/user/3f8/sl ... %20keeping feel free to share any experiences with Tuffcoat, paint removal, and the effects of stainless without using tef-gel.

Welcome to AAB from another Florida boy.

I'm in!

welderbob wrote:Your getting an aluminum boat, it should have an aluminum anchor. Fortress anchors have never let me down. We supply them with our new boats. Your mate will appreciate it.

Welderbob

Fortress works for me!

Google Armaflex. It is available in sheets.

What have you been told? So far I'm not disappointed. Any issues I've had were not from the manufacture.

Friends don't let friends use plastic. Go Glass! Plastic is just too soft to yield a good long term outcome.

Look at the G3 or G4. Check the last two pics from this old post of mine. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4148&hilit=+radar

These are pics of my original zinc (one year wet slipped) Top is the new Navalloy with it. Second pic is the Navalloy (one year wet slipped). The Navalloy looks to me as being more active.
(expand top pic)

Unhappy find. Yes boys and girls that is a brass fitting on an aluminum nipple in a deck bilge.The other pic is the nipple from a line already removed. It was on the unused kicker filter supply. First pic is my main fuel. Can't wait to pull it apart. bad_brass.jpg P1000528.JPG I don't know the outfi...

I will be using stainless. And may tap the hull. I just removed several stainless screws holding sensors and anodes. They were put in tapped holes last year using Tef-Gel. It was wet slipped for the entire year. They all came right out without problem. I love the stuff. Not cheap but works.

I will be using polysulphide sealant. A good suggestion noticed on a different forum. Only snug the screws then let the sealant set. Come back latter for the final seating of the screws. This will help prevent a dry seal squeezing all the sealant from the surfaces with too much torque.

I am removing the bottom paint and wanted to replace my plugs. The holes are 30mm. An inquiry to Stabi returned a source for new plugs. "Our supplier in New Zealand, Tenob Marine, supply to a company in the USA called Marine East – www.marineeast.com Part numbers are Medium Size 4220 Large Size...

I like the idea of your stealth color concept. But being in the tin boat club inherently makes you great radar reflector. Big blip, small site image = we gotta check that out.

I've taken the bait, standing by, and starting to turn blue. Don't keep us hanging on Jetty. Besides I'm stripping off my bottom paint. And looking for ideas.

If you get a chance try one. Well built and good handling. Only complaint, aluminum fish box in Florida 88' water doesn't work. I will need to get a game bag to fit the odd shape.

Take a look at these.

http://www.performancemetals.com/anodes/navalloy.shtml

Did you get your boat from Marty?

All my best for a speedy recovery John.

Congratulations on the new build.

Ready to go. Well Chaps I opted for the displacement method instead. The first time with silicone. That did not work well. I knew it would not adhere to the poly, but the gap if left was unacceptable. So polysulfide was employed. It will not stick to the poly well either, but it will to the screw he...

Webasto 2000 here. It has been working fine.

After wet slipping and fighting nature's relentless need to build reefs. It is time to consider going back to the trailer. Since our bottom paint is in need of a redo or just removal period. DYI is preferred. Getting the boat up high enough for work needs to be over come. Boat stands seam like the p...