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Strongly suggest you replace those zinc hull anodes with aluminum equivalents plus add aluminum rudder anodes to the stainless tabs. Also be sure the main engine anode is aluminum. Agree with Kevin the flowering and pitting has other factors encouraging the problem but getting your anode situation s...

Is the pitting/flowering both above and below the waterline? Show a couple of close-up pics of your transom anodes, trim tabs and engine mount brackets.

pjay you can put up photos directly from your computer, click "add files" button at bottom of posting window, find your pic on your 'puter then hit the "place inline" button like I just did with the old tableboat gag pic (or you can do a drag/drop too)

Congrats! You got a lot of work done in a hurry . . . !

I work on lots of aluminum boat bottoms and have never seen an issue with large thru-hull transducers.

I just noticed in an earlier pic that it had huge trim tabs considering the size of boat which would indicate that something was up with the handling. Are you planning to put those back on?

My repower is roughly similar to yours, I pulled twin Merc 4cyl I/O's and replaced with V6 Zuke on a non-flotation bracket. Assuming your fuel is on centerline you will notice a huge tipping reduction when filled up. I carry 115 gals and it sits in the water like a '58 caddy when full but gets light...

Nice job and interesting to hear about potential advances in boat building technology

Welcome!

Cool boat, if it doesn't have one already be sure to fit a decent sized aluminum anode on the transom if you plan to leave the boat in the water up in Canada to prevent galvanic corrosion.

These are all somewhat good ideas if not a little over the top in some cases, particularly since you don't have intention to leave the boat in the water. For instance your shore power isolation transformer would come in handy if you were planning on long term mooring in a decrepit marina full of poo...

used to be beer cans were made into boats . . . now it's boats into beer cans!

Tariff's kicking in to curb china dumping, at $3.00 lb USA mills can re-open and a bunch of people can go back to work, in theory anyways. Bob, what percentage of a finished boat's cost is the uncut plate ordered for the job?

The fix . . .

Hull & corrosion pitting was sandblasted, filled & faired, epoxied & bottom painted.
Trim tabs & hull equipped with adequate aluminum anodes.

Thanks Jon

Kevin, one odd thing about the chine pitting is that the very tail end of the extrusion (last couple of inches) is unaffected. It appears that the welding on the inside of the hull is somehow altering the metallurgy of the chine piece? This is the fourth boat I've worked on with this pitting issue a...

I'll be working on a boat this week with the style of chine that Kevin has been talking about except the issue in this case is what happens when the extrusion is attacked galvanically on its exposed surface. In this situation the problem came about due to improper hull anodes originally fitted by th...

Exciting times!

When the client says he wants it BLUE . . . we make it happen, thanks Jon!

boatzincs.com sells silver/silver chloride reference anodes (half cells)

To add to that Kevin the other issue to watch out for on boats built that way is the fact that the chine extrusions seem to be made of a slightly less noble alloy than the hull plating they are joining so they are particularly prone to galvanic pitting in the event that the owner does not have appro...

Cool! I did the same thing on my LaConner

Looking forward to seeing her in my shop!

Those Otters are da bomb

Seems like it would be hard to get hurt at that kind of number. Repower, rewire, rerig . . . only thing is the dent will be tough to fix if you want it to totally disappear.