Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Hey folks I'm Deva (day-va). I'm from California's beautiful San Francisco Bay Area . I'm a commercial "mosquito" fleet rod and reel fisherman . I currently fish a 1984 whaler 18 outrage with a 2015 Suzuki df140 and 2016 Suzuki 9.9 fully remote kicker . The whalers a good boat but I'm 37 and I've literally broken my neck while being a stupid teenager . I need a bigger more stable softer riding boat . I've been looking at a lot of aluminum plate boats . Especially after hitting a 5-600 pound sunfish 2 weeks ago while rounding point Reyes . Longest 15 or so miles ever getting back to tomales .. Wondering about the damage the hull had sustained (none thank god) . I've been looking at the pacific 23 hard tops . Would love any input and feedback .. Any competing boats out there with a smaller price tag? Hoping to have twins for tuna runs . Although I'd like a flush decked diesel even more !
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Re: Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Welcome to AAB from Florida.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuhNBhoi0Qw
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Beyond that, we all enter the food chain, and not always right at the top."
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Re: Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Haliman78, Welcome to the AAB.com Forum, lots of serious welded plate boat owners here.
Ride and stable are hard to combine! The narrower a boat is, chine-to-chine (without rigging to reduce roll) usually; the more it rolls with the same load as a wider boat. But it most often has a sharper/greater V/more deadrise so the 'ride' is less jarring with lower impact in any given sea state combined with a given speed. (You'd need to compare all boats at the same speed and sea state to get a comparison for 'softer ride'- one to another.)
The stable part, I'd guess is when you're working gear (fishing) and not running in or out to fish? So that comes from wider shallower hull forms, and they tend to pound a bit at speeds where the narrower boat's deeper V will usually give a softer ride- but roll more.
I'm just saying that regardless of the material of construction, hull forms that combine stability with softer rides are not all that common- most are some degree of compromise. Worse yet is to try to define both of these terms! They're variable, there is not really accepted measurement of the two attributes so we all use whatever terms "mean something" to each of us. Not the most productive discussion!!
Since there are tons of welded boats that would do the job, depending on your tests and agreement, I'd first look at the cost ranges in your area to see where you want to invest? Once you find the boats in your range, then I'd make an effort to see if they're available to test drive? Finally, I'd make sure there was a competent aluminum boat experienced- marine surveyor involved so you're not getting something that isn't in good shape?
Aluminum is used for commercial fishing extensively wherever the market can afford the term of return of this more expensive and higher quality boat hull. However, there is a tremendous amount of mistreatment through ignorance about the metal's requirements for maintenance that translates to some boats on the market being 'junk'. Let the buyer beware! (maybe that should be "wary"?)
Until you can state a little more definite goal: (ie.) " I need to travel 200 mile trips, I need to travel 20,30,40,50-some (?) knots out with 2 tonnes of bait and ice and X amount of fuel. I need to haul back a load of 2 tonnes (4,500lb.) and still travel 10 knots. I don't need a sleeping cabin but I need a weather helm/dog house/pilot house and I never trailer the boat (or I trailer the boat regularly so it can't be more than 8'-6" BOA)" -definite terms and conditions of use: then replying with quality information is very hard for the other members.
This sort of design narrative statement or statement of requirements (SOR) makes your search more fact-based. Otherwise, you'd hear from one owner his boat "will do everything you need", but another will say "his boat is ideal..." and so on- until you've heard about but not driven many boats!
Just my few cents worth of reply to your post. Welcome aboard and please share your thinking process, there are many boats for sale in the various classes you're discussing, some are even listed here.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Bigger is easy! Longer, wider, deeper... add up to a 'bigger' boat. But in aluminum bigger may still not weigh in with a Whaler! Ride quality in boats is not only hull shape but displacement too. So the whalers, regardless of shape have a decent ride due to weighing more than a 1959 Cadillac with sand bags in the trunk.Haliman78 wrote: I need a bigger more stable softer riding boat .
Ride and stable are hard to combine! The narrower a boat is, chine-to-chine (without rigging to reduce roll) usually; the more it rolls with the same load as a wider boat. But it most often has a sharper/greater V/more deadrise so the 'ride' is less jarring with lower impact in any given sea state combined with a given speed. (You'd need to compare all boats at the same speed and sea state to get a comparison for 'softer ride'- one to another.)
The stable part, I'd guess is when you're working gear (fishing) and not running in or out to fish? So that comes from wider shallower hull forms, and they tend to pound a bit at speeds where the narrower boat's deeper V will usually give a softer ride- but roll more.
I'm just saying that regardless of the material of construction, hull forms that combine stability with softer rides are not all that common- most are some degree of compromise. Worse yet is to try to define both of these terms! They're variable, there is not really accepted measurement of the two attributes so we all use whatever terms "mean something" to each of us. Not the most productive discussion!!
Since there are tons of welded boats that would do the job, depending on your tests and agreement, I'd first look at the cost ranges in your area to see where you want to invest? Once you find the boats in your range, then I'd make an effort to see if they're available to test drive? Finally, I'd make sure there was a competent aluminum boat experienced- marine surveyor involved so you're not getting something that isn't in good shape?
Aluminum is used for commercial fishing extensively wherever the market can afford the term of return of this more expensive and higher quality boat hull. However, there is a tremendous amount of mistreatment through ignorance about the metal's requirements for maintenance that translates to some boats on the market being 'junk'. Let the buyer beware! (maybe that should be "wary"?)
Until you can state a little more definite goal: (ie.) " I need to travel 200 mile trips, I need to travel 20,30,40,50-some (?) knots out with 2 tonnes of bait and ice and X amount of fuel. I need to haul back a load of 2 tonnes (4,500lb.) and still travel 10 knots. I don't need a sleeping cabin but I need a weather helm/dog house/pilot house and I never trailer the boat (or I trailer the boat regularly so it can't be more than 8'-6" BOA)" -definite terms and conditions of use: then replying with quality information is very hard for the other members.
This sort of design narrative statement or statement of requirements (SOR) makes your search more fact-based. Otherwise, you'd hear from one owner his boat "will do everything you need", but another will say "his boat is ideal..." and so on- until you've heard about but not driven many boats!
Just my few cents worth of reply to your post. Welcome aboard and please share your thinking process, there are many boats for sale in the various classes you're discussing, some are even listed here.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
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Re: Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
I run a Pacific23 and if you want a very stable fishing plat form this is it, if your want to haul a butt load of weight this is it, if you want to haul butt [read go real fast] get a yellow fin.
The Pacific will run faster than your back will want to go due to the dead rise and width of the hull and of course that is what makes it a way stable platform to work off of.
Would I buy again......IN A HEART BEAT, I love my 23.
The only other boat I would get would be a Pacific26.
The Pacific will run faster than your back will want to go due to the dead rise and width of the hull and of course that is what makes it a way stable platform to work off of.
Would I buy again......IN A HEART BEAT, I love my 23.
The only other boat I would get would be a Pacific26.
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
Re: Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Right on thanks a bunch for the feedback .. . After fishing for 12 hours today and running for 3 hours . Today being a fairly average day. I probably ran 45 miles total trolled 5 miles .. Carried 200lbs of ice out + 100lbs of fish back . My whaler is so short at 18 ft that when the wind picks up at all it's a freaking slap fest all the way home . I would have liked to go look for albacore today .. And would have if I'd felt like loosing some fillings . I trailer everyday. 25-200 miles ... I pull with a beefed up 98 Chevy z-71 1/2 ton .i fish solo everyday (well my 16 year old blue heeler bow tie comes with me . Including on tuna trips . We ran 90 miles total for 2 bft last November . I thought about getting a capehorn 22 and a couple other boats of that style .. But I'm really not a yuppy day fisherman I need a hard core commercial vessel . I'd even like something I could set up to pull long line gear for black cod eventually . . I would like to keep speed In the eqUation . But if I could cruise 20-30 lightly loaded in average conditions of be very happy . I'm happy to give any more info that will help you guys steer me the right way . Just keep asking questions please and forgive my tired BACK SIDE answers ;-) thanks guys ! Deva
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kmorin
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Re: Hello all I'm new my names deva (day-va)
Deva, I'd say that any of the plate boats that are from builders who have been in business longer than a few years ( longevity shows durability and market acceptance, not to mention reliability of the boats and business) will serve you well.
I'd look for the longest hull you can afford with a 12-15 degree transom deadrise. The reason for my suggestion is the money will go the farthest in size with the least number of finish items. So if you acquired a Pacific 23'-26' (?) for example without a hard top, rod lockers, and lots of other customer/add-on features- you'll find the "most hull for the dollar".
Since the boat is welded aluminum, you can add to/modify/rig up/cut slash and weld anything you could want! that includes stretching the hull to greater lengths, but I'd suggest getting the longest hull you could afford, and let the "fish pay for the improvements." So in a day when you'd have gone out for tuna but settled for 100lb of other fish, the newer hull will make the work to go for more catch less exhausting/tiresome/difficult - resulting in heavier hauls home. (that is: mo' $)
A longer waterline will provide a softer ride in short seas at the sames speed and sea state. The pitch of the bow is just as tiring as roll of a super deep V trolling or drifting. The impact of running out or in will be reduced by the longer waterline's easier balance (pitch reduced) in the same sea state as the longer lever of buoyancy, results in reduced angle of pitch over a shorter waterline.
I'd say the best $ value is LOA, the least in a very highly featured or appointed boat since few of the latter will be designed with your fishing methods in mind.
You can modify anything about a metal boat with carpenter tools, some spare metal, and a welding system. I'm not making light of the skills required, knowledge implied or trying to say that all modifications would be 'easy'. My point is- a big bare hull can be modified to adapt to a wider variety of fishing gear and catch than other materials- and last a lifetime after those mod's.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
I'd look for the longest hull you can afford with a 12-15 degree transom deadrise. The reason for my suggestion is the money will go the farthest in size with the least number of finish items. So if you acquired a Pacific 23'-26' (?) for example without a hard top, rod lockers, and lots of other customer/add-on features- you'll find the "most hull for the dollar".
Since the boat is welded aluminum, you can add to/modify/rig up/cut slash and weld anything you could want! that includes stretching the hull to greater lengths, but I'd suggest getting the longest hull you could afford, and let the "fish pay for the improvements." So in a day when you'd have gone out for tuna but settled for 100lb of other fish, the newer hull will make the work to go for more catch less exhausting/tiresome/difficult - resulting in heavier hauls home. (that is: mo' $)
A longer waterline will provide a softer ride in short seas at the sames speed and sea state. The pitch of the bow is just as tiring as roll of a super deep V trolling or drifting. The impact of running out or in will be reduced by the longer waterline's easier balance (pitch reduced) in the same sea state as the longer lever of buoyancy, results in reduced angle of pitch over a shorter waterline.
I'd say the best $ value is LOA, the least in a very highly featured or appointed boat since few of the latter will be designed with your fishing methods in mind.
You can modify anything about a metal boat with carpenter tools, some spare metal, and a welding system. I'm not making light of the skills required, knowledge implied or trying to say that all modifications would be 'easy'. My point is- a big bare hull can be modified to adapt to a wider variety of fishing gear and catch than other materials- and last a lifetime after those mod's.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Last edited by kmorin on Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: typo's
Reason: typo's
kmorin