HONDA WATER PUMP

[JETTYWOLF]

Okay, who's up to the task of scanning from their manual, for the directions of how to change a water pump on a 2006 Honda 225?

It has to be readable and then posted somehow.

I'm not a complete Moron, and have changed water pumps on Evinrude's, Yamaha's, Merc, old Johnsons.

But, ya know it's always nice to have pictures....I'm a man dammit, I do not need directions, just show me a few photos in case I get all bassackwards!

And have ya'll ever heard of this:

"we don't change a water pump, without changing both T-stats while we're there"
That's a quote from a mechanic here in J-ville.

I said, "while your there???????" "Your not there, the T-stats are up top, not down below!"

any thoughts? If this was a Honda car, I bet you wouldn't do a T-stat, for the fun of it....or would you? (glutton for grease, not me.)

Scanner, e-mail, web site, or PDF file needed, I suppose.

[Chaps]

I've not found good drawings for Honda parts breakdowns on the web so can't help you there but all these motors are the same except for variations in how you disconnect the shift shaft. Some connectors are down by the lower unit, some are midway up the housing and some disconnect under the main cowling. I can't remember where it is on the 225's but it's likely behind the side covers if its not showing down low.

The thermostats are easy to pull & clean/inspect. They are in their own little housings at the top of the water manifolds on each side of the engine. Its the spot in the system that you typically see salt build-up if you don't flush regularly. You probably do so I wouldn't worry about it.

Watch for hidden bolts holding the gearcase on, in other words, if it doesn't literally almost drop off you've still got a bolt somewhere holding things together like under the tab zinc or behind an intake screen. - NO HAMMERS!

[JETTYWOLF]

Thanks Chaps. Yep, I've looked to and Honda has all that as secret as the Norad floor plan!!

Yeah, they are all basically the same in form and function.

I'm cheap & poor, so I have not gotten the big shop manual, like Welder has, the real good ones, as of yet.

I wonder, if running fresh water thru the fitting provided actually washes out all the good parts that need it on a Honda. Ya know I often hear that engine off flushing doesn't get all the areas. Why not. Some say, "so thay can sell ya more parts, as they go bad".

I always do, and do it while the engines still hot...from at the dock to the trailer to my hose at my garage is 4 minutes away. Then, I do the flushing as soon as I hit the driveway.

Yeah, those T-stats are easy to get too.

Does anyone have any proof that Salt-away or Salt-X has worked, on little & critical parts like a t-stats, that can and will get crusty? Seems like it's too easy and might be pie in the sky?

[welder]

Tilt motor up to about 45deg , cut the LOWER ZIP TIE at the splice just above the LU at the front side [ This is the speedo tube ]. The lower piece of the tube will come out with the lower unit when you drop it down and this is where the 2nd person will be GOOD TO HAVE for the reinstall
#1 Remove Prop and washers [ pay attention to which way there on the shaft ]
#2 Remove Trim Tab [ one bolt ]
#3 loosen the 6 bolts that hold the lower unit on , when all loose start removing.
#4 Be sure to have a rubber mat or something under the skeg of the LU.
#5 there are some locating pins that don't want to just let go, use the palm of your hand and bump the LU and it will LET GO so be ready and watch your back. NO HAMMERS OR PRY BARS
#6 The drive shaft will come out with the LU , DON'T TURN IT OR THE SHIFT LINKAGE.
#7 Remove old Housing, gasket and impeller..... Install new parts and put it all back together , use grease on everything , Bolts,pins , Prop shaft , EVERYTHING. It should ALL go back together EASY , do not FORCE anything. When it goes , it goes easy.

Any Q's call me.

[JETTYWOLF]

I knew your were better for stuff besides just learning "HTML codes".

Thank BIG "W".......But:

Yamaha has all kinds of little rings and stuff, thats the reason I asked. Obviously you mentioned no big problems on honda. The Yamaha I remember was tougher than an Evinrude.
Little, bushing type items....a buddy did it for me and I remember him saying, "REMEMBER ya better not forget THIS thing!" So I guess I was shocked into the details of it all.

As soon as I can, I'll be gettin her done. Maybe I'll do the stats too.

Oh here I gooooooooo...

Then, as soon as all the potatoe chip grease and blood stains ground into my deck coating has faded, I'll be adding my new coat of anti-skid paint, that's sitting in my Laundry room under a controlled climate, in waiting.

Then, after all that it's a welded in Chum-Chopper like the "down under's" have in my swim platform. (hopefully we'll still get Pogies here in NE Fla.)

Then, since my wheels are all rusty (cheap azz galvanizing) I need all new 4 wheels. I'd like to go aluminum spoked.

And if the "depression" ends quickly, and I still have this boat.....off to the fab shop for side bumpers to be fabed and welded on.

Then a complete "colon cleansing", and a new coat of Nyalic over the outside of the hull.

Whewwww.... :|

[IN2DEEP]

Does anyone have any proof that Salt-away or Salt-X has worked, on little & critical parts like a t-stats, that can and will get crusty? Seems like it's too easy and might be pie in the sky?

I've been using Salt-Away since 2002 when my motor was brand new and it seems to help some, it doesn't completely stop the salt build-up in the cooling passages because I've seen it myself in the thermostat area and under the water pressure valve cover.

Cool, I've just noticed the new smilies ...Thanks Welder!!!

Where was I??? In that time, I've replaced the thermostat once. If you are concerned, do what chaps said. Take the thermostat cover off and clean them (soak them in regular 'ol vinegar to break down the deposits).

If you haven't already done the water pump, be careful not to get any grease on the "end" of the drive shaft (splined area that goes into the powerhead) because if there is too much grease in that area, it will make the drive shaft too long. Hope that makes sense.

Best of luck with it and beer after the job is done
Scott

[JETTYWOLF]

Thanks Scott,

We think alike. I'm always wondering if all those products work at all....

My Stats were replaced last year and so was the pump. But since then I did have a few interactions with some sand bars.

Saving up some cash which is really hard to do the pump and stats, if need be.

I'm still wondering if anyone else has ever heard of the T-stats being changed every time a water pump is...or is that a repair shop just doing what they do best. Over selling a job to make a few more bucks??

Guess I could call the Honda mechanic I know that works on all th USCG boats around here.
He's a 100% Honda Only mechanic, that works on 225's almost exclusively.

[IN2DEEP]

JETTYWOLF,

Generally speaking, the usual waterpump replacement is around 2 years. Some may replace every year, but I bet many let it go until they have a problem with it...3,4,5 years :shock: :shock:
If your tell tail stream is strong and steady, your waterpump is probably fine. IMO, replacing thermostats every waterpump is overkill.
I can't remember, but did your stats get caked up in one year?
I'm not familiar with how the Honda's stats are. but on my Yama-merc, the thermostat cover doesn't have/need a gasket, so checking it is easy and simple. I have a plastic cover which covers the flywheel and timing belt(2 bolts)
Two bolts hold down the T cover and I'm in.
I think most of the time you can just clean them if they have any crystals on them and reinstall. Best thing about that is it's FREE other than your own free time

If you plan on working on your own motor, get yourself a HONDA FACTORY WORKSHOP MANUAL
Might run you around 60 bucks or so, but money well spent. My local mechanic is getting $110 an hour! Hell yes I'm going do it myself if possible

Again, good luck with it, Scott

[21ftcc]

Jetty, a good place to look is the public libraries. I checked the online catalog near you and there was no Honda books. I also checked all Central Mass area and found a Honda repair up to 2005.
I think this is what your looking for?

You can check this out, but its only the owners manual.
http://www.honda-marine.com/owners/Owne ... roup=BF225

If nothing else works, here you can get this.

[JETTYWOLF]

Thanks Guys,

Scott, yeah Welder has the the big time Honda shop manuals and they run about $200, but my dad says, "I've ripped everything from Harley's to Kawasaki's and BMW's down to nuts and bolts using a plain ole Chiltons type repair manual......Just get one of them!"

Last check here the shops are the same $95-over $100 an hour. That's absolute rediculas!
And in the charter biz, I supply a $60K boat, a junky truck and $3,000 worth of tackle and 25 plus years worth of know how, and can barely get $50 an hour!!!! Man, do that piss me OFF!

I just double checked. The last time my water pump was replaced was back in January of 08.
And so was the T-stats.....cost: $536.00 at a shop where the wrench's are GOLD plated.
I went there because I was having what I thought was a sensor problem.

I'll go thru this winter and do the pump as spring comes. I did hit a sand bar, and I know I pumped sand thru the pump a few weeks ago. I'm just gonna order the impeller kit, and I'll double check the T-stats.