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While talking the shop owner who was rebuilding my TR's starter I mentioned the work I was doing repairing wiring issues. He pulled out his automatic strippers and showed me how fast an easy and they worked. They make easy work of stripping wires in tight places using only one hand. Just stick the wires in the jaw and squeeze the handle. I bought Paladin Tools 1115P Mini Stripax ($76.47) which strip 18-28 AWG and 1113 Pro 6 Stripax ($67.88) which strip 10-28 AWG . They are easily adjustable and can strip wire from 0mm up to 20mm in length and have replaceable blades. They are expensive but probably one of the best tools I have bought.

Jim

I have two of the Harbor freight ones along with one that is a miniature version of them. Work great. also a need a set of crimping pliers not the ones that are also a wire stripper too. A good crimper can also be used to crimp swedges for your tackle as well

I also ordered up those fuses that have the LED from HF. My local NAPA did not carry or heard about them.

No NAPA / Westbay Auto did not carry the fuses. Had to ordered them thru Harbor Freight.

Only have the crimping pliers that are also a wire stripper. I have not been happy with them and was looking to upgrade to a good set of crimping pliers. Being able to crimp swedges would be a big plus. Currently whacking them with a hammer. Which set do you have?

Jim

I two of these. the end has a wire cutter. they work well. A local tool store or electrical supply should be able to help you.

goatram wrote:I two of these. the end has a wire cutter. they work well. A local tool store or electrical supply should be able to help you.

John, those are more for automotive , the ones to use are Compression crimpers , they don't damage the plastic on the connector.
Peter Boyd uses them.

welder wrote:

goatram wrote:I two of these. the end has a wire cutter. they work well. A local tool store or electrical supply should be able to help you.

John, those are more for automotive , the ones to use are Compression crimpers , they don't damage the plastic on the connector.
Peter Boyd uses them.

Pls show a pick of the Compression style...how do they work if not crushing the plastic! Capt PJ

The ones I'm talking about are round, there is no leg protruding into the crimp.

Les I have those but like the style with the leg. I feel they crimp better.The Ideal ones to use are the type that we use in the Aircraft industry. They have four legs that crimp, they are correctly sized for each size of the splice or lug. Boeing has them that have individually removable jaws, and they are calibrated so as not damage the plastic covers. These cost way more than I want to spend.

I use the plain metal splices and as well as some plastic ones; both I now cover in heat shrink that has the heat activated glue.

10-4 on the HIGH DOLLAR wrenched, we use them here at work (lineman) with different size dyes and we do have the Hyd. Ones too. Just got to remember.....NO FINGERS

goatram wrote:I use the plain metal splices and as well as some plastic ones; both I now cover in heat shrink that has the heat activated glue.

I second that John. IMO it is the best way for automotive/ marine use. I even go a step further & solder around the crimp sleeve. And of course the heat shrink with the sealant is the NUTS.