Boat re-wire: What hardware are you using or do you like?

[85MonarkVC]

I am going to re-wire, clean-up, organize my outdated wire system on my 85 Monark cabin boat. I have several things I don't like:
The original dash has been covered with a thin sheet of alum which looks bad. I want to get rid of this and get back to the original dash.
The pull switches are nice chrome brass which are corroding as they are attached to the alum. The wires are a mess. The fuse system looks poor at best. I do not understand the isolated vs non-isolated buses.

My boat had two batteries - one near the motor and one in the cabin close to the dash. I still have to chase the wires to see what the inside battery was powering. I'm not crazy about having a battery in my cabin.
I also have some type of battery isolator.

My plan:
West Marine sells a real nice 6 switch/fuse panel for about $50.00. I'm am thinking 2 of these. I will run + to the panels, and then + from each switch to the device. I will then run (-) from each device back to a (-) bus, and then to the battery, keeping the ground isolated from the boat.

My boat will be mostly a work fishing boat so I am not too concerned about the high end chrome stuff as much as I am about rock solid dependability and function. I do realize the two often go together.

West Marine switch panel:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... assNum=294

What hardware, panels, or other devices are you using to help in your wiring?

I plan to wire my running lights, anchor light, interior light, rear deck light, horn, wiper, bilge blower, bilge pump, and Jabso remote spot light. I also have a radio, and may use 12v socket for other electronics that I would disconnect at the end of each trip.

What works for you? What do you like?

Thanks,

John

[Chaps]

I've seen worse wiring jobs, much worse in fact.

Its likely that both batteries are charged through the isolator and most of the house loads are driven by the battery mounted up front (or should be). The purpose of that type of set-up is to keep house loads from inadvertently running down your start battery (when the engine isn't running) but the fact that you have a "1-2-both" battery switch kind of defeats that principal if you leave the switch on "both". I would replace the isolator with a combiner and replace the 1-2-both switch with a simple on-off switch like this:



With this arrangement your start battery cannot be run down by anything else in the system. The house battery gets charged when the engine is running because the combiner clicks on when it senses a higher voltage at the start battery. When the engine is off the combiner switches off. Your old isolator does roughly the same thing but they don't do a very good job of charging either battery.

You need to take a look at what devices are on your "+ normal" distribution buss bar. About the only thing you would want on that would be bilge pump(s).

There is more to all this but I've got to quit and go eat. This should be enough to start the thinking process.

[welderbob]

Blue sea make some real nice electrical products. There artic white panels have circuit breakers. Some of there panels have fuses. I'd find a piece of 3/8 or 1/2" Starboard to recover the dash.

Happy Welding
Bob

[Ironwoodtuna]

I would use these switches , they are much nicer and more modern looking. I used these

[85MonarkVC]

Thanks for the great info. The diagram from Chaps is great.

What is the difference between + normal bus and + isolated bus? Why would I want the bilge pumps on the + normal bus? Do I need both buses?

Does this have to do with grounding? With an aluminum boat shouldn't all grounds lead back to the (-) negative terminal on the batteries with no connection to the hull?

The diagram by Chaps shows how disconnect switches can be used to isolate the battery from the motor (when not in use) if your motor happens to be grounded to the hull through its structure. I'm not sure how my 97 Evinrude is grounded. The second disconnect switch seems to isolate everthing else from the power when not in use.

I will check out the Blue Sea products that Bob recommended. Upon further reading I have found that the West Marine brand has a tendency to have a short life.

Ironwoodtuna's cabin is very well laid out. I like his layout on his side wall away from his dash....

Thanks again,
John

[Chaps]

Thanks for the great info. The diagram from Chaps is great.

What is the difference between + normal bus and + isolated bus? Why would I want the bilge pumps on the + normal bus? Do I need both buses?

Does this have to do with grounding? With an aluminum boat shouldn't all grounds lead back to the (-) negative terminal on the batteries with no connection to the hull?

The diagram by Chaps shows how disconnect switches can be used to isolate the battery from the motor (when not in use) if your motor happens to be grounded to the hull through its structure. I'm not sure how my 97 Evinrude is grounded. The second disconnect switch seems to isolate everthing else from the power when not in use.

I will check out the Blue Sea products that Bob recommended. Upon further reading I have found that the West Marine brand has a tendency to have a short life.

Ironwoodtuna's cabin is very well laid out. I like his layout on his side wall away from his dash....

Thanks again,
John

Those buss bars you have really need to go away, all loads (+ wires from 12v devices) should go to a breaker or fuse panel of your choice, the Blue Sea brand is good. The "isolated" buss bar you have is likely receiving power from the house battery and the "normal" buss bar is likely getting it power from what I would call the start battery out back. You will need to verify. I would suggest any loads attached to the "normal' buss bar (and your isolated buss bar)be transfered to your new panel so they can be controlled and the wiring protected by the breakers or fuses.

The bilge pumps should be wired directly to the start battery as it is your main power source and will always be providing power to the pumps even if every switch & breaker in the boat is turned off.

You will need to run grounding leads to the motor and all neg battery terminals and neg terminals on panels, don't depend on the grounding of the engine mount bolts and don't try to pick up neg ground from the hull (even though you will find it there). The diagram doesn't show the ground leads but the system requires them. All leads shown are the positive leads.

[warthog5]

Yep. I've seen a LOT worse.

Note the White wire holders that are stick on that have come loose.

Those work, but I add a Dab of 5min epoxy to them. I've seen people use 5200 on them. :( It makes a hell'va mess with 5200.

I'm not understanding the buss bars either?

I've been installing the BEP cluster switches in everything now. They are much cleaner and make life simple.

Example of one wiring job before I started.






BEP cluster switch for single outboard and 2 batteries. 1 is the start and the other is the house.

http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-C ... -1464.html






I have also been installing a buss bar in the rear area of the boats. This is a point to connect pumps and GNDs.
It gives a test point if there is a problem. It makes it simple to do a pump change.



The CB is a 40amp Blue Seas that has a jumper from the house switch and then feeds the fuse panel.

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This is a Blue Seas 12 circuit w/ GND fuse panel. I actually like the units that have screws to mount the wiring rather than male spade terminals.




By the way, I love the Black cable feeding power on this pix. NOT! :(





As to the alum panel. This can be replaced with a nice piece of Black acrylic.

You can also have Scot make you a VERY nice custom panel and a very reasonable price. He does Outstanding work.



Boats are always lacking for mounting boards. This is 3/4 the problem with crappy looking wiring. It needs to be mounted and not bouncing around. This would include a place to mount all the components like the fuse panel.

[85MonarkVC]

Thanks for the good ideas. I like the idea of having a bus in the back like you suggested. The pictures are very helpful. I picked up on that black power wire too when I took the picture.

I had not looked at the BEP line of products. That battery cluster charging switch is very nice. I have gone to their website and I like what I see. I see that Bass Pro Shops carry some of their products. I'll also keep Scott in mind. I am going to get rid of all the wood panels.

I will be sure to post my progress.
Thanks again,

John

[warthog5]

I see that Bass Pro Shops carry some of their products.

Buy it here.

http://www.byownerelectronics.com/store ... t=0&page=1

Don't forget the Blue Seas 40amp CB.

http://www.byownerelectronics.com/store ... 42&page=18