Boat trailer rebuild thread.

[Sculpin]

Well I'm about to jack up the boat soon and rebuild my trailer and hopefully do something about the god awful bottom paint job on the Sculpin.

I have been doing a little reading on replacing bolts on galvanized trailers. I want to custom make stainless steel ubolts to replace the corroding ones on the trailer and I want to replace the existing corroding straight bolts with stainless hardware as well. I don't see a big deal using stainless on a galvanized frame. I am getting mixed reports online. This trailer is used all the time to launch my boat and does see alot of saltwater when launching and loading etc. I rinse with fresh water when I can.

What are your thoughts or experiences with replacing bolts on your galvanized trailer?

[Sculpin]

Oh yeah I will be doing the typical photos as I go show with this project as well. Probably starting next week. Should be a pretty big before and after senario lol.

[welder]

John, I'm all for the SS hardware BUT the SS u-bolts I don't know about . Make sure they have the tensile strength needed.

[Chaps]

Properly galvanized steel fasteners stay rust free for a long, long time. Most trailers use zinc plated bolts that rust pretty quickly even though the manufacturers falsely pitch them as galvanized. SS would be an overkill costwise for an old trailer IMO. Here is a source I've used for trailer parts that has some reasonable pricing http://www.championtrailers.com/SS_BOLTS_UBOLTS.HTM

[Sculpin]

Properly galvanized steel fasteners stay rust free for a long, long time. Most trailers use zinc plated bolts that rust pretty quickly even though the manufacturers falsely pitch them as galvanized. SS would be an overkill costwise for an old trailer IMO. Here is a source I've used for trailer parts that has some reasonable pricing http://www.championtrailers.com/SS_BOLTS_UBOLTS.HTM

Thanks for the link Chaps. The trailer isn't super old I think it's 2005. I would never do anything overkill lol.......

[Chaps]

Properly galvanized steel fasteners stay rust free for a long, long time. Most trailers use zinc plated bolts that rust pretty quickly even though the manufacturers falsely pitch them as galvanized. SS would be an overkill costwise for an old trailer IMO. Here is a source I've used for trailer parts that has some reasonable pricing http://www.championtrailers.com/SS_BOLTS_UBOLTS.HTM

Thanks for the link Chaps. The trailer isn't super old I think it's 2005. I would never do anything overkill lol.......

Yeah, spoken like a rich Canadian!!

[dawgaholic]

Agreed, we sourced the rod for our U's at Home Depot, where they did everything but install them for us.

When we disassembled our trailer down to the frame, we discovered that the 30 year old gal needed serious rebuilding, just short of seeing the recyclers. We salvaged what we could and went total tubular as my Brother has experience with welding and working with the stuff. Source the bunks from West Marine (I think), added a suspension, light kit, paint..$400 and some change, if that. Something I wished I had considered though was visiting local firehouses to ask about their damaged firehoses. Excellent, durable material to use as bunk covering!

[Sculpin]

I think I will go with a good grade galvanized for the straight bolts and stainless on the u bolts. The big thing for me is getting rid of the wood on the bunks. They are covered with slick bunk material so the wood is not in direct contact with the boat. I just don't like the wood. I have some 6" aluminum channel that I'm going to put some 3/4" UHMW on and use these as bunks.

The other big one and most important is the brakes. They are hydraulic disc and can be pretty expensive to repair or replace. I know one of the cylinders is in really bad shape. I'll see when I get it all ripped apart.

[Sculpin]

I made up some screw jacks for the rear of the boat that weren't enough to lift it by themselves and had to use a bottle jack to help out.



I welded a lifting lug to the shed frame and used a chain come along to lift up the bow.



I then was able to pull out the trailer with no fuss no muss. I put some blocking under the bow as to not have it under static load.



I'm going to replace the wooden bunks with some aluminum channel with UHMW strips countersunk onto them. I want to replace alot of the bolts as well. The brakes are the big one and need checking and possibly redoing.

I'll keep posting up pic's of the progress over the next couple of days. I hope to work on it all weekend.

Cheers,
John

[goatram]

John
You proved the strength of your building. The boat stands look good as well. Hopefully the fishing is good tomorrow morning. Going to Vance's house for a minne Lead Pour today. Will stand by and read your updates

[Sculpin]

So from reading the black and red site goatram I understand you are experienced in electric over hydraulic brakes systems. I am starting to look in this direction. The existing brakes are Tie down. I am seriously looking into this option. Tie down doesn't offer a system for this. Suggestions I may ask

[Sabs28]

Me personally, I would use Kodiak disc brakes & a Dexter Actuator. Kodiak makes multiple sets depending on how much corrosion resistance you want. Were you are on the left coast, I think the closest & cheapest place to get them is Pacific Trailers. Pacific Trailers also sells the Dexter EOH Actuator. I plan on setting up my next trailer with this set-up. Not a big fan of surge brakes.



http://www.pacifictrailers.com/electric ... actuators/


http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Kodiak-Trailer-Brakes/

[goatram]

John
I don't use them yet. Ted's Pictures and components that he got from easternmarine.com Was the best I found last year. Get the 1000psi Actuator. Last year I did a "Tim Allen" and recommended the 1600 psi "Bigger" one, So far it has worked and he has not blown out any of his Calipers. He also claims that the set up has already saved his a$$ last year on his Canadian trip. Someone cut him off and he had to lock it up.

I found the Spare tire mount that works great to keep all of the Components close and out of the weather.

I am lazy plus it is not my thread so Check here
http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/washin ... rakes.html

[goatram]

PS the Fish Trip yesterday was a bust; one shaker was all we got. Did play with the HDS screens and radar Great but with one Drawback. You have to go in and add your overlay to each of the screens that you will use. Confusing at first as well as frustrating. Used 17.9 gallons of premium at $4.09 gallon.

[Sabs28]

From what I have seen the only disc brake manufacturers that can handle 1600 psi are Dexter, UFP & Kodiak. All the other manufacturers are 1200 psi & below. Kodiak is the only company that claims "All Stainless" components, I am not sure of what "Grade" Stainless it is.

[goatram]

I have Tie-down Brakes on all four wheels. I have had to replace the calipers twice first time under warranty, the last time I got a set of NAPA Calipers for a 89 Chevy Caviler. Price was the thing $20 instead of the $60 for Tie-downs. Been on a year now and they still work well. The Tie-down calipers would seize in a year or less.

[Sculpin]

I have Tiedowns as well. I was looking at the new G5 replacement kit. I may just keep the surge system as it's not that bad.

I have another surprise project in the works so I'm kind of scrambling for funds to do the trailer

[goatram]

Standing by awaiting the news.

20 March I will have the right hip cut.

[JETTYWOLF]

-we can re-build this ole man, faster, stronger...a better fisherman. (we hope)

[goatram]

I wish it was all done. $24 Million counting for inflation not 6I Million.

[Sculpin]

Well she's in pretty bad shape. I have done some minor stuff to her over the years like brake pad's, caliper seals, tires, etc. and has lasted me since I have owned it. Time and salt has taken it's toll and it is time to rebuild her.





Got her down to the spindles now.



Guess what I'm doing all weekend!

[Sabs28]

Don't forget a new bow roller....

[Sculpin]

Don't forget a new bow roller....

Thanks for noticing that Sabs28. I intend to replace the existing soft rubber one for one those newer "hull saver" type hard poly ones. I'm replacing almost everysingle bolt as well. I'm also replacing the strap and hook on the winch. The winch itself is in good condition and just needs some cosmetic TLC. I am hoping the brake actuator is still working properly and will test it out after all the new brakes are installed.

Cheers,
John

[Sabs28]

I replaced mine with the Yellow bow roller, I think it was made by "Hull Saver". The one that came with the trailer would leave black skid marks on my white hull. The Yellow one doesn't leave skid marks. Seems to be a denser material also. I think I paid $20 for it, wasn't much.

[Sculpin]

What a great way to spend a rainy windy Saturday!

Started to get things back together now.



I taped off the spindles, wire wheeled the torque flex arms (they are cast metal), and applied a coat of dull zinc rich primer and a top coat of bright zinc rich primer to them as there was nothing on them before. I started replacing quite a few u-bolts and other bolts as well.



I'm going all new LED's this go around. I have been pissing around with lights a couple of times since I owned this trailer and I said screw it. LED's are like double the price but they are also kind of double sealed. Apparently they last way longer and they are way brighter!



I'm into this rebuild for a bit of coin now but still way cheaper than buying a new trailer. I hope to get another 5 years at least out of her. Here is a shot of the new brake/hub assemblies, new brake line kit, and all the bolts. That's the old wiring in the shot as well.