Window gasket/moulding

[Gypseas]

I got two new windows for the back of the cabin and having a beachofatime installing the glass in the moulding/gasket.

Anybody with some experience willing to share a tip or two or three?


Cheers

here's the moulding profile

[Chaps]

its been awhile since I've done one, put the moulding on the glass, put a small diameter cord around the window in the outside moulding groove bringing the ends together in the middle of the window at the bottom, push the window moulding into the bottom of the cut-out as far as possible with the cord ends through the opening, as you pull the cord out it will roll the rubber lip over the edge of the cutout. Make sure the rubber is warm and lubed up with dishsoap. Helps to have a suction cup glass gripper so you can control the window. Bet you could find a u-tube video of someone installing an older windshield, similar process . . .

[kmorin]

gypseas, I'll 2x Chaps, remarks, and add my own variations to the same overall method.

First that rubber extrusion has an external key that has to be put in to lock the glass to the cabin side. We use the mounting extrusion with a built-in key strip that an oversized flap so its quicker and easier to install.

With that type, we first mount the rubber to the window opening dry, and cut the length about 1/2 long. Now you have to take into account if you have small or large radius corners. I think a 5" diameter is about what we used for that size? But It could have been as large as 7" I don't recall exactly. I'll say 5" dia , if you used a 4" or 3" the rubber doesn't turn without wrinkles that leak or look sloppy so I think that test is first making sure the extrusion will fit without glass.

The overlong piece of rubber is butted at the 6:00 location or the 12:00 location if under an overhanging cabin top.

We used lanolin hand cleaner as our lube since it was stiff and wouldn't run, stayed in the glass track and eventually washed out. Put a lining of hand cleaner (not Orange/w/Grit!!!) cream/greasy type into the glass track. Then install the rubber in the metal, then beginning on the bottom sill use a small plastic or hardwood (we use oak) wedges begin to lift the outer rubber lip over the outside of the glass.

Working bottom up allowed the glass to being sitting on the sill sooner than top down. I think we usually worked toward the butt joint in the molding. We had to work both directions together and keep the glass between the two sets of hands. The glass would slowly slip into the window opening as the wedges greased with hand cleaner were worked along the rubber edge and the glass.

Once the glass is 'popped' in it is still loose so the locking key strip has to be installed an we used the same exact method. There was a tool to install the key provided. It was like a file handle with a round rod 3"long sticking out. At the end of the rod was an 'eye' shaped opening that was supposed to slide inside the key's grove allowing the key strip/locking strip to be fed into the track in the rubber mounting extrusion shown at the bottom of your photograph.

One or two of the guys seemed to use the tool, most of use used the wedges and more hand cleaner.

When the window was installed usually the hand cleaner was wiped away with Windex and then acetone at the joint so a sealant could be added to that butt joint.

Hope this variation one Chaps' method helps.

cheers,
Kevin Morin

[Gypseas]

Thank you for the help guys!
Mission accomplished