Re: Double Eagle Build
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 6:33 am
Hi Kevin - I was just reviewing your box keel images from page 1 and had a couple of questions, if you have time to indulge me?
I will likely finish the outside keel seam weld this weekend, and then the outside chines soon as well.
I have read about testing welds having one person using soapy water on one side, while a second person holds an air hose along the other side of seam. Is this an acceptable method, or should I consider flipping the boat back over and putting a couple of inches of water in the inside (I imagine this would create less pressure than a boat floating / displacing water, but would it be better than teh air method?? I could rotate the boat so the chines were down oen at a time, and test them the same way as well....
I ask about testing for watertightness as I imagine the next step for me will be to start to mock upo the box keel (with large cardboard type sheets that came with aluminum sheet)?
In your drawings on page 1, the widest point of box keel is obviously wider than the 3"- 4" pipe shown, but wht would be your min / max recommendations for width, at the widest point?
As well, I get that you professionally build workboats for guys who use them alot and rely on them and thuus the focus on things like mechanical tube with the SS tapered bearing insert, precision tube machining, etc.
But, my plans just call for 2" schedule 80 pipe for the strut bearing holder and 1 3/4" OD tube for shaft log (min wall thickness 3/16"), as they show a cutout before prop, and therefore a separate strut.
I was thinking of using the 2" schd 80 pipe for a continuous shaft log/ bearing holder like you show, but simply pressing in the nylon type bearing in the end of the pipe, per the plans. The Id of the sched 80 pipe is juts under 2" and the OD of nylon bearing is 2" so it may take a bit of machining / honing to fit it.
I realize that this is not as good as teh way you do it, but this is a personal boat that will see less than a hundered hours a year. Is that a reasonable approach, following the specs on plans?
I will likely finish the outside keel seam weld this weekend, and then the outside chines soon as well.
I have read about testing welds having one person using soapy water on one side, while a second person holds an air hose along the other side of seam. Is this an acceptable method, or should I consider flipping the boat back over and putting a couple of inches of water in the inside (I imagine this would create less pressure than a boat floating / displacing water, but would it be better than teh air method?? I could rotate the boat so the chines were down oen at a time, and test them the same way as well....
I ask about testing for watertightness as I imagine the next step for me will be to start to mock upo the box keel (with large cardboard type sheets that came with aluminum sheet)?
In your drawings on page 1, the widest point of box keel is obviously wider than the 3"- 4" pipe shown, but wht would be your min / max recommendations for width, at the widest point?
As well, I get that you professionally build workboats for guys who use them alot and rely on them and thuus the focus on things like mechanical tube with the SS tapered bearing insert, precision tube machining, etc.
But, my plans just call for 2" schedule 80 pipe for the strut bearing holder and 1 3/4" OD tube for shaft log (min wall thickness 3/16"), as they show a cutout before prop, and therefore a separate strut.
I was thinking of using the 2" schd 80 pipe for a continuous shaft log/ bearing holder like you show, but simply pressing in the nylon type bearing in the end of the pipe, per the plans. The Id of the sched 80 pipe is juts under 2" and the OD of nylon bearing is 2" so it may take a bit of machining / honing to fit it.
I realize that this is not as good as teh way you do it, but this is a personal boat that will see less than a hundered hours a year. Is that a reasonable approach, following the specs on plans?