A new one...

[JETTYWOLF]

Was Q & A'd by another individual yesterday that was all full of aluminum boat answers.

But this is a new "comparison" to me...

"ya know them aluminum boats will get a corosion on them...it'll protect the aluminum. Sort of like blueing a gun barrel...ya know blueing a steel gun is just a way of coroding it, so's it'll not rust. Did ya know that?
Yeah, these aluminum boats sure are tough........
You ain't from around here are ya? Where's ya from, boy?"

I was about to really go postal on this guy. But held my composure, barely.

Blueing like a gun barrel...anyone up for it???

Jay, have ya thought about Bueing the Rock Salt.....they shoot Rock salt out of shot guns during certain weddings. Yeah there ya go.

[AlloyToy]

Alum forms an oxidation layer on it's self as a protectant or tough skin............

[peterbo3]

You ain't from around here are ya? Where's ya from, boy?"

Hi Dave,
Around here, anyone under 90 who calls me "boy" is going to get a mouthful back. And damn quick too! :shock: :shock: :shock:

[kmorin]

Jettywolf,

Aluminum will oxidize so well that it happens in about 2-3 seconds from the time 'bare' aluminum is exposed to air. If you use a knife or an awl to scratch marine alloys the groove will form oxide in that time. If you etch aluminum with acid and let it dry or rinse the acid with water and let that dry, even the all bare metal exposed by the acid's removal of the oxide layer- will have a new oxide layer in seconds.

In fact, that oxide is the main property that allows us all to have aluminum boats. Without aluminum's oxide layer the metal is way to reactive to use even the alloys wouldn't be possible.

Steel's most common oxide, called rust by most (and probably more colorful sailor-like terms by the Jettywolf if truth were known) forms in the same way on steel but more slowly. If you put bluing onto steel it displaces the rust- iron oxide- with a very similar oxide but this one is black and is called magnetite and its bonded to the steel but will still rust- as everyone knows whose rifle has been put up after laying out in the dew on a morning hunt and wasn't oiled up.

Rust will keep combining with the steel and eventually eat up the entire piece of steel or steel boat- if allowed to get started and keep going unchecked. Magnetite won't do that so in a sense it helps to prevent rust- its still a surface corrosion of the steel I guess.

Aluminum oxide is self healing and WILL NOT propagate, penetrate or keep reacting deeper into the metal; it is self limiting at 2-3 mills. Bluing stops the rust for steel and is a coating that limits deterioration. Aluminum oxide works in the same general way but for different chemical reasons.

So your 'older individual' was giving his take on a sort of true comparison that is; aluminum oxide is a corrosion that stops further corrosion and bluing is a chemically induced reaction with the surface of steel that could be called corrosion in a sense, and it too stops the underlying parent metal from further deterioration or slows red rust dramatically.

We might say "aluminum bluing" is called anodizing and is an electroplated/chemically washed substitute for the more fragile aluminum oxide. [rough comparison]

Jetty, if Jay were going to paint the Rock Salt to look like a Cigarette or a Fountaine he'd etch with acid, rinse with water and while wet use a "liquid anodizing" (alodyne) to create a chromium oxide on the aluminum surface because it holds paint ten times better than aluminum oxide. Then primer and all those layers of top coat and bikini freighter graphics, but all of this would be based on a coating that is bonded to the metal chemically- not just 'sticking like paint' physically or mechanically.

I guess the idea that aluminum oxide is a sort of corrosion isn't all that far fetched its just a way of using the term 'corroded/corrosion/corrode' in a sense not as commonly thought about. But overall its not too far off.

We're proud of you JettyWolf for not reading this pedestrian harbor commentator his last rights and having him walk the plank, so to speak.

cheers,

[JETTYWOLF]

I get the theory's of aluminum. Just thought the blueing of steel comparison was a bit s-t-r-e-t-c-h-i-n-g it.

Heck, my dad & I built a replica flint lock rifle years and years ago, we "browned" the barrel and steel pieces.

Now that's a new color we haven't explored yet.

Antique brown....perfect color for a "waste tank-suck out" marina boat.

Yeah, hopefully I can be witness to some seriously wacky commentary, if I can make it to The Big Miami Show, and see Jay and fellow RockSalters in February. It should be like a crowded boat ramp oin a July 4th weekend.
:shock: :shock:

C'Cmon,

[Jay Perrotta]

Kevin gave the answer for oxide but does anyone know what "blueing" consists of?

Is is a natural patina?

Is it a coating?

Another question that I've never found info on and thought about as far as a "coating" is concerned is rubberized armoring - like on a pair of binoculars. Wouldn't that be pretty useful on a "T-Top" in northern climes?

The new playground equipment is metal (can't tell if its aluminum or steel) that has been "dipped" into a semi-hard coating - any thoughts?

Thanks!

[Shark Bait]

Jetty & Jay: When Steve Daigle built my boat he “strongly” suggested I “consider” painting the boat. A lot of his customers have their boats painted and they really do look sharp – especially when they are new. In fact his boats look good for many years because he has the equipment (huge, dedicated paint shop) and the personnel to do the job right.

But I’m into minimum maintenance and like the look of an all aluminum boat. I got my fill of waxing gelcoat and refinishing teak when I had a glass boat in Miami. An unpainted, natural aluminum boat looks way cool. Not worried about surface corrosion – it adds a nice patina to the aluminum.

SB

[welder]

Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4), the black oxide of iron, which occupies the same volume as normal iron. Black oxide provides minimal protection against corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action.

In contrast, rust, the red oxide of iron (Fe2O3), does not occupy the same volume as iron, thereby causing the typical reddish rusting away of iron. Both "cold" and "hot" oxidizing processes are called bluing, but only the "hot" process provides any significant rust and corrosion resistance, and then only when also treated with an oiled coating.

[JETTYWOLF]

Nice cut and paste Welder....

I like the rubberization, Jay.

There would be many uses for that, as long as there's no way it can be compromised.

I have a digital dive camera, inwhich I take all my photos with on the boat.
It has a rubber coating on it, is water proof to 100 feet and is super durable.

I can imagine rails, handles, and especially areas such as inside an anchor well being coated. Because of rattling anchors and chain.

Add that to the inside of the RS's anchor well and behind the console as a floor matt, and anywhere someone could bang themselves, and instead of Everglades getting "innovation awards" for fruit-loopy bells and whistles, like sliding windshield's and PFD netting, and electric seat warmers, you'll get them for genuine common sense...as in keeping with the Aluminum alloy boat theme.