24' DYI alloy remodel

Mods and custom builds
kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#376

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, butting to 16" pieces and welding to a 32" wide piece is doable, since its flat in use you could always use a hammer (dead blow or ball peen) to flatten it when you were done if the seam were too distorted to suit.

I use a slightly down hill weld and try to get as must reach as possible, I use a drag or machine "type" bead -but of course leading the bead with the gas and wire. I'd do shallow bevels on each side, and weld as much as you can in one fast pass, turn that over and do the other side so work as much opposed to one bead as another can be. I'd suggest a strong back to hold the plate flat when you tack, dress the tacks and go for it.

If there's too much cup/hump/wave to the finished piece then put on welding table (heavy steel surface) and use the dead blow to flatten. My method relies on speed, small hot narrow bead and long fast passes to keep from heating as much as possible then immediately turning over to back weld what was just put in on the first side, I'd wait for them to cool to the touch and do the other welds the same, cutting out starts and stops as they will be tied in.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#377

Post by Tfitz »

They warped more than I expected but I was able to beat them pretty straight. I tried to grind off one weld to make the plate flush but made the mistake of giving it a few more smacks with the hammer for a little more tuning and then I could see a seem crack where I removed the weld developing. So I rewelded and I'm leaving the weld show this time.
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Welded in a perimeter around the floor support structure at the same angle as the hull to give me something to screw the siding too. Really makes it look strong
Welded in a perimeter around the floor support structure at the same angle as the hull to give me something to screw the siding too. Really makes it look strong
The 1/2 pipe is not welded in yet only fitted. I'm going to continouse weld it down both sides so it should look nice next to the clear door
The 1/2 pipe is not welded in yet only fitted. I'm going to continouse weld it down both sides so it should look nice next to the clear door
I'm adding a stiffener to the center of the door way. This left over half pipe hull stiffener will work perfect and give me a wire chase for a LED cockpit flood light and radio speaker wire.
I'm adding a stiffener to the center of the door way. This left over half pipe hull stiffener will work perfect and give me a wire chase for a LED cockpit flood light and radio speaker wire.
kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#378

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, the butt plate welds have to be done at the speed that does not leave any crown- to speak of... so.. that means (sorry to harp) your practice is inadequate. You needed to travel fast enough to leave the bead all but flush other wise, the crown will contract and pull the sheet into the V shown. The other thing not shown is the side to side welds? It's not shown, but may have been true that you did one weld then 'backed' it , then another and so forth. The idea being to counter the contraction with the opposite weld?

Weld looks pretty good but the speed is too slow, need to get moving a bit more to leave that weld nearly flush and still fill a 3/32" V. That is one reason I tilt the panels, downhand is faster as gravity is on your side.

I'd say all weld dressing began AFTER all welding and all cooling AND all hammering. Weld dressing, sanding flush, removes the crown and that allows some stress cracking so in the future if you have to 'grow' a panel, do all the welding, then all the hammering and finally all the dressing so the weld crown is involved to reinforce the hammering.

Butting plates with MIG is a pain, which is why there is TIG.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#379

Post by Tfitz »

I DID alternate welding one side then the other just like you said. And I even thought as I was welding I could go faster and longer than I was, no problem. But you never TOLD me to weld them without a crown! I could have done that!! I have one more to do later this week so I will give the crownless method a try. So if I can weld 4' in one shot hot, fast and crownless should I do it? Or is it better to alternate welding on one side then the other 1' at a time? They do seem to beat down pretty flat but no where near as nice as new
kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#380

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, the plate heats up, then expands with the hot metal addition (by the arc ) then it cools a bit more than when it expanded due to the metal above the surface- the crown. Sorry not to mention that. The 3/16" plate is double beveled so the weld is really small - 3/32" per side and as little crown as you can leave, while still running hot enough to fuse the lead edge of the bead AND fill 'just over full'.

I've not tried 4' in one pass of this type joint, but I've done 12" to 18" passes before. This method relies on the hammer to flatten any residual warping and the hammer skills are as critical as the welding. The reason is almost anything but lead or dead blow will mar the surface in a small location (dimple) and that is hard to clean up. Anyway, the backing clamp pieces should reach accross the weld, like a backing bar. The reason is that close up backing bars (flat surface ) would also hold the material flat side to side AND lengthwise during the cooling of the first pass, making the contraction minimal. Hopefully.

I'd suggest some practice on off cut strips so the bead is uniform and a little flatter to the surface, not the easiest weld to do so a little practice could help the final results' quality. I'd let the bead cool on one side before removing the backers/stiffeners/flattening pieces clamp (or tacked) on so the contraction period (cooling) was done before the piece was release from the restraints.

Are these for floor/deck panels to go on the seating framed areas?

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#381

Post by Tfitz »

Yes all of the 3/16" panels will be bolted down to the frame. I'm going to leave the weld show. I don't want stress cracks showing later from walking on it. I will check for dimpling. I was beating pretty hard on it.
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#382

Post by Tfitz »

Life has been getting in the way of my boat project. First I had to start back to a normal 40hr work week. Then I had to fix the brakes on my truck, then the dish washer broke. Boat work had the lowest priority but I did manage to get the floor plates cut and fitted. The last sheet butt weld went really well. Once Kmorin told me my welds were suppose to have no crown, the joint warped very little. About 30 sec of hammer work and I had a flat floor plate! I also welded shorter 8-10" welds and let it cool between back stepping, opposite side, welds. Tomorrow I plan to unwind the shift and steering cables off the engine and see if they will be long enough for the right hand steering idea and then begin the dash demo / rebuild. The 4000 BTU Planar, diesel, cabin heater I ordered, arrived today so I can begin to look at space requirements for that as well. I need to start thinking about electrical components too. Kevin if you have any suggestions about wiring methods and components I could use them. I was just reading about a device that takes isolated batteries and ties them together if a charging condition exists. Sounds like a good idea to me. That saves me from remembering to manually switch and combine both batteries before making a long motoring run.
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kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#383

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, glad your decking/flooring/cabin sole project is moving along.

The crown of the weld above the cross section surface of the plane of the two plates being butted is the primary area of 'shrinkage'/contraction/shortening that pulls on the two plates to cup the weld area or to pull down the weld. One reason to go back and forth side to side is to balance this weld contraction and let the two forces fight one another AND the idea of keeping the crown down reduces how much force there is to pull.

The welds could be a little more uniform, the drag (type) welds (I know the term drag implies the cup pulling the weld which we don't do) are more useful in that patterned welds for butt joints. However to get the uniform an even pull with the left had is required and that does take many hours or practice to get an even speed/rate of travel pull, it looks like your weld has a little bit of a speed up/slow down and that might come from your hand on the metal (prop/guide/cup base) is moving a little irregularly. More practice but then the house hold priorities always compete with welding practice - as is well known.

Wiring wise, I use a method that allows almost all wiring to be done on the work bench next to the boat, but I'm often told its too much work! I typically use it for 1200 point PLC and industrial UL508A panels, as well as the countless MCC's and other controls I made, but I still hear most electricians and countless instrument techs say its not worth the trouble. I no longer argue the point, but having bid industrial installs, terminations, FCO's and startups- well I've taken that work from lots of major firms who 'do it the hard way'!

However the method, while simple is most often foreign to even trained (not yacht builders' electricians how are trained in this method) electrical people, so I'll offer a short description in case you want to explore it- which given your trade background- I'm doubting !!!

The idea is simply that any boat loom of wires is made up a lengths that can be measured and defined therefore the entire loom can be measured, cut, layed out and wrapped in cover/twisted wrap/sheathing before its put into the boat, then each end will terminate on the stud (of left fly end) it is intended and all the eyelets will be pre installed and shrink wrapped before the bundle leaves the table - I use sheets of ply with a block screwed to the back to make the temp work table on saw horses.

I mostly use CAD to layout the entire loom of wire on roll plot paper now days... but it can be done by hand. That way, CAD, the wires are all color code to size, location where the branches are taken off, and the branch ties are based to allow a given conductor to exit the main loom.

The key to measuring is to define each change in direction, just like measuring centerline of a pipe/tube/EMT/rigid, then getting 'stub end' or eyelet end fittings distances or stud dimensions for the two end lines. By making any given turn of the wire track/trace/path/conduit/loom/route into a plane intersection you can use any given point as a reference ON A STRAIGHT LINE! That is the key to making a loom or wire bundle off the boat... do it like its a straight line, with one common center or run 'milestone' and all the references of the changes of centerline direction as grid lines along the single centerline path.

I was paying wages to do this work most times, and when I built boats and read about the method I found out I had to lead the process myself in order to get it done correctly. The guys I hired just refused to do the work correctly unless lead- so I did and it worked well, I was able to cut the electrical install down by 6x's the man hours and the job was nicer looking too.

But not paying wages I can understand you may not be attracted to a method with so much planning as you tend to shoot from the hip.

Another wiring item that even major name builders don't seem to realize (or agree with) : Metal boats should have on single bond to the hull from both the DC neg AND the AC 'ground' and not be isolated from the hull. This is not my idea, this is published by the ABYC in their electrical standards so it carries some real boating industry credibility. Now, I do realize the ABYC's docs are behind an expensive pay wall, and few want to pay to reach these standards, but... none-the-less a single cable from the engine's NEG starter terminal to a main hull longitudinal is A correct way to bond the DC neg to the hull. This could also be done from the DC Neg on the battery switch or the DC connection to the battery itself but his latter sometimes makes a paint due to battery location.

Battery switches should be able to provide single or double batter power for starting, (Batt. Selector) and to isolate the entire electrical system from the distribution blocks (DC + and DC-) with the exception of an auto bilge pump that can be wired around the selector switch ( but if a pump is wired direct (?) it should have the power leg fused separately/singly/one fuse per pump) to insure that a switch failure in the bilge will not drain the battery through the bilge water into the hull's surface.

Lots of devices out there today to enhance battery usefulness and serviceability, l'm not even remotely up to speed on them so can't remark.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#384

Post by Tfitz »

My cables and engine wiring harness are long enough and should work well for the RH steering location. It took me several evenings of holding up the steering wheel, instrument panel, shift control and chart plotter screen to get a good feel for how the dash should go together. I now have a plan formulated over multipal bottles of beer and I think its going to look muscle car cool! I won't even attempt to describe the plan but it will include grab bars, glove box, arm rest at the shift control and a 3 vent defroster duct. Plus several dedicated spots for drink holders and a flat spot for the chart plotter screen. In the photo I fitted a bent pipe with side plates at each end. This will be the new "backbone" of my dash idea. I'm going to leave as much of the old dash in as possible where it fits into my plan but the look will change drastically and look very busy and open on the underside and hopefully be very functional. I only want to do this once so if you have any good ideas I would like to hear them now. I don't think I will be usuing your precut wiring methods. Wiring is my trade and something I really can do on the fly so no sense to starting carful planning at this point in the project.
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kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#385

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, what happens to the port side bulkhead with the original control station cutouts? Just make a replacement to the most part? I will be interesting to see the control station on the starboard side take shape, not sure on the pipe being the backbone... that is the actual meaning of that phrase or idea but the rolled/bent/formed pipe is a nice looking curved approximation of the shape there.

I didn't think you pay much attention to my wiring methods just mentioned them for reader's interest as to how its done on planned boats. No suggestions unless I can see something to discuss, so without sketches its hard to find any place to begin.

We'll all be interested in seeing how the layout and fit goes. I do recall the extreme problems during the one or two years I did smaller scale work with MIG instead of TIG. Nobody tries to do refined work with MIG after the 1st or latest 2nd job! So, depending on the shapes, I'd suggest cut outs, face frames, bezels or whatever term you use for the various mounted-in instruments and tacking that all up- then beer-bribing your TIG wielding friend to seam up the frames. But since I haven't a clue about what they look like, face frames and mounts' cutouts, that is just from my past experience- your design being unknown means that the utility of the type of welding is not easy to predict either.

Muscle car inspired instrument mounts.

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This console's instruments (outboard) mount in these retro-looking, sliced-pipe-with-recessed-donuts housings and shrouds. The idea was to give some retro style to the instrument displays and to shield them some what from the weather. Since the steering was to mount in the top center of this light wt panel, there's an H of structural angle and T bar behind - the round headed bolts hold that stiffener to the front panel and the steering pump (old Hynautic adapted to the outboard) is bolted to the support frame underneath. Typical outboard style shift throttle but base mounting version to the right of the console with a 'box' to shroud the cables inside the console's base cabinet.

All the pipe work was TIG work not very easy in MIG given its diameter and all the rest was mostly TIG too, I think there's MIG beads round the window frame plate that holds the rubber for the glass mount?

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(Last Pic, above) The console mounted and painted in this remodeled net skiff. Looks like there was a little electrical panel to the port side that was added - if I remember (?) the SS wheel was a bit large so the panel's side mount box was added to get the key switch? outside the wheel's profile? I'm not sure its been more than two days so I'm vague on that detail!

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#386

Post by Tfitz »

That is some beautiful work you did! I left you with the wrong impression mine won't be that fancy. My instrument Panel will be a square hole cut in a flat panel just like the port side only set higher. Just under the backbone. The abandoned port side holes will get covered up by the glove box or cut out all together. I started to draw you a sketch but it's too hard for me to make it useful for you. I'm going to use your long box idea on the starboard side. Everything is going to be tight but I think it's going to work out one way or another
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#387

Post by Tfitz »

I like the way the dash is turning out. The shift control long box, instrument panel, and defroster duct are in. All that's left is the port side glove box. The new dash is functional in my view. The old dash couldn't even hold a pencil with out it rolling onto the floor. The new dash is like having a 5 gal bucket to dump "whatever" right in the most convienent place. That location /storage is valuable to me. Also the hump on the new dash will duct warm defroster air onto the three window panes at a direct angle. My fish finder / chart plotter will fit nice on the dash all the way starboard side. No wiring will be on the dash. The only cables will be for the chart plotter. I'm thinking I won't need a fan with the defroster air plumbed in. Steering wheel fits tight to the bottom of the instrument panel. I will need to do a little more fabrication to make it fit. The area below both sides of the dash gets cut out to open that area up for more leg room. The "backbone" pipe coamer is a good hand hold all the way across the dash top.
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Holes covered
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New instrument panel hole cut and back bone pipe and long box
New instrument panel hole cut and back bone pipe and long box
Defroster duct, dump bucket dash storage
Defroster duct, dump bucket dash storage
Future Glove box location
Future Glove box location
Instrument panel, long box, and defroster duct installed. There will be room in my long box stern facing panel for all the circuit breakers
Instrument panel, long box, and defroster duct installed. There will be room in my long box stern facing panel for all the circuit breakers
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#388

Post by Tfitz »

Original dash configuration
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kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#389

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, the before and after pic.s help give a reference to the new starboard side helm station.

One item to mention about leg room but not sure if the bulkhead shown is already spaced forward from your other cabin joinery? You can always make a box or protruding housing for the helm, that is; leave the bulkhead flat, and stick the helm out so it's closer to your chair and that way the feet can go against the bulkhead with more room under and forward of the wheel... just a thought- given how far you are in the design it may "knock over too may dominoes" to be worth considering. It's just a way to get the wheel itself closer to your sitting position if the bulkhead is left in tact?

Nice paint job on the original bulkhead!

If I understand the pics? some are clear others I'd have to spend more time inspecting, the pipe was used as a framing element and there are plates attached- and that is why you referred to the pipe as the backbone? So the pipe is a grip and a 'fiddle board' too? (fiddle boards are the little short rails and edges around the upper edges of flat living surfaces in boats, sometimes solid sometimes little railings with legs - as I understand the term)

Your controls may be higher than is totally comfortable up near the window line instead of lower, but since I'm not sure about the seat and head ht- that's all relative too. IF you use the helm pump 'protrusion' box idea then the helm could be up a bit as well, making the controls relatively lower than they appear?

But it does look like you've got good access for control cables and electrical too?

By now you've seen why lots of builders will say the cabin and helm are as much work as a hull? Not totally true but the hours to cut and fit, work in smaller spaces compared to hanging 20-25' sheets in one piece.... the details take the time.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#390

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz,

here is a fiddle board/hand rail on the passenger side of a skiff cabin I did a few years ago.

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Being an outboard skiff there was one single round instrument, I put a pipe narcel on the slanted helm surface, this pump was recessed into that surface. The pipe is on legs to make it a primary grip as well as hold binoculars or coffee cups etc.

Below is the single instrument test fit, helm is welded but the window band is not installed.
Image

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Same rail from the helm view, just to show the doubler plate under the window band- to keep from having a tear-out point and stitch the load onto the side of the cabin.

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This shot is from outside the cabin on the same side as previously shown to make clear the dash/helm arrangements. The cutout for the base mounted controls is the rectangle to the outside of the helm pump recess in the middle of the flat helm mounting surface.

This is all TIG and why I say that is the easier way to do this scale of work, MIG requires lots of 'room to move' and then sanding and dressing so MIG adds hours to this type of metal work.

Most posted to show the railing that could fit on your port side (passenger side) flat surface as hand hold, not sure on seat height? so that may be too low to be comfortable?

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#391

Post by Tfitz »

I don't want to move the bulkhead. I plan to cut out the area where legs are under the dash because it will give allot more "headroom" in the berth / trunk cabin for sleeping too. The shift control is not in a ideal spot but will work fine. I wanted it a few inches forward but the shift arm movement wouldn't allow that so all things considered, it's ok where it is. The rounded smooth look matches the other coaming's on the boat and the defroster will be a great improvement.
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#392

Post by Tfitz »

Yea that looks great. Those photos help me with my ideas. I may do something similar. But I will be building a fiddle board with a glove box under neath. Now that the dash is mostly done, the jobs left will get easier in complexity from this point on.
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#393

Post by Tfitz »

Here's what I ended up doing on the glove box. I ran out of argon this morning so it's only tacked in place. The storage area is small but it will be a handy place for binoculars, tide book, gloves...ect. Maybe recessed cup holders too. The flat top of the glove box is really the most valuable thing to me. I wrapped the hand hole inside with a welded circle of 1/2" solid round stock to give a smooth edge and firm feel. Also added trim pipe over the cabin trunk door way to blunt the sharp edge. I'll get everything welded down tomorrow. I should have the steering wheel bracing fabricated and fitted today as well.
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kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#394

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, nice conversion of the former helm bulkhead's profile to include the stowage/glove box. I notice the finish is quite shiny, is this just the photo's lighting or did you get our the polishing buffing wheel?

Sure is bright finish. Not sure a passenger will be able to grip that fiddle board/railing but the pipe will make sure there's not impact injuries! I still advocate for the smaller grab rails, you'll already have one (steering wheel) so about the 2nd trip when you get home the 1st Mate will be explaining the fact of life to you: "Either I get a hand rail or I'm not going out with you and your ^%*%$!@&#!!-boat again!"

(Skipper's correct response: "Yes Ma'am!")

I see some progress on the starboard side in the edge of one of the port side photos? how's the work going over there? Any changes?

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#395

Post by Tfitz »

NO. There is GOOD hand grips on the port side dash! That half pipe you see I added around the fiddle board and door trim piece is really "G" rail. And the underside of that G rail is about a 3/4" very defined lip that makes an OUTSTANDING edge grip!! I did not want a taller pipe rail around my fiddle board to keep me farther from that useful flat surface. I think its way more user friendly not having that rail pressing into your forearm. And besides at the next level up above the fiddle board is the "backbone" pipe. Which is ANOTHER outstanding handhold!!! No excuses for busted lips on my dash!!!!! I'm a believer in Lots of grips in the right spots. I'm working on the starboard side now figuring out the steering wheel supports. Kinda hard to get allot done with no gas;( maybe Santa will bring me a TIG machine and another argon bottle this Christmas:)
kmorin
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#396

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, I've tried many times to find someway to photograph aluminum clearly; different colored lights, lights at different angles, tuning up the photos after they're taken.... and so on. The problem is that silver/gray/aluminum colors and shadow are not really all that exactly clear in a photo.

So I'm glad there are (various) grips for the passenger seat, but they're sure not obvious from that larger rounded section in view! I don't find the various short hand railings I've installed as anywhere someone would rest their forearms, leaning forward onto these surfaces would only be likely in a design where there was no helm at this bulkhead and crew would stand behind (close too) the bulkhead instead of sit. With a good seat (you're using) and a good foot support, most of the pitch up or down by the bow (main reason for hand rails forward of the seat) will be taken up in the legs and foot rest, I was just looking for the "grab rail" and now understand the hand can palm the G extrusion and can wrap over it to hold with the finger tips- making that edging secure for the rider.

Lots of helm pumps have a case with a bolt pattern on the back/under side and others have the bolts on the upper/front side so depending on which you have the bracket to hold the pump gets to be some detailed bench work. I've used a piece of concentric pipe (our LMS allows small cut off length sales of large diameter pipe like 5" or 6" or 8") bigger than the pump and if the bolts were on the top, I've put a donut on the pipe end, and drilled the bolt pattern on the top and raised the entire helm pump shaft out of the dash surface using hte pipe as the shroud/nacelle/housing. If the pump was bolted from the back/bottom- I've recessed the pipe segment with a welded on bottom plate to reverse the bolts, most often leaving the pumps forward or upper surface at or near the dash surface, although some have remained sticking out of the dash.

Depending on the helm pump shaft's (wheel location out of dash height) length and taper end from the pump body- I've had to make a four legged frame to stiffen the 1/8" or thinner dash material so that holding the wheel didn't flex the entire top of the dash where the helm pump was mounted. Other dashes, those that may have been parts of a thicker bulkhead or when I'd have to have many cutouts so I purposely made the entire plate thicker for strength; required less stiffening but they're all been different in some way due the different brands and number of instruments and cutouts.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
kmorin
Tfitz
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#397

Post by Tfitz »

I don't understand what a helm pump is?
kmorin
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Location: Kenai, Alaska

Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#398

Post by kmorin »

Tfitz, a helm pump is the hydraulic steering unit (at the helm with wheel attached as actuator) that moves oil down one or the other steering tubing line to the actuator at the outboard, outdrive, or rudder quandrant cylinder. Are you using cable?

http://www.go2marine.com/product/83070F ... h5273.html this is an example of a 'helm pump' since the rotary displacement, manual pump moves oil in two directions (some systems use glycol and water but still 'oil' for the fluid sense of this device).

http://www.go2marine.com/product/81264F ... pumps.html More of the same but for a bit more torque in steering.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai
kmorin
Tfitz
Donator '16
Posts: 343
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:08 pm
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#399

Post by Tfitz »

Ok I get it now. I've always had cable. I will reread your post again and try to understand what your point is. I got my steering wheel support fit tacked in last night. So weldout tonight then more photos. I will give you an edge grip photo too
Tfitz
Donator '16
Posts: 343
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:08 pm
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Re: 24' DYI alloy remodel

#400

Post by Tfitz »

To answer your comment about shiny aluminum photos. I do buff up the material before I weld it up because it's easier to clean after weld out. And the LED shop lights I installed not long ago are so bright(I love them) but they make the AL shine.
Hey Kevin I want to ask you a question... Long long time ago as I was building my floor pans out of smooth 3/16" aluminum. You made a comment "I'm glad you didn't get suckered into using diamond plate for your decking". Remember? Well what are your reasons for not liking diamond plate for cockpit decking?
Attachments
I like the looks and grip the "G" rail offers
I like the looks and grip the "G" rail offers
Port Side. Below the hand hole opening you can see the sharpie line area where I plan to remove to give more knee and trunk cabin sleeping room.
Port Side. Below the hand hole opening you can see the sharpie line area where I plan to remove to give more knee and trunk cabin sleeping room.
Starboard side. The same sharpie line defines the area I'm going to remove for the same reasons. Notice the round base plate for the steering wheel base.
Starboard side. The same sharpie line defines the area I'm going to remove for the same reasons. Notice the round base plate for the steering wheel base.
Underside of instrument panel dash showing 2"x3"x1/4" angle for steering wheel support structure.
Underside of instrument panel dash showing 2"x3"x1/4" angle for steering wheel support structure.
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Flappy disk is the same diameter as steering wheel base so this is how the steering wheel base will look on the base plate
Flappy disk is the same diameter as steering wheel base so this is how the steering wheel base will look on the base plate
I jumped the gun and ordered this SS infrared portable BBQ grill for my boat. I need to make a bracket that will attach onto the grill bottom then plug into my Beluga strong, multi-use, rod holder brackets! I can almost hear the fresh shrimp sizzling on the barbi now.
I jumped the gun and ordered this SS infrared portable BBQ grill for my boat. I need to make a bracket that will attach onto the grill bottom then plug into my Beluga strong, multi-use, rod holder brackets! I can almost hear the fresh shrimp sizzling on the barbi now.
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