Continuous Welds

[Bob5292]

I want to see what the experts have to say about using continuous welds on the stringers and lungs of an aluminum boat. I would assume a lot depends on the thickness and grade of aluminum your using. I understand that most builders do not use it because the continuos welds are much more likely to snap when the boat flexes. I am no expert but so far the only boat I have seen with these types of welds is Ironwood's boat and there are some on my Aerohead. I think Ironwoods bottom is 3/8 so it is probably more rigid than most boats even though it uses 5052. My Aerohead is all 5086 and the framing is 6061. So far everyone that has seen, it has made note that its not typical.

Bob

[Ironwoodtuna]

I want to see what the experts have to say about using continuous welds on the stringers and lungs of an aluminum boat. I would assume a lot depends on the thickness and grade of aluminum your using. I understand that most builders do not use it because the continuos welds are much more likely to snap when the boat flexes. I am no expert but so far the only boat I have seen with these types of welds is Ironwood's boat and there are some on my Aerohead. I think Ironwoods bottom is 3/8 so it is probably more rigid than most boats even though it uses 5052. My Aerohead is all 5086 and the framing is 6061. So far everyone that has seen, it has made note that its not typical.

Bob

Bob lets see some pictures of your Areohead. I see they went out of business, which boat do you have of theirs??? THey had a nice website and I thought they had potential... How long have you had your boat?
My 30' x 11' has 5/16" bottom plates and frames with 1/2" keel. Built like a tank, ZERO flex what so ever. Marty

[Bob5292]

I purchased the last 30'x10'6' they built. I bought the completed hull and had the electrical and engine work done by a local builder. There is one other 30' being used a salmon/tuna charter on the Washington coast, and I think they made about a dozen of the 2586 models. A couple of guys bought the plans/cut files and are building their own right now. After I bought it, I was contacted by several people that had put down deposits and ran into several suppliers that were left with big bills when Aerohead closed the doors. They made enough boats to get on credit right before they closed, so I managed to save some time buying the components that were already ordered for my boat.
Anyhow I planned on running a charter business and slightly underestimated what it would cost to complete the boat, partially because I thought I was getting the 2586. I just got a new job offer so moving to the coast 175 miles away isn't really in the books, so now I have a lot more boat than I need. The stringers are 6061 and the rest of the boat is made with 5086. The hull is 1/4 inch with an additional 1/4 inch beaching plate, the sides and cabin are 3/16". The windows and doors are Diamond SeaGlaze and she is powered by a pair of Volvo D4 225s with a full second station upstairs. It was nice being able to choose all of the components and have everything done exactly the way I wanted. They were selling them with a lifetime hull warranty and a 15 year warranty on the cabin. Now that's all useless, but I don't think I could break this thing if I tried.

After reading the reviews and talking to a few owners, I am very confident in the boat. I am heading up to the boat tomorrow to take some pictures, now that shes finally completed.

http://www.boats.com/news-reviews/artic ... ?lid=18971

http://www.airportjournals.com/Display. ... ID=0603007

http://www.prwebdirect.com/releases/200 ... 408116.htm









Here is a picture of one of thier 2586 models

[Chaps]

Those are very nice boats and I was surprised as heck that they folded their tent. In actuality many alloy builders have come and gone but their flame-out happened quicker than usual.

Will you be selling the 30? What would you like to get instead?

Oh, on the continuous welds - not really necessary and typically generates too much stress often resulting in unfair hulls.

[Charlie and Titan]

I thought most plate boats were welded using skip backstep to help spread the heat out? At least that was the impression I got from Stephen Pollard's book.

Charlie

[Bob5292]

I am going to try and get it posted for sale in the next week or two. I am considering a Pacific 26HT with a Suzuki 300. My only problem is that I spend a lot of time on Lake Washington doing the boat in happy hours, wake boarding, and spend about 30 days a year just cruising around with girls when I am not fishing. So something more comfort oriented is needed with comfortable seating for 10.
I would destroy a NON ALLOY boat in short order so that is out of the question. So I am considering a Triumph 235 with a Suzuki 300. I have owned a Triumph 17cc and just sold my Triumph 215 and feel they are the next best thing to aluminum. They get a lot of crap on the message boards but they are a very well thought out and extremely durable boat. I sold my 2006, 215 with 400 hours that was beached about 75 times and it looked like it just came off the showroom floor. Just like aluminum there is no waxing and they clean up very easily.

Bob

[welder]

Bob , a Pacific 26 Pilot house with twins might do ya. :) or the new SLEEPER TOP.

If want to list your boat here here on the site , there is a BOATS FOR SALE forum here just for that [ FREE ] for owners.

[welder]

In referance to the continuous welds , Back steping/welding and intermitant will pull the parent metal together and keep the heat to a minimun to make a nice tight seam.

But thats why I like my One oiece hull [ no seams ]

[Bob5292]

I like the idea of the pilot house, but I really feel it needs to be on a 9'6" boat. Its a pretty tight squeeze getting around that PH. I have always been a fan of the open layout you get with the HT. I'm one of the few people up here in washington that fishes a CC.

That Super Top would look really sharp with a forward leaning windshield.
HINT HINT!

Bob

[welder]

Bob , Pacific will build what ever you want..............

The 28 comes with a wider beam and I think ya can get 9'-6" or 10' in the 26.

[JETTYWOLF]

Ya took the words right outa my mouth Welder...That 28/29 foot CC is really killer.

Drop a lil eisenglass type curtins down around it in the bad weather and then have good weather open'ish too.



10 foot beam, and up to 500 HP in O/B's.....Giddy Up

If I was an offshore kinda guy, this would be the boat for me.

[Bob5292]

A 28'x8'6, HT may do the trick. I need to be 8'6 since I tow 10,000-15,000 miles a year and can't deal with the restrictions of being oversize. But I really like the 26 with the 300 Suzuki combo. I am not really a fan of duals and I like HP.

Bob

[welder]

Call Dan or Julie at pacific [ or go to the Manufactures forum and click on their link ] and get some more answers.

[Ironwoodtuna]

Bob5292,

So bob, how much are you looking for he vessel?
What condition is it in, completion wise?
What color is it?
What fuel capacity, etc., etc., etc.,

You should get it posted up here, I might be able to find you a buyer. Marty

[JETTYWOLF]

the 28 is a 10' beam....you'd have to stick to the 26' with a 8'6" beam then, in a BLM/Pacific boat.

That 28 gets makes me dizzy...I like it so much!
That step in the side reminds me of an Ocean Master 31, here in F'glass world Florida.

[welder]

Dave , did you almost say the F- word on this alloy site. :o

[Bob5292]

Ironwoodtuna:

It's just about done. We have a few odds and ends that are being finished. My builder is doing some independent contracting for local builders, so things are going a bit slow. I keep putting it off, but I am going to go up and take pictures ASAP.

It has a 190 gallon main tank located under the cabin that can be removed without any modifications to the boat. She was originally setup for the 190 gallon tank, plus an additional 90 gallon tank, and a 50 gallon fresh water tank to be located in the main hold. I figure 190 gallons is plenty for fishing on the West Coast considering the boat will get over 2mpg. So far my longest day was 120 miles RT with trolling. Doing away with the second tank has left a massive fish/storage hold that is about 9 feet wide 4 feet long and 4 feet deep.

Right now it is primed and unpainted. I would be nice to find a buyer and work with them on the final details. That way they can have some input on color schemes. The interior is complete with an aluminum dinette and galley. All of the interior surfaces came painted to a very high quality finish. There are no seat cushions, drivers seat, or doors on the cabinets. Those are all easy and can be completed in a few days since it's on a trailer. If I don't find a buyer right away, I will make those choices on my own so its ready to go and can be put right into service.

I haven't really thought about price too much. I will be at the Seattle boat show next week so I can talk to some brokers and speak in person to the local builders to find out where they are with price and lead time. So far all of builders I have talked to are over $300,000, for a base model 30x10'6" with dual Volvo Diesels. Also since the boat is made in the US, there are no Jones Act restrictions for commercial use. The fact that it is ready to go now and the buyer wont have to wait a year or more for an ordered boat, should go a long way too.

These are the numbers for a very similar boat with a pair of D4 260's on a boat that is over 1000lbs heavier. I figure mine should be pretty close.

Idle 1 RPM 700 MPH 4.37 GPH .58 MPG 7.53
Idle 2 RPM 700 MPH 5.98 GPH 1.02 MPG 5.86
RPM 1000 MPH 7.36 GPH 2.04 MPG 3.61
RPM 1500 MPH 10.47 GPH 5.79 MPG 1.81
RPM 2000 MPH 17.14 GPH 9.4 MPG 1.82
RPM 2500 MPH 31.05 GPH 13.6 MPG 2.28
RPM 2700 MPH 31.63 GPH 14.5 MPG 2.18
RPM 3000 MPH 36.69 GPH 17.2 MPG 2.13
RPM 3200 MPH 39.68 GPH 19.7 MPG 2.01
RPM 3300 MPH 40.48 GPH 21.9 MPG 1.82
RPM 3600 MPH 44.85 GPH 28.2 MPG 1.59

Bob