Wrong brush used on boat

[Douglasdzaster]

Hello everyone, I’m new here. Please forgive me if I’m posting in the wrong place.
I’m in a bit of a pickle. I’ve been sanding the floor in my 1983 Monark so I can prime and paint. I just learned I’ve been using the wrong wire brush. I didn’t know any better. Thankfully I haven’t gone very far. I’m freaking out now though. Is there anyway I can go back and remove any contamination I may have caused? First thing in the morning I’m going to get stainless steel brushes. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Please help.

[gandrfab]

Are we talking manark like
https://app.louisianasportsman.com/lpca ... &id=509815

or a monark like
https://boats-from-usa.com/monark/monark-24-45924

[Douglasdzaster]

A 16/52 jon boat.

[welder]

I'm sure Kevin will be along soon to share some know how on the situation, don't panic, it will not melt before your eyes.
A steel brush or wire wheel can leave steel particles in the Aluminum and make rust marks, a Stainless Steel brush should remove them if needed.
The rust marks will show up pretty quick and can be taken care of.

[Douglasdzaster]

I'm sure Kevin will be along soon to share some know how on the situation, don't panic, it will not melt before your eyes.
A steel brush or wire wheel can leave steel particles in the Aluminum and make rust marks, a Stainless Steel brush should remove them if needed.
The rust marks will show up pretty quick and can be taken care of.

Thanks for the piece of mind. I needed it.
I was back at it today with stainless steel now.

[kmorin]

doug,
The main problem with a steel alloy brush instead of a nickel steel alloy is the rustable steel particles off the wire, left behind. I don't think this will damage your boat permanently? I'd expect the areas to show rust (stain) if wetted where steel was left behind?

But the alloy of the wire is not my main concern. The diameter of the wire is pretty important on a thin skinned, press-formed boat. I regularly comment that even if the wire in the wheel is SS- it should be soft and 'soft' wire comes from a small wire diameter; not just alloy.

I'd recommend a twisted wire wheel as opposed to knotted wires and a maximum diameter of 0.014" wire. This will flex and bend and break off before is 'gouges' the aluminum. However, both steel and SS wire wheels are most commonly available with much larger dia. wire. These are much stiffer and will, on a regular 4" power grinder motor, gouge or even cut through thin aluminum hulls IF NOT used with great care.

I'd even suggest you consider 3M Scothbrite (tm) pads over a wire wheel if the wires are thicker than 0.014" dia.

Ss to the deposits you may have already done? rinse the area with water and vinegar solution to promote rust - and if you don't see any rust colored patches? great just go over lightly w the 3M pads or Weiler's ( https://shop.ram-tool.com/ramtool/en/US ... !plus60420 ) I don't know of any fine wire cup brushes? I'm sure they're out there- but not familiar- cup brushes with thick wire should be avoided!

Stripping paint chemically - now that the 'real deal' strippers are all off the market- is hard to do. So mechanical stripping becomes a 'go-too' method. If you use a wire wheel that is sufficiently soft - not to gouge the hull's panels- use a very light hand - don't push down hard. I'd say 3M pads were as helpful if not more so in this application?

One method that works pretty well while leaving the underlying metal in tact- soak saw dust or chain saw chips in various paint strippers in a peanut butter-like mixture. Let the plastic troweled on (thick) mixture sit then use the 3M pads BUT NOT on a grinder motor. Use a variable speed drill set to low speed and use a 3M pad on the drill. This will use the saw dust as an abrasive and help clean and loosen the paint- and even abrade the aluminum without gouging or thinning any locations. It vacuums up easily- is a more or less 'dry' paint stripper and the low rpms helps to reduce 'throwing' the particles too far from the work area. If you can find a really aggressive paint stripper- this method is extremely effective with minimal clean up and very nicely prepared metal surfaces. Methyl Chloride based paint strippers used to make this method a really fast and effective stripping procedure- but the gom'mint decided we were too dumb to use it; so its gone from commercial strippers - that I can find.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

[Douglasdzaster]

doug,
The main problem with a steel alloy brush instead of a nickel steel alloy is the rustable steel particles off the wire, left behind. I don't think this will damage your boat permanently? I'd expect the areas to show rust (stain) if wetted where steel was left behind?

But the alloy of the wire is not my main concern. The diameter of the wire is pretty important on a thin skinned, press-formed boat. I regularly comment that even if the wire in the wheel is SS- it should be soft and 'soft' wire comes from a small wire diameter; not just alloy.

I'd recommend a twisted wire wheel as opposed to knotted wires and a maximum diameter of 0.014" wire. This will flex and bend and break off before is 'gouges' the aluminum. However, both steel and SS wire wheels are most commonly available with much larger dia. wire. These are much stiffer and will, on a regular 4" power grinder motor, gouge or even cut through thin aluminum hulls IF NOT used with great care.

I'd even suggest you consider 3M Scothbrite (tm) pads over a wire wheel if the wires are thicker than 0.014" dia.

Ss to the deposits you may have already done? rinse the area with water and vinegar solution to promote rust - and if you don't see any rust colored patches? great just go over lightly w the 3M pads or Weiler's ( https://shop.ram-tool.com/ramtool/en/US ... !plus60420 ) I don't know of any fine wire cup brushes? I'm sure they're out there- but not familiar- cup brushes with thick wire should be avoided!

Stripping paint chemically - now that the 'real deal' strippers are all off the market- is hard to do. So mechanical stripping becomes a 'go-too' method. If you use a wire wheel that is sufficiently soft - not to gouge the hull's panels- use a very light hand - don't push down hard. I'd say 3M pads were as helpful if not more so in this application?

One method that works pretty well while leaving the underlying metal in tact- soak saw dust or chain saw chips in various paint strippers in a peanut butter-like mixture. Let the plastic troweled on (thick) mixture sit then use the 3M pads BUT NOT on a grinder motor. Use a variable speed drill set to low speed and use a 3M pad on the drill. This will use the saw dust as an abrasive and help clean and loosen the paint- and even abrade the aluminum without gouging or thinning any locations. It vacuums up easily- is a more or less 'dry' paint stripper and the low rpms helps to reduce 'throwing' the particles too far from the work area. If you can find a really aggressive paint stripper- this method is extremely effective with minimal clean up and very nicely prepared metal surfaces. Methyl Chloride based paint strippers used to make this method a really fast and effective stripping procedure- but the gom'mint decided we were too dumb to use it; so its gone from commercial strippers - that I can find.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

I'm sure Kevin will be along soon to share some know how on the situation, don't panic, it will not melt before your eyes.
A steel brush or wire wheel can leave steel particles in the Aluminum and make rust marks, a Stainless Steel brush should remove them if needed.
The rust marks will show up pretty quick and can be taken care of.

Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. I really appreciate it.
I’ll get some 3m pads before I start in the morning. I have two Nyalox brushes for my drill a medium and corse. They don’t do much until I get through the top coat.There’s a fairly thick black coating that I’m fighting before I get to the paint. Today I used an orbital palm sander with 80 grit along with a mouse sander for the tighter spots. Then a Dremel with small,fine stainless steel wire brushes. I’m trying to use a light hand with the power tools.
The reason I’m doing this is to stop some surface rust and small pitting. I’m finding small spots of the surface rust under the coating.
Thanks again Kevin for replying.

Doug Bradshaw

[welder]

Kevin, THANK YOU for another awesome post.