Towing: 10' Wide and 11,000lbs...

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Jay Perrotta
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Towing: 10' Wide and 11,000lbs...

#1

Post by Jay Perrotta »

With the new Rock Salt 34' I'll be getting into towing a 10' wide load that could be as much as 11,000 lbs.

As I've never towed something this big and will need to do it regularly and legally I was wondering if any of you have suggestions about the best tow vehicle and what you need to do as far as permits. Any safety suggestions would also help...

Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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#2

Post by welder »

Jay , ONE TON Truck , one of the big three your choice.

For that load I would go with the dual rear wheels and 4X4 as I'm sure you will be dropping the trailer on ramps all over the coast lines of the USA [ I watched a guy with a grady 306 I was with had to lock in the 4X4 in Venice We were fishing with ] plus the dually taks the sway out while towing.

For long distance towing I would Manual tranny , 6 speed, Diesel might have a hard time up where you live , they dont like cold weather , so ya have to keep her pluged in , no big deal.

My pick on trucks right now would be...............
#1 Chevy, duramax/allison
#2 Dodge , cummins
#3 Ford , V10/gas , 6.4l power stroke 2nd choice
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#3

Post by spoiled one »

I will piggy back what ole Lester has to say: Diesel all the way. I am partial to the duramax and have had zero problems starting mine in sub zero temps up here in AK. A dually would be nice for a tow vehicle, but not my choice if it doubles as a daily driver. As far as launching/retrieving, I ALWAYS use 4 low. Brakes are not your friend when backing down a slick ramp with a chunk of alloy that out weighs your vehicle by two times.:eek:!
Last edited by spoiled one on Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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#4

Post by AlloyToy »

I'm excited!!!!!! Man can't Wait to see her.........
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#5

Post by welder »

JAY, ANOTHER TRICK to backing down a ramp with a heavy boat and have an Automatic tranny........

When you start backing down and gravity is taking hold of ya put your trans back in DRIVE then take your foot off the break enough to slowly roll backwards, works great and if something happens your already in go forward gear.
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#6

Post by Chaps »

F450 or F550 - bigger brakes, heavier suspension, etc. in a pickup sized package. Driving dual rear wheel trucks is really no big deal other than avoiding curb hopping on right turns and keeping an eye on the fenders when you are in tight spots and you will appreciate the control it gives you on the interstate. I'd go auto tranny 4X4 with manual transfer case and manual hubs which allows you to drop down into low range without having the front drive train engaged which is very handy for just moving big boats around a yard or through hilly urban terrain. If you go 450 or 550 there are other heavy haul options available too.
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#7

Post by Daddy'O »

All good advice here.

I agree with both Les & Chaps. No less than a 1-ton rated vehicle. The 450/550 class trucks are a good choice too & many come in extra or crewcab configurations these days. One important thing to remember with the larger (heavier) trucks is you may be required to have a commercial driver’s license. Not a big deal, just something one needs to be aware of especially if they don’t like surprises. Oh, and as Chaps mentioned, dual wheels are no big deal if you follow his advice.

Required permits? You’ll need to do some homework on that one. Seems requirements change from state to state. Sorry, not much help on that question.

Good luck Jay!

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#8

Post by Bullshipper »

Diesel trucks are a lot of money to buy and operate, especially now that diesel is more than gas.

If you were in Colorado with lots of steep mountains I might agree to go the extra distance, but if it were me, I would get a $3000 dually chevy one ton to use for the ocasional haul, and put a rack on it so I could also use it to haul material around for the shop.

Might turn off some customers if they think they need a $35K truck to buy the boat.
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#9

Post by welder »

Jeff, you aint been up north in a while have ya, a new Chevy dually Diesel is bumping 50K and the Fords decked out are pushing 60K, now you can still get a Dodge around the mid 30's.

All these are NEW truck's , I would go 2 to 3 years old [ Prev. owned ] and pre smog crap that they now HAVE TO RUN [ what fuel milage ] let someone else eat the big hit.

I think Jay will be useing this truck to haul these new ROCKSALT BEAST's to there new owners , Boat Shows and his home is in Maine and the Builder is in Texas [ Jay , I have 40 acres here in Noth Texas for storage :D or a stop over ]

I want to here what trailer he is going to use and how many axels.
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#10

Post by Chaps »

Bullshipper wrote: . . . if it were me, I would get a $3000 dually chevy one ton . . .

Might turn off some customers if they think they need a $35K truck to buy the boat.
I can see it now, client is waiting anxiously for delivery of his new $300,000+ Rock Salt and Jay pulls said boat into the guys monster dollar estate driveway with a beat-up old Chev dually, smoke pouring out the exhaust and coolant squirtin' everywhere . . . yeah . . . first class!

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#11

Post by Bullshipper »

[quote="welder"]Jeff, you aint been up north in a while have ya, a new Chevy dually Diesel is bumping 50K and the Fords decked out are pushing 60K, now you can still get a Dodge around the mid 30's.

All these are NEW truck's , I would go 2 to 3 years old [ Prev. owned ] and pre smog crap that they now HAVE TO RUN [ what fuel milage ] let someone else eat the big hit.

I think Jay will be useing this truck to haul these new ROCKSALT BEAST's to there new owners , Boat Shows and his home is in Maine and the Builder is in Texas [ Jay , I have 40 acres here in Noth Texas for storage :D or a stop over ]

I want to here what trailer he is going to use and how many axels.[/quote]

I just bought a nice new 3/4 ton double cab Silverado with the tow package for $21K last November, tax and registration. Its rated for a 8000 lb load I believe, gets about 21 mpg on the highway.

Like I said, diesels are a lot of money, and with diesel over $4, they are getting too expensive to drive, unless your getting paid to.

Chaps,

Guess I misunderstood. I assumed this boat would be slipped near his business, and if people wanted to seatrail, they would have to travel not him. If Jay is doing long haul deliveries to clients, who's minding the store?
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#12

Post by welder »

Good price on that 3/4 ton Jeff and yer right a one ton with the Duramax [ 9.500.00 opt.] and dually it adds up REEL quick.

Jay will need a 1 ton minimum for 11ooo lbs + a trailer might be pushing 14,000 lbs.

I would also look at the F450 and 550 , the F650's and up you need a Class A CDL . You can get the CUMMINS 6.7L in the F550 Ford
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#13

Post by Daddy'O »

Don't know where Jay is ultimately going with his question, but I suspect he is doing some homework.

Remember, first impressions are usually lasting impressions. What Chaps is referring to, I believe, is Jay wants a good looking (presentation) & reliable tow vehicle.

Bottom line, a new vehicle capable of towing 11K (gas or diesel) is not going to be inexpensive to purchase, or to operate.

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#14

Post by Bullshipper »

[quote="Daddy'O"]Don't know where Jay is ultimately going with his question, but I suspect he is doing some homework.

Remember, first impressions are usually lasting impressions. What Chaps is referring to, I believe, is Jay wants a good looking (presentation) & reliable tow vehicle.

Bottom line, a new vehicle capable of towing 11K (gas or diesel) is not going to be inexpensive to purchase, or to operate.

Wayne[/quote]

A professional hauler might be viable if a diesel runs +$50k.
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#15

Post by Daddy'O »

You are absolutely correct Bull!

Jay, are you reading?

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#16

Post by Shark Bait »

Folks – I have to chime in here. I’m sorry, but I just don’t see the need for a 1 ton dually to pull a conventional, triple axle, boat trailer. If you check the specs you will find you don’t get much more pulling capacity and if you use the recommended 5% - 7% tongue weight, which will equal about 1,000# or so tongue weight, a ¾ ton will have plenty of rear axle weight capacity. IF Jay wanted to pull the boat and have a large slide-in camper or he needed to have a lot of weight in the bed, then maybe a 1 ton. The difference in the ride of a ¾ ton SRW (single rear wheel) and a 1 ton dually is like night and day. Additionally, if you go dually you will get a long bed whereas a SRW ¾ or 1 ton can be had with a short bed.

The real limiting factor is the receiver, ball mount and ball. The F-450 factory hitch is 6,000# load carrying and 12,500 weight distributing which is the same as an F-250. The highest rated hitch I know of is the Putnam XDR; 15,000# load carrying and 16,000# weight distributing. How many of you guys use or have seen a weigh distributing hitch on a boat trailer? I will bet not many.

Jay here is my recommendation: Late model/new Chevy 2500HD, Duramax/Allison, 4.10 rear axle, quality aluminum triple axle trailer (Rolls, Myco, Owen and sons), Kodiak S/S disc brakes on ALL six wheels, electric over hydraulic brake unit (Active Technology Gen II), Reese/Draw Tite weight distributing 15,000# hitch and finally, a high quality brake controller like the BrakeSmart. None of this stuff is cheap, but then quality costs money and how do you put a price on safety?

Spoiled One: How does your 2500HD tow your new Glaciercraft? Have you weighed it yet? I will bet it will be close to what Jay’s boat will weigh.

SB
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#17

Post by welder »

Guy's remember , the plant is in south Texas and Jays shop is up in Maine and I'm sure this truck will drag this boat to boat shows all over the USA.

Doing this kind of work [ Towing 10's of 1000's of miles a year ] you don't go cheap on the truck. Heck it's a 2500+ mile trip home from the shop.

Heck , FarmerJanes Toyota with a 2.4L could pull it down the drive way but we aint going just down the driveway , were going up and down and maybe across the country.

Me personally , if I bought a 2-3 or 400,000 dollar boat I don't want to see some yard boy pull up in a POS with my new ride, I want a person that knows his sh!t about the whole rig [ Truck, Trailer and boat ]

On the other hand like Jeff say's , check into a GOOD boat haulen Co. that has LOT'S of insurance and leave the driving to them . Why buy a new truck every 4 or 5 years for 50 or 60 K , just add the shipping fee's in on the boat.
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#18

Post by Daddy'O »

Shark Bait,

Excellent points! You're correct when asking the question, "How do you put a price on safety?" I've seen, as well as many of you, a 1990's Toyota 1/2 ton pickup pulling more than its fair share down the road. Pretty scary when you know the truck is not equipped for trailer brakes, let alone trailer lights.

At least the current vehicles in production, whether 1/2 ton or larger, are equipped with, or provide the option to the consumer (at a price) to be able to provide a minimum safety factor.

One way of being safer (in Jay's case) is to opt for the 1-ton or larger rated vehicle. Sometimes bigger is better.

Bottom line, know your load, know your vehicle's capabilities, & know your state trailer codes.

Wayne - the safety nerd
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#19

Post by spoiled one »

Shark Bait wrote:Folks – I have to chime in here. I’m sorry, but I just don’t see the need for a 1 ton dually to pull a conventional, triple axle, boat trailer. If you check the specs you will find you don’t get much more pulling capacity and if you use the recommended 5% - 7% tongue weight, which will equal about 1,000# or so tongue weight, a ¾ ton will have plenty of rear axle weight capacity. IF Jay wanted to pull the boat and have a large slide-in camper or he needed to have a lot of weight in the bed, then maybe a 1 ton. The difference in the ride of a ¾ ton SRW (single rear wheel) and a 1 ton dually is like night and day. Additionally, if you go dually you will get a long bed whereas a SRW ¾ or 1 ton can be had with a short bed.

The real limiting factor is the receiver, ball mount and ball. The F-450 factory hitch is 6,000# load carrying and 12,500 weight distributing which is the same as an F-250. The highest rated hitch I know of is the Putnam XDR; 15,000# load carrying and 16,000# weight distributing. How many of you guys use or have seen a weigh distributing hitch on a boat trailer? I will bet not many.

Jay here is my recommendation: Late model/new Chevy 2500HD, Duramax/Allison, 4.10 rear axle, quality aluminum triple axle trailer (Rolls, Myco, Owen and sons), Kodiak S/S disc brakes on ALL six wheels, electric over hydraulic brake unit (Active Technology Gen II), Reese/Draw Tite weight distributing 15,000# hitch and finally, a high quality brake controller like the BrakeSmart. None of this stuff is cheap, but then quality costs money and how do you put a price on safety?

Spoiled One: How does your 2500HD tow your new Glaciercraft? Have you weighed it yet? I will bet it will be close to what Jay’s boat will weigh.

SB
I agree with what you say, SB, aside from the 4.10 in the Gm diesel. I do not believe that is an option. From what I can gather, there are two differences between the 2500 and the 3500 Gm trucks: an extra pair fo tires/wheels and an extra set of leaf springs. The entire drive train is identical.

I have not weighed "Patience", yet. I really do not want to tow it through downtown. My estimate would be 14000 on the trailer with full fuel. She tows much better than the old Hewescraft. Must be the third axel and the better quality trailer.
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#20

Post by Shark Bait »

Spoiled One: Good catch on the axle ratio - on the 2008 if you get the Duramax/Allison you can't order the 4:10 like you could several years ago. The drive trains are the same in the 2500 and 3500.

A couple of other differences: You can get a 3500 with single or dual rear wheels, the 2500 only comes with SRW. You can get a long or short bed in a 2500, but only a long bed in a 3500. In most cases you don't need the heavy payload capability of a 3500 for a properly loaded triple axle boat trailer if you are not also carrying a lot in the bed when towing; you simply don't have the tongue weight. I really don't want to use a 3500 long bed, dually if a SRW 2500, short bed will work.

Trying to figure out the proper truck, receiver, ball mount and ball combination for a specific application is confusing and challenging at best and I have never seen a truck salesman that really knew what he is talking about. I'm am switching to a weight distributing set up on for my new boat, not because I need to reduce the tongue weight, but for the easier towing and sway control. I have spent hours and hours discussing the subject with the tech staff at Reese/Draw-Tite before I settled on what I needed.

With these big aluminum boats we have up here I believe we should all be using the best, heaviest duty, towing components we can get - for the safety factor and the ease of towing. I don't relish the thought of some idiot pulling out in front of me on the Seward Highway and having to lock everything up to keep from hitting him. My neighbor had that happen to him with a large 5th wheel and he put the whole rig in the ditch near Bird Creek.
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#21

Post by spoiled one »

SB,

I have looked into the weight distribution setup for boat trailering. I agree that it would help tame down the big beast behind in the event that some yahoo pulls out in front of us. I tried some fast stops on an empty road and I am very impressed with how the trailer brakes and the truck performed. I am beginning to wonder if the brakes ever worked on my old trailer. Any of these newer HD trucks can pull darn near anything you attach to them. Stopping is another matter. We have a foot of wet snow here this morning. :( Whittier probably received several feet. Bummer!
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#22

Post by skypoke »

All true but there are other considerations that weigh in favor of the dually. Number one, that rear end is planted well running on the duals. Jackknifing, blowouts and similar events are less of an event, when pushing the envelope weight wise they become more likely in any truck. Also, having owned short and long bed trucks I vastly prefer the extended wheelbase for linear stability.

I'm running a Ford with 7.3 diesel, duals, 4.10, 6 speed 4wd carry a 10' cabover camper which "could" be on a single wheel truck. But with this rig I can carry the camper and tow my 28' alloy cat for hurricane evac. It's also great for those times when you need to hook up a gooseneck, give the air lifts a shot and it'll carry or pull anything. While the dually is a minor inconvenience around town the utility can't be beat. 14 mpg loaded to the max with high profile camper.

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