considering buying lund cc 1998 need help

[aitkenkingfish]

im considering a 1998 lund cc im looking to use it in salt water. inside is rhino lined has a evinrude 48 spl. ive never owned an aluminum boat so i need some help.

are these boats ok for saltwater?
any things i should check for when looking at the boat?

thank you in advance

[buck3]

I grew up on a 18' Lund with a 40hp. We beached it to fish the rivers in Alaska. It is fine for the salt, but we had to reseal the rivets about once a year. Easy enough with epoxy. So I would check for leaks by either putting it in the water or filling it up with water.

[Sabs28]

I use my Lund in saltwater often. Just rinse off the boat & flush the motor with fresh water after salt use. I usually bring my boat to the lake up road from my house & take it for a short spin in the water to rinse off the bottom, livewell pumps, motor & the trailer. The only issue I have noticed is the paint is starting to peel were the stainless transome hooks are bolted the the aluminum hull.

[JETTYWOLF]

See..Will.

Paint "can be" a problem. And we did talk "rivets".

Jus' so everyone knows "aitkenkingfish" is a fellow fishing club member of mine. As we talked Aluminum boats today on the phone, I sent him to AAB for free and good advise.

Fellow AAB'ers, what about a boat like a Lund not having a zinc on the "hull". And if the Hull is Rhino lined on the inside isn't that where one would use "rivet" epoxy?

( http://www.cabelas.com/boat-care-appear ... RRWidgetID )

I'm always under the thoughts that a HULL without a anode will use the motor anodes, and possibly use them pre-maturely.

Will, the leak test filling the boat with some water is a good idea as a test.
But if the inside has rhino lining, because it could have helped slow a slight leak?? Sounds nutty but ya never know.... I call it backwards repairing

Do ya have a pic?

And let us know (me) what ya find or get.

Either way, you'll love the economy and toughness.

[buck3]

Another good site for those is tinboats.net

[Chaps]

Ya should have anodes and bottom paint if your leaving it in the saltwater for extended periods of time otherwise not necessary IMO

[aitkenkingfish]

thanks guys for the help I wont be leaving it in the water just day trips.

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[aitkenkingfish]

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[pjay9]

Now that is some resizing! You did buy it?! Looks good in the first image! From what I understand the 48 was a builder/dealer package special were not sold as individual motors only on boats...it is a detuned 50 from what I rememeber...that should be a fun boat. Happy fishing!

[mojomizer]

I think that a sacraficial anode is advisable. The only other thing I can think off is watch out for the JettyWolf he runs other boats over

What electronic are you thinking of running? How are they connected to power?

Guys what do you think? On smaller craft the sacraficial anode on the motor will be enough protection? Is the motors sacraficial anode made for fresh water or salt? Magnesium or zinc?

[JETTYWOLF]

Will.....the boat looks good! I see what ya mean about the boxes. But that kinda gives ya some "gunnels" too.

Mojo, that is what I was thinking. Chaps thinks that it doesn't matter for day trips to have an anode on the hull. An anode could be added later "IF" you feel you need it.

But Will, check for leaks somehow!!!

Looks to have decking. If that decking is screwed down, maybe you can pop out a portion. If nothing else I would use a creeper and get underneath it and really look around.

Heck, if it's priced right......WHO CARES. Just go with it. Here on AAB, we take our aluminum very seriously. And NO boat takes No maintenance. Even if it is aluminum. It's all about knowing what to look for no matter what the boats made of.

"IF", you go with this boat. You will be part of the "society", of aluminum brothern.

Mojo knows I'm hell on the water.
But I don't drive over friends.
Especially, Jacksonville Offshore Sport Fishing Club friends.

[aitkenkingfish]

I didnt buy it yet those are pics he sent. it is decked but the deck is rhino lined into the boat. when I talked with him today he says it runs between 20 to 25 mph. id like somthin with a cruise of 30 to 35 im thinking it would need a 70 to get to that range. any thoughts?

[Sabs28]

My Lund DOES NOT have any anodes on the boat itself. There are 3 on the motor, 1 on the very bottom of the motor bracket & 2 above the cavitation plate. Barely any wear on them so far I am a maintenance freak.

[Illgotoo]

I had a 1998 Lund SSV18 Alaskan that I used in saltwater. The rivets on the floor became a problem when they all corroded and snapped off. I replaced them all, which wasn't a big deal once I located a source for those type of rivets. But still...

Honestly I didn't like the boat for saltwater use. It can be done, yes. But the hull was a wet one if there was any wind it would throw the spray right in your face unless you happened to be going straight into the wind. That was in 1 foot chop. Also didn't like the wooden deck and lack of self bailing. I sold the boat and got something that I thought was better for saltwater.

And finally there are lots of places on that boat that cannot be easily washed down. Salt will get into everything. If it's an open boat as the Lund is, I like boats that can be easily washed down with a hose after use.

My 2 cents.

[Sabs28]

I had a 1998 Lund SSV18 Alaskan that I used in saltwater. The rivets on the floor became a problem when they all corroded and snapped off. I replaced them all, which wasn't a big deal once I located a source for those type of rivets. But still...

Honestly I didn't like the boat for saltwater use. It can be done, yes. But the hull was a wet one if there was any wind it would throw the spray right in your face unless you happened to be going straight into the wind. That was in 1 foot chop. Also didn't like the wooden deck and lack of self bailing. I sold the boat and got something that I thought was better for saltwater.

And finally there are lots of places on that boat that cannot be easily washed down. Salt will get into everything. If it's an open boat as the Lund is, I like boats that can be easily washed down with a hose after use.

My 2 cents.

The rivets on the bottom side of the hull Or in the bilge are where all the frame work is??? I check my rivets every year & haven't found any missing or worn down yet & no loose ones rolling around in the bilge either. I have the "Spray back" problem also, But keep in mind the boat wasn't made for "Rough Water". I have been to the "Isle Of Shoals" 3 or 4 times. Cruised up the Coast from the Merrimack to the Piscataqua & back & vise-versa a few times. On a couple of the trips it was nice to hold the throttle at 42 MPH for more than the 45 seconds I am used to in the lakes around here. And of course other trips were not so "Full Throttle" compatable. I rinse my boat off, inside & out after every salt trip. Tip the tounge all the way up & leave it to drain. Not crazy about the wood floors, but mine are still solid. I do my best to keep it in good shape.

[JETTYWOLF]

Will,

I found your Sheepshead boat....over in Panama City.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/23-Feet- ... v4exp=true

Tell him to cancell that auction and you'll give him $2500......hahahahaha Then get a new/used four stroker!



Will, too bad you weren't in the market when this sweetheart from a AAB.com member Mac came up for sale:

I'd love to have this!

[Illgotoo]

The rivets on the floor or the wooden deck covered by vinyl. Not the hull. Never had any problems with rivets in the hull.

I don't knock the Lund. It was a terrific boat that has seen a lot of different water. It can be made to work in the ocean. IMHO there are better choices out there.

I'm not saying trips in salt water can't be done in a Lund. They can and I did. I've had it out of Newburyport a number of times. I would still be doing it if I didn't upgraded to a boat that handles the ocean better. Now I don't have to worry (as much) about the standing waves at the mouth of the Merrimack. The deck is welded and there are scuppers to drain any water that gets in. I no longer have to depend on the Lund's bilge pump.

[Wantry]

Illgotoo ... to what did you upgrade?

We have run lunds for years and years. The small size/shallow draft/weight and volume capacity work very well for us in most situations but I am contemplating upgrading to a boat that is about the size of the 20 Alaskan but with fewer flaws including those you mention--and still be light and shallow enough to be able to haul on and off the shoals single-handed.

Just curious to know how you solved the problem. Thanks...

[aitkenkingfish]

i offered him 3000.00 but im glad he turned it down it really is to much boat for the river. im looking for somthing very fuel efficiant cheap to run & bear bones fishing.

Will,

I found your Sheepshead boat....over in Panama City.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/23-Feet- ... v4exp=true

Tell him to cancell that auction and you'll give him $2500......hahahahaha Then get a new/used four stroker!



Will, too bad you weren't in the market when this sweetheart from a AAB.com member Mac came up for sale:

I'd love to have this!

[JETTYWOLF]

Hey Buddy keep on looking....If you really wanted bare bones and EZ to trailer and fish. I'd be looking for a 16-18 Jon-boat "tiller style".

Have ya scoured thru La. Sportsman's classified. I have. I'd like one to drop the ole 225 Honda on in the garage, I have.

26 fantail La. alloy.jpg (28.96 KiB) Viewed 11288 times

Would really like to play with something like this. But it's 11K, no trailer. If I had 11K cash I'd be buying my "lot" over there(La.) on a canal instead, for
50K.

A man can dream huh??
This is all I'd need....I sleep in a F'n tent, I don't care

Or that "storage building".