Hey guys, I've been somewhat obsessed with the idea of building a Brockway type skiff. I really like the simple lines and no nonsense look of a plain old flat bottomed skiff. I'm just in the day dreaming stages as of now, just wondering if any of you builder guys have any input on adapting plywood skiff plans to aluminum? I have seen an image of one done in aluminum, but thats it. Looking for thoughts on thickness for bottom and sides for a hull 16'-18' (I'd think 3/16" would be adequate?)
Any input or discussion on the subject is welcome. Really just looking to talk shop, I recently fired up the welder after letting it sit and collect dust for the last year and a half. It's got my gears turning like crazy! I built a "rack" on my golf cart (looks more like trophy truck roll cage) out of anodized aluminum pipe I had kicking around. Since that project I haven't been thinking about much else than cutting and welding aluminum....
Heres some pictures of what I'm thinking about.
Nate.
Brockway Skiff
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aluminumdreamer
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Brockway Skiff
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Re: Brockway Skiff
I would be interested in buying one, where is the second picture from?
'05 Pacific 1925
Mercury 150
Mercury 150
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aluminumdreamer
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Re: Brockway Skiff
I found it on a google image search. I think it is Old Wharf Boats of Wellfleet Ma design built in aluminum by a guy in Maine? I kinda think there would a market for such a craft. Very common on the Cape with shell fisherman, built in aluminum it would be awesome? Maybe an 18' with a little center console.
Nate
Nate
Re: Brockway Skiff
'm sure we could get Bill Lincoln to create a simple cutting file. I'd be happy to put a few together for a cheap price.
Welderbob
Welderbob
Re: Brockway Skiff
This is a little 12' V bottom skiff I have a cut file for. Was going to build it then Goatram stole my welder . . . 
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1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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kmorin
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Some notes on skiff shapes for the overall discussion not just for each of the skiffs shown.
Flat bottom skiffs will pound and so will slight V bottoms and so will cambered bottoms skiffs so they tend as a group to be somewhat slow into a chop. Not the hull speed, the kidney and teeth chattering speed of the gelatinous filled beings driving and riding. The skiffs are fine, they'll take a little chop and pound a way all day, not suffering if well made, not complaining and they'll still live long.
But.. the flat bottom is requires the most framing to keep flat/stiff for the same thickness and next is the V bottom and the stiffest is the cupped or camber bottom which stresses the bottom chine to chine and thereby allows less framing wt to make a bigger contribution to the overall strength of the skiff.
I've found the work to make a flat bottom skiff is greater than a cupped bottom and the cambered shape provides more shape stiffness with much less framing.
Most builders of this smaller size that won't have a deck, will put the longs on the underside and the transverse inside, and this does a couple of good things for these skiffs. First is to give some 'keel' so they can turn instead of sliding sideways like a NZ Jet skiff, the second is to give some runners to slide the skiff on when on the beach (not sand) and last is to give some bottom rails to bang on the rocks. It goes without saying that bottom becomes stiffer without having to walk on lots of extrusions lengthwise inside the bilge/deck/bottom area.
The first skiff's shape is kind of plumb sided compared to the last skiff show so the topsides sheets will be MUCH smaller width, in fact many skiffs this size with the first posted design could get by with one topsides sheet of say 60" width (maybe 48"?) but the lower skiff shape probably requires two (2) 4's or two (2) 5' sheets in order to get the J-hook of the outline of that panel in the transition to the bow spoon.
The plumb sided skiff will be simpler to lift gear vertically over, that is you won't have to lean out and stress your back as much but it will not even come close to carrying the same load, IN THE SAME SEAS, as the lower skiff. So if you're thinking of an inshore skiff the Clam Skiff shape (#1) with its very plumb sides is fine, since there is little inshore fetch to provide waves to buck.
The lower skiff has much more spoon and will be harder to work over the eyes of the bow for nets, anchors, gear but will be dry in a little wind chop that will make the first skiff into a semi-submersible. On other hand the lower skiff's tie too openings below the sheer rail or gunwale pipe are ill thought out; in the slightest chop or beam seas they will 'jet water' into the skiff!
If a tie-too rail is required, like the upper skiff shows, then a small diameter pipe TIGged below the gunwale extrusion, on pipe legs is fine. This even provides hand holds to haul the skiff when she's on the beach but the lower skiff's cutout 'tie-too's' look poorly thought out- to me. I think the bottom outside of the pipe would dry the skiff out like a spray rail but not with those holes!
Both skiffs need to be acid etched (
) but you knew I was going to say that.
Both skiffs would take 2x-4x the following sea by raking the transom aft (more) and putting compensation plates on the rake for the leg and the cost is small. Adding a slop tray/splash well/transom pan to both skiffs would make them much more likely to beach in a small swell without being pooped while the forefoot is aground. This is kind of irksome when you're going to the beach in a little swell following & where a weather beach is all that's handy- (I've got get rid of some of this beer- NOW!) So point her into a little beach and she grounds and the stern sits down and the next wave tips into the bilge around the engine cut down of the transom, now you've got to bail and maybe got wet in the process?
I can't see the bilges of the first skiff too well but the lower one's bottom surfaces are lethal when wet and not etched. This skiff needs some 'wing walk', traction paint or 3M tape works great for this application as well.
Weld El's on the corners of the lower skiff's gunwale pipe are a nice touch that keeps the ends looking uniform and clean; the upper skiff's bows are little roughly finished, likely the builder has not done this type of work much before? Flat plates are not the most attractive pipe-end fitting or look.
I usually put a 1/2 pipe or rolled liner in the bilge limber holes to keep the bilge out of the bottom of an open seat like transverse in the lower skiff image. This is pretty simple to do, the weld of the two long sides of the 1/2 pipe or extrusion will bow the bottom downward. Then the frame/seat/thwart can be pulled down with clamps to a very tight fit with the bottom making the tack up easier and the seam usually a nice weld. I bevel the transverse elements vertical edges where they meet the hull, so the weld can be 'inside' the profile of the sheet frame or seat thwart and allows a faster bead than a purely external fillet, which will end up with more distortion.
Its possible these designs are less than 20'LOA? therefore requiring foam blocks inside the three voids? I personally always use "integral, sealed, argon pressurized, hollow box beams" in my designs so I prefer to air test these voids and eliminate the chance of corrosion out of sight and to insure that 100% of the starts and stops are tight, and to add to the "structural integrity of the boat".
[So if I were to be asked to open or vent one of my 'patented' pressurized box beams the entire structural integrity of my design is compromised and therefore even if asked to do this by the TSA/HLS/Coast Guard in a level flotation test, I'd have to decline otherwise it would compromise my entire design.]
AlumDreamer, good luck with your skiff ideas, if you go flat bottom you can go around this design bush a few times. If you use thin material to save money and weight you will have to add framing, labor and welding to the thinner material to stiffen it up! If you use thicker heavier material it will cost more and be done sooner with less framing and welding regardless of the flat/V'd/Cambered shape.
I'd use 0.160"/ 5/32" for a 48 to 55" chine; 0.187"/3/16" for a 55" to 72" chine and 1/4" above that. (some skiffs this size do and some don't have chine flats) I'm always talking in 5086 alloy- so if you soften up to 5052 I'd just use the next thickness up for beaching skiffs' bottoms. I use the next size down for topsides but then it depends on the level of work in the framing you're planning; if you want to get by with less then move up the 1/16" to the next material. I use 3/16" x 1-1/2" bottom rails and a 2x2x1/4" angle at the centerline as a keel shoe. I taper the rails for 6-8 using another angle as a batten and weld only the first 4' solid and stitch the after 2/3 of the rails 3-1/2" to 4" in staggered so there is 8" weld in a foot. 2" half pipe extrusion is the easiest to clamp on the sheer without rolling, and welds back up in a hurry so the top can be dressed fair.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
Flat bottom skiffs will pound and so will slight V bottoms and so will cambered bottoms skiffs so they tend as a group to be somewhat slow into a chop. Not the hull speed, the kidney and teeth chattering speed of the gelatinous filled beings driving and riding. The skiffs are fine, they'll take a little chop and pound a way all day, not suffering if well made, not complaining and they'll still live long.
But.. the flat bottom is requires the most framing to keep flat/stiff for the same thickness and next is the V bottom and the stiffest is the cupped or camber bottom which stresses the bottom chine to chine and thereby allows less framing wt to make a bigger contribution to the overall strength of the skiff.
I've found the work to make a flat bottom skiff is greater than a cupped bottom and the cambered shape provides more shape stiffness with much less framing.
Most builders of this smaller size that won't have a deck, will put the longs on the underside and the transverse inside, and this does a couple of good things for these skiffs. First is to give some 'keel' so they can turn instead of sliding sideways like a NZ Jet skiff, the second is to give some runners to slide the skiff on when on the beach (not sand) and last is to give some bottom rails to bang on the rocks. It goes without saying that bottom becomes stiffer without having to walk on lots of extrusions lengthwise inside the bilge/deck/bottom area.
The first skiff's shape is kind of plumb sided compared to the last skiff show so the topsides sheets will be MUCH smaller width, in fact many skiffs this size with the first posted design could get by with one topsides sheet of say 60" width (maybe 48"?) but the lower skiff shape probably requires two (2) 4's or two (2) 5' sheets in order to get the J-hook of the outline of that panel in the transition to the bow spoon.
The plumb sided skiff will be simpler to lift gear vertically over, that is you won't have to lean out and stress your back as much but it will not even come close to carrying the same load, IN THE SAME SEAS, as the lower skiff. So if you're thinking of an inshore skiff the Clam Skiff shape (#1) with its very plumb sides is fine, since there is little inshore fetch to provide waves to buck.
The lower skiff has much more spoon and will be harder to work over the eyes of the bow for nets, anchors, gear but will be dry in a little wind chop that will make the first skiff into a semi-submersible. On other hand the lower skiff's tie too openings below the sheer rail or gunwale pipe are ill thought out; in the slightest chop or beam seas they will 'jet water' into the skiff!
If a tie-too rail is required, like the upper skiff shows, then a small diameter pipe TIGged below the gunwale extrusion, on pipe legs is fine. This even provides hand holds to haul the skiff when she's on the beach but the lower skiff's cutout 'tie-too's' look poorly thought out- to me. I think the bottom outside of the pipe would dry the skiff out like a spray rail but not with those holes!
Both skiffs need to be acid etched (
) but you knew I was going to say that.Both skiffs would take 2x-4x the following sea by raking the transom aft (more) and putting compensation plates on the rake for the leg and the cost is small. Adding a slop tray/splash well/transom pan to both skiffs would make them much more likely to beach in a small swell without being pooped while the forefoot is aground. This is kind of irksome when you're going to the beach in a little swell following & where a weather beach is all that's handy- (I've got get rid of some of this beer- NOW!) So point her into a little beach and she grounds and the stern sits down and the next wave tips into the bilge around the engine cut down of the transom, now you've got to bail and maybe got wet in the process?
I can't see the bilges of the first skiff too well but the lower one's bottom surfaces are lethal when wet and not etched. This skiff needs some 'wing walk', traction paint or 3M tape works great for this application as well.
Weld El's on the corners of the lower skiff's gunwale pipe are a nice touch that keeps the ends looking uniform and clean; the upper skiff's bows are little roughly finished, likely the builder has not done this type of work much before? Flat plates are not the most attractive pipe-end fitting or look.
I usually put a 1/2 pipe or rolled liner in the bilge limber holes to keep the bilge out of the bottom of an open seat like transverse in the lower skiff image. This is pretty simple to do, the weld of the two long sides of the 1/2 pipe or extrusion will bow the bottom downward. Then the frame/seat/thwart can be pulled down with clamps to a very tight fit with the bottom making the tack up easier and the seam usually a nice weld. I bevel the transverse elements vertical edges where they meet the hull, so the weld can be 'inside' the profile of the sheet frame or seat thwart and allows a faster bead than a purely external fillet, which will end up with more distortion.
Its possible these designs are less than 20'LOA? therefore requiring foam blocks inside the three voids? I personally always use "integral, sealed, argon pressurized, hollow box beams" in my designs so I prefer to air test these voids and eliminate the chance of corrosion out of sight and to insure that 100% of the starts and stops are tight, and to add to the "structural integrity of the boat".
[So if I were to be asked to open or vent one of my 'patented' pressurized box beams the entire structural integrity of my design is compromised and therefore even if asked to do this by the TSA/HLS/Coast Guard in a level flotation test, I'd have to decline otherwise it would compromise my entire design.]
AlumDreamer, good luck with your skiff ideas, if you go flat bottom you can go around this design bush a few times. If you use thin material to save money and weight you will have to add framing, labor and welding to the thinner material to stiffen it up! If you use thicker heavier material it will cost more and be done sooner with less framing and welding regardless of the flat/V'd/Cambered shape.
I'd use 0.160"/ 5/32" for a 48 to 55" chine; 0.187"/3/16" for a 55" to 72" chine and 1/4" above that. (some skiffs this size do and some don't have chine flats) I'm always talking in 5086 alloy- so if you soften up to 5052 I'd just use the next thickness up for beaching skiffs' bottoms. I use the next size down for topsides but then it depends on the level of work in the framing you're planning; if you want to get by with less then move up the 1/16" to the next material. I use 3/16" x 1-1/2" bottom rails and a 2x2x1/4" angle at the centerline as a keel shoe. I taper the rails for 6-8 using another angle as a batten and weld only the first 4' solid and stitch the after 2/3 of the rails 3-1/2" to 4" in staggered so there is 8" weld in a foot. 2" half pipe extrusion is the easiest to clamp on the sheer without rolling, and welds back up in a hurry so the top can be dressed fair.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
Re: Brockway Skiff
Kevin, you've built some beautiful skiffs I've seen posted here and on other sites over the years, how about a tour with pics sometime?
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
please view and like: https://www.facebook.com/bottompainting/
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kmorin
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Chaps, thank you for the kind remarks.
This next summer I'll make a concerted effort to find and photograph some of those skiffs still in this area; most of my time building late 70's and all the 80's I didn't take anywhere near enough pictures of the work.
Now they're harder to find, but I'll give it a go; armed with a camera. Most of the photos I have are of the last 20 years and those boats are here someplace already, not much news there.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
This next summer I'll make a concerted effort to find and photograph some of those skiffs still in this area; most of my time building late 70's and all the 80's I didn't take anywhere near enough pictures of the work.
Now they're harder to find, but I'll give it a go; armed with a camera. Most of the photos I have are of the last 20 years and those boats are here someplace already, not much news there.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
Re: Brockway Skiff
Washington builder Armstrong is putting together a production boat shop in NC, boats like that one have been their bread & butter for years
Black Beard wrote:I'd like to see an East Coast builder come up with a nice high freeboard 20' skiff like these. Center console or optional house:
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
please view and like: https://www.facebook.com/bottompainting/
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aluminumdreamer
- Donator '10
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Lots of good info, lots to think about. The boat Black Beard posted is pretty dang cool!
Nate
Nate
Re: Brockway Skiff
All it takes is a deposit.
Welderbob
Welderbob
Last edited by welderbob on Mon Feb 10, 2014 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Brockway Skiff
thanks for the compliment.
I'll go one further .
20' vee bottom (like the picture).
8' beam
1/4" bottom ( 5086)
3/16" sides and side 5086 deck 5052
center console
hydraulic steering
6 breaker panel
150 hp Honda
single axle bunk trailer
$50,000.00 delivered to the Northeast. with the right to show it at the the june commercial work boat show in Mass.
Welderbob
I'll go one further .
20' vee bottom (like the picture).
8' beam
1/4" bottom ( 5086)
3/16" sides and side 5086 deck 5052
center console
hydraulic steering
6 breaker panel
150 hp Honda
single axle bunk trailer
$50,000.00 delivered to the Northeast. with the right to show it at the the june commercial work boat show in Mass.
Welderbob
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kmorin
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Nate, Black Beard, the owner builder is in the picture to the right, Chris Stephl of Soldotna, AK an engineer and A&E mechanic whose work includes supervising gas turbine rebuild on the Slope, rebuilding one or his vintage 180's and this skiff among other things. One extremely talented hand.
The design is a Glen-L (by Ken Hankinson) Chinook model that Chris modified because I whined and sniveled to him a bit. Chris designed and built the cabin, deck, tankage, and transom somewhat differently than the exact plans but the lines of the hull and the main offsets and lines are from the original design by Mr. Hankinson whose book is not at Glen-L.
I think she's about 20' LOA with a 10-12 deg deadrise and 33"-36" tall topsides typical of the West coast designs. She's been a very reliable hull and I think is 1/4" bottom and 3/16" topsides which is on the heavy side for this skiff but the 150 seems to move her very nicely. I really appreciate the nice chine to keel lines that Ken Hankinson drew giving this skiff a very clean forefoot and therefore nice entry and good performance in a head sea.
This skiff was designed with the 'chine rod' seam that after much sniveling and whining I talked Chris into removing and his chine plate to topsides and chine to bottom seams were fit to 1/32" so the welds were completely fair and had no need of that 'preventative' feature included my Mr Hankinson evidently to allow a huge 'target' for a first time builder to hit?
The acid job was done a little cool outdoors so it has some streaks but the next time it can be done warmer and will result in the entire looking as white as the cabin.
Nate, if you want to build yourself, and you're willing to post here every single step of the way.... so the AAB site has the entire process from the shopping for design (as you're doing now) to the celebratory beer? (Then) I'm willing to provide a step-by-step guide and I'm sure the others here will be able to add info if you have questions beyond what I may be able to answer? For example you can either draw your own lines/plans (we can supervise and send actual drawings if needed) ; then get out the materials and BOM including welding consumables; next, plan and model the method of construction or sequence of the build (bare body or crewed up now and then? building fixture? frames or panels first? ) ; and finally, the step-by-step construction completed by the finish. If you want to build the trailer out of welded aluminum- we can do that as well.
I think your progress a few years past with regard to TIG welding was good, your fab work moved from learning to accomplished so MIG would be just another skill to add to the tool chest, IMO skiff building is well within your abilities.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
The design is a Glen-L (by Ken Hankinson) Chinook model that Chris modified because I whined and sniveled to him a bit. Chris designed and built the cabin, deck, tankage, and transom somewhat differently than the exact plans but the lines of the hull and the main offsets and lines are from the original design by Mr. Hankinson whose book is not at Glen-L.
I think she's about 20' LOA with a 10-12 deg deadrise and 33"-36" tall topsides typical of the West coast designs. She's been a very reliable hull and I think is 1/4" bottom and 3/16" topsides which is on the heavy side for this skiff but the 150 seems to move her very nicely. I really appreciate the nice chine to keel lines that Ken Hankinson drew giving this skiff a very clean forefoot and therefore nice entry and good performance in a head sea.
This skiff was designed with the 'chine rod' seam that after much sniveling and whining I talked Chris into removing and his chine plate to topsides and chine to bottom seams were fit to 1/32" so the welds were completely fair and had no need of that 'preventative' feature included my Mr Hankinson evidently to allow a huge 'target' for a first time builder to hit?
The acid job was done a little cool outdoors so it has some streaks but the next time it can be done warmer and will result in the entire looking as white as the cabin.
Nate, if you want to build yourself, and you're willing to post here every single step of the way.... so the AAB site has the entire process from the shopping for design (as you're doing now) to the celebratory beer? (Then) I'm willing to provide a step-by-step guide and I'm sure the others here will be able to add info if you have questions beyond what I may be able to answer? For example you can either draw your own lines/plans (we can supervise and send actual drawings if needed) ; then get out the materials and BOM including welding consumables; next, plan and model the method of construction or sequence of the build (bare body or crewed up now and then? building fixture? frames or panels first? ) ; and finally, the step-by-step construction completed by the finish. If you want to build the trailer out of welded aluminum- we can do that as well.
I think your progress a few years past with regard to TIG welding was good, your fab work moved from learning to accomplished so MIG would be just another skill to add to the tool chest, IMO skiff building is well within your abilities.
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
kmorin
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aluminumdreamer
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Holy cow, that would be awesome. When I am ready to actually get a bit more serious I'd like to take you up on that. Funny the wife says to me yesterday, I really miss having a boat we should get another one... After having a couple of welded boats (none of which were all that amazing) I don't think I'd like to have any other kind. Not to mention the pride that would come along with building your own.
I've just got to get a bit more serious with my welding to get more cash flowing to fund a boat project. I at least now have the space and most of the gear to complete a build (I think?) I do need a spool gun still, thought I had an adequate power supply but am thinking twice about that... Looks like I'll be looking for another welder in the future.
Anyhow, thanks for the input and thanks Kevin!
Nate
I've just got to get a bit more serious with my welding to get more cash flowing to fund a boat project. I at least now have the space and most of the gear to complete a build (I think?) I do need a spool gun still, thought I had an adequate power supply but am thinking twice about that... Looks like I'll be looking for another welder in the future.
Anyhow, thanks for the input and thanks Kevin!
Nate
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goatram
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Re: Brockway Skiff
YOU GAVE me that welder remember? you pushed me into my build.Chaps wrote:This is a little 12' V bottom skiff I have a cut file for. Was going to build it then Goatram stole my welder . . .
Bob sent you a text
John Risser aka goatram
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
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JETTYWOLF
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Black Beard wrote:I'd like to see an East Coast builder come up with a nice high freeboard 20' skiff like these. Center console or optional house:
2nd dat
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JETTYWOLF
- Contributor/donator/Location Nazi
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Black Beard wrote:I'd like to see an East Coast builder come up with a nice high freeboard 20' skiff like these. Center console or optional house:
WISH THERE WAS INTERIOR PHOTOS. WONDER WHAT THE WALK AROUND THE ""FORT"" DISTANCE IS ??
dats my kinda f-o-r-t
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JETTYWOLF
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Re: Brockway Skiff
welderbob wrote:thanks for the compliment.
I'll go one further .
20' vee bottom (like the picture).
8' beam
1/4" bottom ( 5086)
3/16" sides and side 5086 deck 5052
center console
hydraulic steering
6 breaker panel
150 hp Honda
single axle bunk trailer
$50,000.00 delivered to the Northeast. with the right to show it at the the june commercial work boat show in Mass.
Welderbob
Bob, I'll keep that in mind when I need a few for my Fishing lodge.
I'll pass the info on to a customer of mine who wants a aluminum boat that's Capt Dave approved.
I likes me that clean boat with the "fort".
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goatram
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Re: Brockway Skiff
Dang Dave likes a fort.
Nate you got a Miller? I got a spool gun Real Cheap or free for the time you need it. I have the Lincoln 350mp that Bob sold me plus the Miller 250 that I added the spool gun to. I use the Miller set up for Steel. My Lincoln handles all of the Aluminum. We at AAB can get you involved in Building your Boat.
Bob sold me the welder, Fisherman turned me on to the Miss Eliza as a project Boat, Keven advised me a bit to get My anxiety in check to build it. The rest of AAB and BD (Bloodydecks.com) Brothas help me along the way. Bob aka Chaps just offered me the small skiff on the first page that he has the cut plan for. This Sept. I will order the aluminum for the Build. I want it few mods done to the program for my own use along with going to a thicker plate for the bottom. Run like Kevin Said Full speed to the Beach with no worries Mate kind of an attitude. Powered by a 20hp.
John
Nate you got a Miller? I got a spool gun Real Cheap or free for the time you need it. I have the Lincoln 350mp that Bob sold me plus the Miller 250 that I added the spool gun to. I use the Miller set up for Steel. My Lincoln handles all of the Aluminum. We at AAB can get you involved in Building your Boat.
Bob sold me the welder, Fisherman turned me on to the Miss Eliza as a project Boat, Keven advised me a bit to get My anxiety in check to build it. The rest of AAB and BD (Bloodydecks.com) Brothas help me along the way. Bob aka Chaps just offered me the small skiff on the first page that he has the cut plan for. This Sept. I will order the aluminum for the Build. I want it few mods done to the program for my own use along with going to a thicker plate for the bottom. Run like Kevin Said Full speed to the Beach with no worries Mate kind of an attitude. Powered by a 20hp.
John
John Risser aka goatram
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
Re: Brockway Skiff
This is what I would like to build for my first project..
Stabicraft doesn't make the anymore..
http://www.boats.co.nz/stabicraft-349-dinghy/305
Stabicraft doesn't make the anymore..
http://www.boats.co.nz/stabicraft-349-dinghy/305
Re: Brockway Skiff
I emailed Stabicraft on Goatram's suggestion, I had been contemplating doing that as well. They made 3 really small dinghys, a 249, a 310 and a 359.
The 249 would be an ideal rooftop boat for the our Armstrong, and a reasonable do it yourself project for the me.
We will see what comes of it.. I really would like an aluminum chambered dinghy.. RIBS are OK, but I want all aluminum...
The 249 would be an ideal rooftop boat for the our Armstrong, and a reasonable do it yourself project for the me.
We will see what comes of it.. I really would like an aluminum chambered dinghy.. RIBS are OK, but I want all aluminum...
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aluminumdreamer
- Donator '10
- Posts: 369
- Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:45 pm
- 15
Re: Brockway Skiff
Thanks for the offer John. I do have a Miller but I think it's a bit small for what I really want to do (millermatic 175). I think I'll try to sell it and look for something larger that already has a spool gun. I have also seen spool gun setups with control boxes that get connected to a power source for sale locally. I know a while back I had asked questions about using my tig machine for the power source, but can't recall if it was reccomended or not? I know my tig machine has plenty of amperage, but not sure it meets all the other requirements?
Nate.
Nate.
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JETTYWOLF
- Contributor/donator/Location Nazi
- Posts: 6074
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:11 pm
- 16
- Location: Tree-hugger, USA...they call it FLA.
Re: Brockway Skiff
Chtucker wrote:This is what I would like to build for my first project..
Stabicraft doesn't make the anymore..
http://www.boats.co.nz/stabicraft-349-dinghy/305
Before or after dating the Thai women on the phone?????
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goatram
- Donator 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19
- Posts: 1959
- Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 11:53 pm
- 16
- Location: Stanwood WA
Re: Brockway Skiff
What? Where? Someone say Thai?
John Risser aka goatram
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
33' RBW with twin 250 Hondas (Aliens)
2015 Ford F350 Dually
Master of R&D aka Ripoff and Duplicate
-
JETTYWOLF
- Contributor/donator/Location Nazi
- Posts: 6074
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:11 pm
- 16
- Location: Tree-hugger, USA...they call it FLA.
Re: Brockway Skiff
That link Chris put up had an ad on the side for Thai women....I think it may have been up yer ally John. Date them via phone, add another nickle to pay phone, for sex.goatram wrote:What? Where? Someone say Thai?