RockSalt 275

[welderbob]

http://www.comarexpo.com/. Commercial marine expo, June 11 = 12, 2014 state Pier New Bedford MA

[JETTYWOLF]

Bob,

Alloytoy wants to get comfy and test your cupholders like I did with the original 34 RS.



I gave it the Jettywolf stamp of approval.........."where's my beer, deckhand?"

[welderbob]

Sorry Dave, No Bling on this thing!.
No paint
No cup holders
No rod holders
No canvas
No cushions.

I threw in a VHF radio.

Welderbob

[JETTYWOLF]

I didn't think so.......you build'em the way I'd want them.

Jus' like the Jettywolf."TKFO" - too kill fish only

Do you at least put protectant on the hull exteriors? Do you do as Kevin, acid wash the hulls. Or stay like Pacific with the "MILL" finish?

After my acid wash, as Kevin said it would, the outside of my hull has changed colors. At the water line now I'm getting a nice rainbow of darkness, mixed with some hues of purple, blue and red, and the "white'ness" has all faded to grey.

Interesting experiement. I can clean again, if I want now and add back Metal Shark protectant. But I doubt I will.

[AlloyToy]

Bob a 20' Rocksalt a possibility??

[welderbob]

Not quite sure if a 20' will make much sense. Why do you want some thing with a 24 degree bottom only 20' long? A 20 ft'er is kind of small to go out in the ocean, Its kind of short to run the bays short chop. It will cut it ,but the boat isn't long enough to bridge two waves. You will want a smaller boat to go in the shallows, where as a deep vee will have a deeper draft.
Twenty foot boat take almost as much labor to build as a 24' maybe there is $1,000-1500 in material difference. You will get away with a smaller engine.

The 24' model is designed and the material is on hold until we have a little more room in the shop. Hoping next week my guys get some work done on the 16' skiff and the RS275. I'm off for a few days, should get to go fishing on the Jettywolf during the week. We can't give Dave the impression that nobody loves him. Should have some progress pictures when I get back.

Welderbob

[dingahling]

Have fun, Bob.
Catch em up and take some pics !

[skypoke]

Welderbob, sent you a PM.

[JETTYWOLF]

I've offshore fished A LOT on a buddies 20-21 foot CC, and it has a super deep V. Runs like a scalded dawg with a 250 Etec on it (1990 glass boat) The V has what they call a "padded" keel. The very bottom of at least 21 degree dead-rise has a flat spot. Kind of unique. Supposedly does something when boat "re-enters" the water.

B-U-T...at anchor or a drift. HANG the hell ON

The boat snaps back and forth so much, that offshore or even inshore rough waters makes it pure hell in my opinion to fish.

BUT RUN?
That's all it does good. And for a 20-21 footer is quick in rough chop. But then again, the same boat model in 28' is a whole different animal.
It really RIDES.

NO MORE super deep v's for me. It's not part of what I do when fishing, thats for sure.

[welderbob]

Well the bracket is welded on. The customer call me this morning and said he's dropping off the motors on Monday.

[welder]

Bob, is this hull getting Trim Tabs, if it is do you weld on a bracket to bolt then too so you don't have to drill through the transom?
Same question for the Sacrificial Anode.

[welderbob]

At this point the boat isn't getting trim tabs. For trim tabs we weld a strip of 1" plate to the back of the boat and drill and tab the tab on. The zinc gets bolted to a channel that is welded-on..

welderbob

[welderbob]

Dave, don't get Les or my blood pressure up. The customer is a commercial diver and wanted the platform this way. The platform is "not" measured as part of the boat.
The overall length of the boat is 29'6" .....

welderbob

[JETTYWOLF]

Since (no name) lacks a sense of humor. And makes it 100% obvious. And has a major chip on his shoulder (you know who you are) I deleted my "funny" post for ya.

And I'll delete this too after awhile. I can do that.



Yeah Bob. I guess I'm a Hooligan.

Big W, and You, isn't who it obviously aggrevated.....

Looking forward to more and more photos.

I'm still dead in the water. Soon if ya ever wanted a 26 Pacific you can get one cheap in Jax.

[welderbob]

250 Yamaha's are hard to come by. I've been waiting for months. Yamaha said expect to see a shortage into 2015. There answer is upgrade to a 300hp, there in stock. If your jumping off of the cliff, what's the difference if you fall a little further?

Welderbob.

[JETTYWOLF]

Just got back from talking to my Seatow owner. He's Suzuki all the way. Something like 18 motors 175-300 hp's, from Key West to Jax in his franchises. With up to 5200+ hrs on a Jax boat with not any major issues except trim pistons caps, because he leaves them in the water 24/7 in the Marina next door to the boat ramp and the caps on the two trim pistons are corroded and leak down over time.

The reason for the Yamaha is the Guide Program. 3 years of warranty and a excellent dealership/owner. And 4K off the price.

If zuki had the same, I'd have to be all over it. 30" motors aren't hard to get, as they are available.

The whole problem is a 30" transom.

If I had a 25" transom I'd be in the water with a 225 or 250 already this week with a Yamaha.

That's the cost of never having water touch my upper cowling

[welderbob]

weld a piece of 14" channel to the boat. will move the motor back just enough to get the bolts through. The only question is how the steering cylinder will clear. Hell get out the saw and just cut a few inches off. It can away be welded back on. Post a picture of the outboard @ the steering cylinder. How much room is there from the top of the transom to the platform.

Welderbob

[JETTYWOLF]

Naw....not ruining my boat.

Life is "choices".
[BBvideo 560,340]http://youtu.be/OFp1qQw0k_0[/BBvideo]

Sometimes "we" aluminum boat owners just don't fit in.

[Sabs28]

if ya ever wanted a 26 Pacific you can get one cheap in Jax.

How Cheap

[JETTYWOLF]

If I can't get a motor on it and FAST.....It'll be up for sale. If so, I'll let ya know.

[welderbob]

We're getting closer! Boat got an acid washed today. Customer dropped off the first motor. most of the boat is rigged. This boat is about as basic as we can build.

The new EPA fuel system is installed. There is a FVV( fill vent valve ) on each corner of the tank. These fttings are "tee'd" together and connected to the charcoal canister. The center valve is the FLV (fill limit valve. ). These come in various length to limit the volume in the tank so you can't overfill the tank. The FLV is connected to the fill. .

[dingahling]

Nice !!
More shots please!

24' next !

[kmorin]

Bob, I wish that the cabin had more 'pizazz' was a little more curvy. The hull lines are elegantly simple and clean, the sheer is a 'go fast' sheer and the chine's rise very well matched. I'd have liked the designer (Bill Lincoln?) to put a little more shape in the weather helm because its so obvious standing up there. Even if he just put some 'sweep' to the brow or just along the sides of the brow line instead of flat bar affair?

I like the initial line of the cabin/doghouse where the cover cantilevers aft, that looks good but some forward brow and a little curve wouldn't have offended my sense of design much either. I'm used to the lean forward look of the windscreen but lots of people seem to still find that unattractive? I like that lean coupled with a little brow shape to give a 'bill to the cap' of the house.

Of course more shape is more work is more money and lots of clients spend half their time whining about the costs anyway!! So even if I'd like to see a little more shape to go with the rest of the boat, I gotta admit I'm spending his money pretty freely, and I don't even know him!

Entry under the helm is by side doors? that seems more work than a aft bulkhead panel? Is there a reason this area is accessed from the side(s)? Is the dash hook up and work done by crawling in the console or does one of the panels hinge or lift-besides the doors on the sides? I've used a rear hatch or locker cover but not done the sides of console so I'm interested in that design.

Hard to tell but the really nice looking hatches one in the bow, three in the transom and maybe two on the helm look clean. Did you build or can you buy those as a product, they look weld-in flanged but can't quite tell. Sure to doll up the access to voids and cabinets, and they look vented too.

The tank is interesting, do we get to infer these three vent valves are stock products? I've not seen them not built any tanks for a while, since the regulations came in. Looking at the photo, is the fill center left (forward) the three vents from the new regs are a diagonal from lower left to upper right, the tank gauge is aft just forward two draws (?) centerline (right amidships) and the two engine draws are at the aft most (right in photo)? Just confirming, seems like what you're describing.

Looked like the tank is mounted to longs like engine timbers with gusseted flanged mounts? Angles on the sides of the tanks with a couple bolts? What do you bed this angle on? Just direct to the aluminum stringer below it or is there some other materials in the mounting process?

The interior framing is quite nicely done by the guys, very clean and smoothly shaped as well as welded. It must be very nice to stand at the helm and see those several curves sweeping forward and inward; the chines, longitudinal at the topsides/shelf and the sheer.

Do we assume some sort of ladder will be mounted to the stern platform to allow divers in and out (up and down) onto the swim platform? If its not shown yet that may be some item the owner provides? I was looking forward to one of those neat bent pipe staggered rungs on both sides types of ladders hinged on that swim platform!

What product do you guys use to etch? The looked like it was being prepped for some coating? Wire brushed or sanded to raise some anchor pattern? Will you guys put down a deck coat or will the client put on his own? Paint or traction strips or... I did a little wing walk (air plane trowel on) black grit on a deck last year, it was easy and relatively cheap?

Super 'clean' look about the entire hull, no extrusions on the sheer inside or outside well maybe a flat bar inboard but no pipe or other shapes. No hand rails forward? I guess the owner wants folks to stand back at the helm with him or crawl forward? I think at the speed this will move, that not having (chicken or sissy) rails forward will make moving around dangerous but probably already thought about by the owner? Its odd that he'd go for the super clean look and not have you recess the cleats (like Pacific's cleat well), they don't add much to the super clean look but then I guess the 'skipper is always right'?

Sure is pretty, thanks for taking time to show us the pictures of another fine build! Sure is nice aluminum work- now if those new owners would just let us 'help' them with the overall design a little more.......

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

[iLIVEoffshore]

What method do You use to acid wash?

There's a lot of us watching this RockSalt revival.

Onshore today.

[welderbob]

Acid wash is ZEP-A-LUME. I buy it in a truck supply, used to wash aluminum dump trucks. Mixed a little strong @ 4/5: 1. sprayed on with pump sprayer and lightly scrubbed in a straight line with a maroon scotchbrite pad. It takes two or three times to get it even. Everything gets rinsed with a hot water pressure washer.

If the customer had more money ,the console would have more pizzazz . If my CFO knew what we sold this boat for, I'd be divorced. We're work on the concept of "lose a little on each one and make it up in the volume "The console was drawn and cut with more shape in the front. The customer wanted more deck space so we cut the front off the console. Of course we already had the side doors made. Maybe we can use them on the next boat.( never happens ). The doors are the result of much R&D or as John calls it ripoff and duplication. I believe the concept came from Munson boats. The frame is a piece of 1.5 angle with on leg cut down to an inch. A .125 aluminum sheet door is bent in the brake with a .750 leg (+/-). A barrel hinge is welded to the frame and door. Install latch and vent as needed. We have started to pop rivet the frames on. We use to drill and tap s/s screws. If you ever have to take the frame off, it easier to drill out the aluminum rivet than fight the screw ( even with Tef-gel ). You are right about rigging the boat thru the side door. There isn't much in this boat and it would have been a little easier with the extra 10" we cut out of the console.

Kevin you are 100% right about the roof line and brow. My mentor had a great eye for stuff like that. He would get me on the ladder and start pointing the ruler. Make that straight/raise the front a little/ that need more curve. He was always stressing that you need to step back and look as you go. This is a concept that new guys just don't get.

The tank is just how Kevin described it. The "valves" are a stock product made by PERKO. They will do your tank study and tell you were the assorted valves go. The are many systems, pick one and go. The tank is mounted in the boat as described. We have a length rubber strip under or between the angles.

The owner is a tall guy and he's think he'll roll out of his gear, hand it up to the tender and just give a kick up.

The deck is sanded with 36 grit. We'll prime it and put a coat of paint with non-skid added.

Since the boat is for a local customer I'm sure he is going to figure out that he need a few more hand rails. We recommended them.

SOON!!!

Welderbob