PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

General boating discussion
Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#1

Post by Chaps »

Seeing how you have a lift and with your infrequent long stretches in the water I think I would just clean it as needed. Use a pump-up garden sprayer and shoot the underside with a fairly strong solution of bleach & water, let it sit for a bit (don't let it dry) then pressure wash off. Your current PW is marginal, get about a 2500 psi model. I have no idea if that would affect any coating you have on your hullsides, however.

To properly bottom paint a Pacific 26 (no shortcuts) you have to mask, sandblast, apply 2 coats strontium chromate anti-corrosive epoxy primer, 3 coats of epoxy barrier coat and 3 coats of an alloy compatible anti-foul paint like Pettit Vivid. If you can find someone to do it right then its worth it and your hull maintenance will be much easier and you'll have a better protected hull.
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1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#2

Post by Chaps »

Strontium chromate, I've only used Pettit brand, Seahawk makes one but I have not tried it, Interlux does not have one. On barrier coat I've had curing issues with Pettit so I use Interlux 2000e which is great, Seahawk makes one but I have not tried it.

BTW, the S/C primer mixes and goes on very thin, no thinner needed. On the 2000e it needs to be thinned IMO to get a smooth application, use only the Interlux 2316N thinner with that product
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#3

Post by Chaps »

fine media at moderate pressure, no need for a coarse profile but don't leave any shiny or dark spots, S/C primer needs to go on asap after blasting, first coat of anti-foul needs to go on when last coat of barrier is still slightly tacky which in FL basically means right away. If you are using Vivid apply in thin coats otherwise you risk solvent entrapment in the paint which leads to mud cracking and general failure, thin it down with xylene or Pettit 120. Don't depend on blaster to establish the waterline, you or the painter do it and have him mask to your marks, if he doesn't tear up his resist tape with the blast you can also use it for the paint mask . . . don't get any gasoline on the fresh paint for a few weeks (when you are refueling) otherwise it will screw it up
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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choyero
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#4

Post by choyero »

I have been contemplating the application of bottom paint to my Pacific 21Ft.

Question: If you have a lift, what points do you connect to on the boat? Will the cleats be strong enough or are there other preferred points of connection? To be able to get underneath the boat to spray on all three of the coatings without moving around blocking would be wonderful.

Thanks!
Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#5

Post by Chaps »

Peezer wrote:I wish i could just drop my boat off at chaps shop and be done with it!
I wish you could too. Next best thing, fly me out there and I'll manage the job
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Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#6

Post by Chaps »

choyero wrote:I have been contemplating the application of bottom paint to my Pacific 21Ft.

Question: If you have a lift, what points do you connect to on the boat? Will the cleats be strong enough or are there other preferred points of connection? To be able to get underneath the boat to spray on all three of the coatings without moving around blocking would be wonderful.

Thanks!
On a Pacific I've found the cleats are strong enough to use as lift points. On the 26 in the above pics I used the aft cleats but had to use a large belly strap at the bow because my front hoists were not over any cleats. Once I had the bow sitting on the wood blocking I removed the belly strap and tied off to the hand rails with small straps to keep the boat stable while I worked on it then used the big belly strap again for final lift and trailer reload.
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Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#7

Post by Chaps »

The S/C is more important on a boat that is in the water 24/7/365 so in your case you can skip it though I put it on all alloy boats as insurance against corrosion. Trilux 33 uses the same biocide as Vivid (copper thiocyanate) but I've found it doesn't work as well, not sure why, could be percentage of biocide or something different about the resin but again, in your case with the boat spending most of its time on a lift you'll likely not see a difference. Might as well take advantage of their offer! If the Trilux shows premature growth you can overcoat next time with Vivid with no issues.
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#8

Post by Chaps »

I have not applied Micron CF. It's one of their newest paints that is copper free. It uses Econea as its biocide along with a slime resist compound. For as little time that your boat spends in the water I'm sure it would be fine with any aluminum compatible bottom paint.
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Chaps
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#9

Post by Chaps »

I'm very interested to hear how the CF does as far as inhibiting growth. Do they claim it to be a multi-season paint? Surprised that they only applied one coat . . .
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goatram
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Re: PEEZERS 26 PACIFIC: TO BOTTOM PAINT OR NOT?

#10

Post by goatram »

Cool that it was sponsored.On the lift it should last awhile. Mine has been in the water now for 5 months. I will pull it and then spray it with bleach. No way to wash till I get it home. Looks like this weekend is a blow out. Typhoon that hit Jaban last weekend should be a low pressure rain storm this weekend affecting us in the PNW :hammer:
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