Bought a 23 Pacific

General boating discussion
User avatar
welder
Site Admin
Posts: 4667
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 11:51 pm
16
Location: Whitesboro, Texas
Contact:

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#26

Post by welder »

Sabs28 wrote:I remember back in the BlackLab Marine days when you ordered a brochure it would have a 1 inch X 1 inch square piece of aluminum taped to the inside so you could see what the boat was made out of. There was a short story about how they put a piece of it in the bay & took it out after 30 years, cleaned it off and it still looked like the day they put it in the water. So it makes me wonder what you would have to do to get corrosion that bad on a boat that isn't 30 years old. And then you have to wonder about the problems you can't see, like below the deck.
ELECTRICITY
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
kmorin
Donator 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
Posts: 1735
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:37 am
15
Location: Kenai, Alaska

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#27

Post by kmorin »

Stanley, Chaps, Sabs28, welder,
just a reminder, probably not needed, corrosion of the galvanic type is an electrical charge due to the different metal's molecular structure. Chemical corrosion of the crevice/poultice type is catalyzed by liqiud acid that has an molecular bonding due to the electrical charges of the relative molecules. All stray current corrosion is the other two on steroids - its all the same event. Molecules being changed by electrons moving due to attractions or stronger attractions.

The amount of power (electron flow) involved is what determines how long the metal can last. So the piece dipped in the bay or laid in the woods will last hundreds of years, that' s not known for a hard fact- how long it will last because its only been refined for a couple hundred years? However, put that same piece of metal on a copper wire with a battery on one end- dip the piece of aluminum it bucket of salt water, and run the other end of the battery to the same bucket a few inches from the alloy chuck- It will be gone pretty quickly.

All the same electron migration potential, molecule robbing or stripping, reactivity "bush" to go around and around. All three can cause corrosion but the passive two types don't have the power of the third type; think trickle charger vs welding power supply.

just another comment to expand on welder's explanation- he's right on; in one word.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
Stanley
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:28 am
7

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#28

Post by Stanley »

The corrosion below the waterline is unfortunate. It is certainly a consideration for someone looking to keep their boat in a busy harbor. There was an aluminum barge used for moorings stored right near this boat when the corrosion happened. The only difference was that this boat fished everyday, while the barge never left the dock. Corrosion attacked the barge so bad that they had to scrap it and build a new one.

The corrosion on the console I am figuring is from hooks and such rusting on the console and the rust stains washing down. The hull sides and decks really aren't that bad IMO. A good cleaning and it would look different. Been so much work to do that I haven't even scrubbed the boat down.

Back to advice.. Does anyone have a product that they recommend for a roll on non-skid I can put on the deck? Anything I put on will probably wear off in a couple years, but it would be nice to have the added traction. The deck can get pretty slippery if you have the wrong footwear on a wet deck.

Thanks guys. I will keep you posted when the work is done to the bottom. I am going to get everything ready to fish, then have welding done around late may-early june.
kmorin
Donator 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
Posts: 1735
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:37 am
15
Location: Kenai, Alaska

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#29

Post by kmorin »

Stanley,
I've used this with good results

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 0489&rt=r3

The local home train station carried it in stock. Had to clean the deck well with soap and water, then acetone, then put this down using linoleum roller where I heated the deck first- all worked well together. Still there, on one dock ramp after 10 years all seasons outdoors in Alaska. Make sure to wear gloves when installing or you'd end up sanding off your finger prints!

Cheers
Kevin Morin
Kenai,AK
kmorin
User avatar
Sabs28
Donator '11 '12 '13 '14 '15
Posts: 648
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:57 am
13
Location: New Hampshire

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#30

Post by Sabs28 »

There is a spray in bed liner called Raptor Liner. Our local Sanel Auto Parts store stocks it. Even comes with the spray gun. Sprinkle a little "Black Beauty" sand blasting media on it when it is wet for some traction. I think it is around $200 for the whole kit.
Image
User avatar
Sabs28
Donator '11 '12 '13 '14 '15
Posts: 648
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:57 am
13
Location: New Hampshire

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#31

Post by Sabs28 »

welder wrote:ELECTRICITY
So can I ( or anyone ) assume that the hull was used as a path for the ground circuit for some electrical apparatus of sorts, Maybe??? :popcorn:
Image
Stanley
Posts: 17
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:28 am
7

Re: Bought a 23 Pacific

#32

Post by Stanley »

That 3m product looks like it would be easy to apply, thanks Kevin.

Sabs, yes the boat was docked on a fuel dock that had a loose wire hanging in the water. Surrounded by NON ALLOY boats that were on an in and out service. The NON ALLOY boats were never in the water long enough for their thru hulls to get damaged, but this boat and the barge they use for moorings got attacked pretty bad.
Post Reply Previous topicNext topic