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General boating discussion
Aluminum Clone Owner
Donator #1 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: Newport, Oregon
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#1

Post by Aluminum Clone Owner » Wed Oct 05, 2016 5:26 pm

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Last edited by Aluminum Clone Owner on Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
2011 Weldcraft 260 Cuddy King
Twin Yamaha 150's
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Chaps
Donator '09
Posts: 2133
Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:19 am
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: painted hull back to no paint

#2

Post by Chaps » Wed Oct 05, 2016 8:19 pm

Depends alot on what type of paint and primer system was used and what level of abrasive prep was performed. If you are lucky they used a simple system that can easily be removed with chemical paint removers and they didn't sand the metal. If the job was done correctly it's likely that paint remover will not perform adequately and if the paint did come off you'll find a sandblasted surface at the bottom of the pile which, if you are not going to repaint will typically look bad. Is the paint failing? If it is peeling how does the aluminum look underneath?
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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Aluminum Clone Owner
Donator #1 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: Newport, Oregon
Contact:

Re: painted hull back to no paint

#3

Post by Aluminum Clone Owner » Thu Oct 06, 2016 4:43 am

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Last edited by Aluminum Clone Owner on Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
2011 Weldcraft 260 Cuddy King
Twin Yamaha 150's
Image

ReelSong
Posts: 263
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 4:55 pm

Re: painted hull back to no paint

#4

Post by ReelSong » Fri Oct 07, 2016 1:27 pm

TJ, welcome to the forum, you can ask dave, but I'm sure he used metelloc epoxy primer, base coat clear coat, prolly need Chaps to media blast , acid wash and get the battle ship look.

Aluminum Clone Owner
Donator #1 '08 '09 '10 '11 '12
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:17 pm
Location: Newport, Oregon
Contact:

Re: painted hull back to no paint

#5

Post by Aluminum Clone Owner » Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:48 pm

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Last edited by Aluminum Clone Owner on Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
2011 Weldcraft 260 Cuddy King
Twin Yamaha 150's
Image

kmorin
Donator 08','09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'14,'15,'16,'17,'18'
Posts: 1363
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:37 am
Location: Kenai, Alaska

Re: painted hull back to no paint

#6

Post by kmorin » Fri Oct 28, 2016 2:16 pm

Aluminum Clone Owner- I don't think your hull's metal prep for paint is a huge problem for you cleaning the hull of paint. If you use a stripper- to get the bulk of the paint off- then 90+% of the paint comes off with plastic trowels- like tile adhesive in reverse. The stripper will get the majority of the bulk- it may leave some buried in the anchor pattern but not much volume. The seams, crevices, and weld faces can be hard to scrape of melted/dissolved paint but they're the exception.

When you're done, etching will lift a very significant remaining percentage (80% of remnant) of paint film remnants buried in the anchor pattern surface of the metal. If the etching is followed by simple pressure washer- hot is best- and then a perhaps some repeated etching (?) the surface will come reasonably clean as bare metal.

The BEST would be to media blast, after stripping chemically, as this cuts off the old anchor pattern and its retained film particles or strips. But your boat's painted surfaces' cleaning or stripping is a matter of you choosing to do the work or hiring it out -either way you look at the project? So I can't see that your goal is really any harder to attain if your hire the work- versus use a limited means more available to you? In one method you'll expend your own effort, consumables, equipment and time; in the other you'll expend dollars to get the work and time spent for you.... stripping the boat is stripping the boat.

Good luck with your boat's surface treatments, look forward to before and after pictures.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin

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