Looking at the Specmar 2434 plan. Boat will be used for ocean fishing of the oregon and washington coast for Halibut/tuna bottom fish and crabbing.. Would swap out the center console for a small centered cabin about 5'x8' to keep out of the weather and spray running a 300-350hp single outboard with a kicker.
http://www.specmar.com/aluminum-boat-pl ... isher-2434
http://www.specmar.com/media/2308/2434- ... art1-_.pdf
specmar 2434 plans, your thoughts
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kmorin
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Re: specmar 2434 plans, your thoughts
noexcuses2,
I think everyone can agree that Specmar boats are drawn with very heavy scantlings? They usually show a couple of 1/2 or 1/4 buttock longitudinals that are deck-to-hull and combining these with the topsides- you're looking at a "combat vehicle" level of stiffness/rigidity in the hull.
Whether you have it built by their firm or buy the 'cut kit' and build your own? The resulting hull is very strong and mostly well formed skiff. The only caution would be to make sure you know the weather helm or cabin all up wt/mass/displacement change you're proposing? The *.pdf shows a T top and console- not very warm for spring and fall runs too far out in the Pacific? But, when you add cabin sides, plate/sheet top, window glass and any kind of fit out.... ? you could be fiddling with their designs' weight and balance? I'd want the designer on board with your mods- before moving forward.
[If I'd designed a boat, and offered it to others who decided to redesign the wt&balance- I'd either want to be involved with their changes or want them to "never call me"!]
On the other hand at almost 9' or nearly that on the chine.... she can sure pack a decent load. 22deg deadrise means it takes a bit more hp to get her up on step than a more modest V...but; she'll run into a head sea much softer as a result of the very high chine forward. Even as she enters a swell a bit softer than her lesser V cousins- the reverse chine will help keep this hull dry in a head sea up to the level she's pushed enough to bury the bow above the chine.
I'd prefer to see the topsides rubrail run upward, all the way to the bow- instead of just mirroring the deck line? I see the hull extrusion "line" at the deck as a reasonable provision to docking... but with the exception of the reverse chine (often not enough) there's no spray deflection above the chine plate. Therefore wind spray will be on the glass in some conditions where a longer 2ndary topsides spray rail will help deflect that rising waterline- outward if a full length topsides spray rail is run?
Also, I prefer to see the full length spray rail as a design feature, and structurally prefer to have it outside the hull - not intersecting with any framing inboard.
IN the Plan View, I prefer to see the inner edge of the guard deck/sheer clamp/walk around plate to follow the same curve as the outboard edge of the sheer- or topsides' upper most line. Here we see a line from transom to an hogged angle point in plan? That is a little to industrial for my taste- and the work to cut this piece (s) as a curve is not that much more than the homely angle point shown in Specmar's Plan View.
to me this design element is very important as you'll be at the helm for hours and hours.. (hopefully ?) and all that time you'll see this ugly "corn combine" kink/hogg/hard spot in the sheer! Compare to : http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 51#p209251 as a skiff of roughly this size using the outer curve to determine the inboard edge of the gunwale's line?
Last in my view is re: the sheer. I am not a fan of the "Ribovich Leap" or the stepped sheer, this line is hard to make attractive to my eye, but at around 40 to 50' LOA begins to look a bit more appealing. Unfortunately, like many skiff lines- I can't find the amidships 'jump' in the sheer attractive. However, as we're all aware- beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I'm just a couple of cents worth of opinion.
"your thoughts"? There are mine, just looking at the downloaded *.pdf
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
I think everyone can agree that Specmar boats are drawn with very heavy scantlings? They usually show a couple of 1/2 or 1/4 buttock longitudinals that are deck-to-hull and combining these with the topsides- you're looking at a "combat vehicle" level of stiffness/rigidity in the hull.
Whether you have it built by their firm or buy the 'cut kit' and build your own? The resulting hull is very strong and mostly well formed skiff. The only caution would be to make sure you know the weather helm or cabin all up wt/mass/displacement change you're proposing? The *.pdf shows a T top and console- not very warm for spring and fall runs too far out in the Pacific? But, when you add cabin sides, plate/sheet top, window glass and any kind of fit out.... ? you could be fiddling with their designs' weight and balance? I'd want the designer on board with your mods- before moving forward.
[If I'd designed a boat, and offered it to others who decided to redesign the wt&balance- I'd either want to be involved with their changes or want them to "never call me"!]
On the other hand at almost 9' or nearly that on the chine.... she can sure pack a decent load. 22deg deadrise means it takes a bit more hp to get her up on step than a more modest V...but; she'll run into a head sea much softer as a result of the very high chine forward. Even as she enters a swell a bit softer than her lesser V cousins- the reverse chine will help keep this hull dry in a head sea up to the level she's pushed enough to bury the bow above the chine.
I'd prefer to see the topsides rubrail run upward, all the way to the bow- instead of just mirroring the deck line? I see the hull extrusion "line" at the deck as a reasonable provision to docking... but with the exception of the reverse chine (often not enough) there's no spray deflection above the chine plate. Therefore wind spray will be on the glass in some conditions where a longer 2ndary topsides spray rail will help deflect that rising waterline- outward if a full length topsides spray rail is run?
Also, I prefer to see the full length spray rail as a design feature, and structurally prefer to have it outside the hull - not intersecting with any framing inboard.
IN the Plan View, I prefer to see the inner edge of the guard deck/sheer clamp/walk around plate to follow the same curve as the outboard edge of the sheer- or topsides' upper most line. Here we see a line from transom to an hogged angle point in plan? That is a little to industrial for my taste- and the work to cut this piece (s) as a curve is not that much more than the homely angle point shown in Specmar's Plan View.
to me this design element is very important as you'll be at the helm for hours and hours.. (hopefully ?) and all that time you'll see this ugly "corn combine" kink/hogg/hard spot in the sheer! Compare to : http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... 51#p209251 as a skiff of roughly this size using the outer curve to determine the inboard edge of the gunwale's line?
Last in my view is re: the sheer. I am not a fan of the "Ribovich Leap" or the stepped sheer, this line is hard to make attractive to my eye, but at around 40 to 50' LOA begins to look a bit more appealing. Unfortunately, like many skiff lines- I can't find the amidships 'jump' in the sheer attractive. However, as we're all aware- beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I'm just a couple of cents worth of opinion.
"your thoughts"? There are mine, just looking at the downloaded *.pdf
Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
kmorin
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noexcuses2
- Posts: 104
- Joined: Thu Jun 30, 2016 3:17 am
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Re: specmar 2434 plans, your thoughts
Kevin, probably going to be building it myself but will look into cost to have it built. I will have specmar design the "island cabin" if I go with this. My last boat was a center console and I loved the fishing room and ability to walk all around the boat I really want a hard top and some side protection form the elements as I get older. I am hoping that the wider bottom with bigger reverse chines even with the deeper v that she will not be too roly poly on the drift and also handle some weight. I am also wondering at what speed she would stay on step loaded pretty heavy and propped more for low end grunt then speed.
Where would you run the full length secondary upper spray rail at, all the way at the rub rail line or like a foot lower? I see what you mean about the angle on the walk around deck being on the industrial side, just a little bit of code work and it should be no problem to smooth it out, would make it much smoother to bump into also on a moving deck.
Another PDF file they sent me.
https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/tr ... 4ad428bf74
I would remove the lower fore deck under the front deck hatches and add a floor down lower. Add a lip to the second shelf and run them both much further to the bow. Add a access door in the side for ease of entry at the dock, some of changes mentioned above, and probably several other changes all with specmars input. I have already asked them about the access door, removing the lower fore deck and changing over to a small "island cabin". and so far no problems, all it cost is money lol.
Where would you run the full length secondary upper spray rail at, all the way at the rub rail line or like a foot lower? I see what you mean about the angle on the walk around deck being on the industrial side, just a little bit of code work and it should be no problem to smooth it out, would make it much smoother to bump into also on a moving deck.
Another PDF file they sent me.
https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/tr ... 4ad428bf74
I would remove the lower fore deck under the front deck hatches and add a floor down lower. Add a lip to the second shelf and run them both much further to the bow. Add a access door in the side for ease of entry at the dock, some of changes mentioned above, and probably several other changes all with specmars input. I have already asked them about the access door, removing the lower fore deck and changing over to a small "island cabin". and so far no problems, all it cost is money lol.