Wiring Advice Please...

[cprado]

Good morning everyone,
Hope everyone is doing well and safe. I'm in the middle of wiring a few projects thought I'd try to knock it all out at once. And my apologies in advance for the lengthy post. I'm comfortable running wiring when I know what needs to go where, but looking for help on the following please.

1) 2-wire bow light wiring.
2) 2-wire 12v horn placement advice.
3) 2-wire 12v horn wiring.
4) 2-wire 2-pin stern light placement advice.
5) 2-wire 12v 2-pin stern light wiring.
6) Can my Evinrude Simplex control box can be wired with a lanyard kill switch and if yes how?

I've tried doing research online and don't know if it's as simple as just connective positive, negatige and ground wires appropriately, but some research shows wiring using a relay, SPDT or DPDT.

I've attached pictures to show how I think wiring needs to be connected.

And I'm also looking for advice on placement of two items (#2 and 4). Regarding the horn placement, there will also be two cleats placed on perimeter halfway down hood on left and right and I'd like to add a vintage mountable spot light in front of the driver windshield on the corner perimeter. If you zoom in close enough you can see the pre-drilled holes for cleats by the bimini mounts.

I've tried to make responding easy by numbering my questions if you wanted to do the same.

A couple of friends got me into antique boats and my first is the 1959 Orlando Clipper. Love these vintage boats... the simplicity... the ease of working on them without taking to a repair shop... and the classic look to these boats. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks and hope everyone has a great day![album][/album]

[Craigb]

There is a good book, nigel calders mechanical and electrical systems for boats. That might be a good place to start educating yourself about boat electrical systems. Also, ABYC publishes standards, learning current requirements that boatbuilders have to meet now is very helpful. E-11 and E-10 are likely where you'd want to start. Aside from that, if you really aren't sure and are turning to opinions(this is one, you don't know me or my experience) on forums, maybe hiring that local shop might be worth the buck. They may understand ground paths, ampacity of circuits and wire sizing, complying with current standards/practice...
You may want to check forums that deal more with the light duty 'tin boats', riveted sort.

[kmorin]

cprado,
to answer some of your questions in regard DC in a metal boat.
Rules of Thumb.

A) ALL MARINE circuits are positive and negative: THERE IS NO GROUND IN A metal BOAT; ONLY POS & NEG & bond.

B) correctly; ALL circuits begin at a positive buss, go through a fuse/circuit breaker rated to the load (device max draw of amperage) and ALL circuits return to a NEG or DC Minus buss.

C) Many devices are Chassis bonded where a 3rd wire links the electrical or electronic device to the other devices to avoid chassis stray current and that entire bond is terminated to the DC NEG Buss at ONE (only) location.

If these Rules of Thumb are followed then all metal hull marine wiring will follow- any diagram with a "ground" symbol or provision is useless and erroneous; since there is no provision in a metal boat to 'ground' (shore side and automotive concept) the current in or out of any device in a metal boat.

D) The DC negative Buss is correctly BONDED to the hull in ONE (single) location with a silver clad 'lug' onto a dedicated and sacrificial aluminum lug or padeye, with a bolt; and that location is shielded from being wetted.

Hope these Rules of Thumb will help you sort out your questions? Location of any device, or light do not modify the circuit Rules of Thumb above.

#4: As to stern light on a tiny skiff, I'd suggest a pipe/tube stantion that holds the light fixture as high as is practical since the purpose is visibility in darkness - to avoid being overun (collision) with larger vessels in a seaway. Perhaps a thread on fixture could be fitted to a thread pipe - that can be stowed or fixed to the shear into a socket?

#2 The purpose of a horn, in fog or during close hull maneuvering is to get attention from other boaters. So, mounting this sound producing device on the bow deck seems most prudent- facing away from the cockpit!

#6 The on/off key-switch can be wired in series to a 'kill switch'. Acquire a SPDT switch with a plastic insert "ON". This would wire in series to the Key and interrupt the power (DC +) to the engine by pulling the plastic insert. https://www.autozone.com/ignition/kill- ... 815812_0_0
this is an example of the type of product used to stop the engine's DC power. A lanyard attached and pulled from this 'interrupt' type of switch will stop the engine, like turning off the key switch.

I hope this helps your research in re-wiring you skiff and planning for a reliable electrical system?

[by the way, as note: the photos show wide corrosion (mill scale moisture retention) and an good acid etch is in order for this very poorly maintained aluminum alloy boat!]

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

[gandrfab]

And that right there helped marine wiring click in my grey matter.
"D) The DC negative Buss is correctly BONDED to the hull in ONE (single) location with a silver clad 'lug' onto a dedicated and sacrificial aluminum lug or padeye, with a bolt; and that location is shielded from being wetted."