Cabin Build

[Finished Business]

Hi guys, I'd really like to start the planning stages of my cabin build on my '95 Crestliner Eagle. Aluminum fab, is entirely new to me. I have a welder available to me capable of doing what I figure I need, but I may in the end have someone run the beads for me. I have the means to cut, bend..ect. but I'd like the welds done right, so for that sake I may farm it out.

I don't have any 3D imagining programs like I've seen several use when planning a layout, other than what I can sketch, which at times is not so great! But I'm very excited about getting this project underway and I would like to plan thoroughly, in regards to material I need (I would like to make one purchase for everything, when I am ready), and specific structural modifications I need to address to make it work.

The cabin build is going to be the biggest of my projects for this boat. I would like a solid ALU cabin to make the West Coast of Vancouver Island a little more bearable when it gets ugly! I intend to have as many windows as possible, to create 360 degree viewing, with a sealed sliding or opening door (would love opinions and experience on one vs. the other!) at the back. I don't need the cabin to be too large, as it is a walk-around, and I wish to still be able to do so.

Without really knowing where to start with such a process, I come to you folks!
Supplying the material for the project is no problem, but things I will be looking for information on are as follows:

Cabin material - thickness (gauge)?? I'd like it strong, with no flex. and a roof load of max 2-300lbs (so I can stand on it, strap gear up there...ect and not have to worry about it creasing or bending)

Windows - seems to be a few options for installation - clamp in - bolt in - weld in. I would like to go bolt in or weld in. But bolt in would be preferred as I can simply do that myself, and for whatever reason a window breaks, replacement is easier to do myself.

Mounting to Current Structure - the 'dashboard?' where the current windows are mounted (the windshield is just screwed into the aluminum) is .090" thick. The corners of the current cabin are formed, not welded.

Roof - Is flat or pitched better? I would assume a roof with a gentle angle with a peak in the middle would offer better strength than a flat roof, or would a reinforced flat roof be best?

Weight - would like to keep the overall weight of the structure as light as possible, but still retain good strength and rigidity.

I've attached a simple sketch (be kind!!) of what I have in mind. The rear door, not included in the sketch, I want to have a centered door with a long window, with a long window on either side. Plan to build it as a fishing machine, so I need to see those rods! The front window, also not pictured, due to the shape of the current cabin, is likely to be two windows, forward facing, or at least that's what I want.

If there are any questions to help aide in this build, please ask.

Look forward to any input or information you all have.

Thanks,

Nick -FB-

[Sculpin]

And goatram in one...........

two...........

three...........


http://aluminumalloyboats.com/viewtopic.php?t=2098

[Finished Business]

Haha....i tried a half dozen searches on cabins before posting....

so me!

thanks john....I will read on and if any questions go unanswered i will post them here I guess.

Thanks for link...

[goatram]

google draw is what I used.

for the roof and sides I USED .100" 5052. supports I used 1" X 2" square tube .080" thick. used the ring roller to roll the tube to the desired shape. A trusted local builder helped me figure what to use.

If I was to doe it again I would Cut my original front Window off and just have the fwd leaning window. here is the BD thread more info there. I think it would be better looking and easier.

http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/washin ... ahawk.html

Windows Second hand. Pacific Marine Exchange in Bellingham has some and Second Wave in Freemont WA has some more.
use Smaller windows not the full length like I did. I really have to watch that I don't break them.

[Sculpin]

I find it uncanny how your sketch is so similar to what goatram built. I like how you drew in all the future toy's. That's how I roll too

I think something similar to goatrams build would look great on her FB. Hopefully he can address some more what to do's and don't do's once you get going. Nothing like having someone that's been there and done it to ask questions to.

I really look forward to seeing the progression on this Crestliner.

Cheers,
John

[Finished Business]

thanks goat for the insight on material thickness...I am still working my way through the 5 pages of your build, taking it all in. It ended up looking great!...good info on the second hand windows in the Bellingham area, that will come in very handy!

I was staring at the pics of your build, trying to estimate your thickness of material and supports...thanks for clearing that up!

The cabin I hope to build will not be nearly as big as yours, as it will be built to maintain my ability to walk around the cabin...similar to a 4x4 cube with forward facing windows is what I am picturing.

So far a great site that seems to answer my questions before I ask them...just a little hard to search it out at times...be patient with me!

Looking forward to getting it off the ground!
And sorry Sculpin, with all that positive talk on the fishing forum...she will be keeping the inboard me thinks!

[Finished Business]

What are my options out there for windows?

I was reading the BD site and a few members had mentioned options (safety glass, lexan ect) for custom windows. Some sounded rather affordable and I liked the idea of the scratch resistant Lexan, but not if it becomes 'foggy' over time...

is there another thread for windows somewhere? lol

I see you used both Glass and Lexan on your boat Goat....how is your experience with them thus far?

(only got 6 pages into BD before I got cut off...not a member at the moment...1 or 2 forums is about all the free time I have!)

Thanks,

NICK

[goatram]

My recent birthday I received mutable B Wishes from all of the forums that I am on as goatram. Join the BD site and continue to read and understand. So fare the lexan is new this year so my thoughts are still positive

[Sculpin]

Yeah you should join Bloodydecks Nick as it is a great community and you can post all sorts of sh*t and not get kicked off ha ha If us old farts can manage multiple forums you can too buddy



You indicated before that you make trips down to Bellingham so you could check out the window thing and see if they have anyting that will work. Cool project and I can't wait to see the progression (I promise to leave you alone with the pod thing if you get this cabin going) lol.

Cheers,
John

[Finished Business]

I just figured you guys don't sleep!

Saving hard to start the bigger projects as soon as possible...not only do I have alot of research but I have to get over the hump of being timid in regards to all these new, exciting, and involved projects!

Don't want to leave you forum hounds hanging for to long without a new picture or two to look at!!

Going fishing tomorrow, luckily all my buddies boats run and fit me nicely ;) while we wait for the Eagle to fly!

[Finished Business]

Goatram,

Do you have any pictures from inside the cabin, detailing your support structure for your forward facing window? Or did you just use 1x2 tube like the sides and roof?



Thanks,

NICK

[goatram]

Nick for the forward facing windows I used 1" X 1" square tube 1/8"thick good and strong and still able to mold with a ring roller if needed.

Join the BD website and you can continue to read the thread.

[Sculpin]

Join the BD website and you can continue to read the thread.

Yeah Nick just join the darkside buddy

[Finished Business]

Yeah Nick just join the darkside buddy

I thought I was already here!

Will get on that later today....I was hoping to mock up the cabin today with some thin plywood and see if my sketch can come to life...will try to get onto BD today!

[Sculpin]

A mock up is a great idea. It will give you a really good feel for the size, head room, elbow room, etc.

You can draw on it as well for reference notes, size of windows, etc.

Cool stuff FB!

P.S. you should hit up Welder for some Aluminum Alloy Boat stickers.

[Sabs28]

P.S. you should hit up Welder for some Aluminum Alloy Boat stickers.

And while you are at it tell him to get one on his boat.....

[Sculpin]

P.S. you should hit up Welder for some Aluminum Alloy Boat stickers.

And while you are at it tell him to get one on his boat.....

Let's not get the young feller twisted into Welders weird sense of humour now mmmmmmkay

[Finished Business]

Because you timers of old need something to talk about Crestliner related.....here's some visuals to strike up some conversation!

I removed the floor today, as previously mentioned I wanted to do a plywood mock up of the future cabin, but prior to doing that I realized it would be an incomplete mockup with the current storage and seat assembly still in the boat. So out it all came to prepare for the mock up. Looks solid underneath with floatation between the supports.

The large middle crossmember seperating the 2 gas tanks is likely where I would mount the solid rear wall and door, but a new support may be needed towards the stern to make room for 2 more cabin seats. The cabin wont be abundantly roomy with 4 anglers, but the seats will be removable when its just two onbaord.

I encountered alot of rot towards the helm and removed about 400lbs of old spongy floor all together.

Enjoy the pics, looking forward to your thoughts and comments!!

Cheers!

-Nick-FB-

[Finished Business]

As well, keenly interested on the options for flooring. Sculpin mentioned a sandblasted bare ALU floor offers alot of grip...I like the idea! Or maybe take it a step further and sandblast checkerplate? Would like to hear as many possibilties for a home builder (with a shop ;))

My experience can only take my imagination so I'm hoping you old vets can show me the ropes. Would like to rebuild the large livewell/storage compartments under the seats, should I keep with the plastic tub or just build a sealed aluminum enclosure?

Any other sensible additions or changes I can make in the general dancefloor and storage layout? I've only been on a small handful of boats so again, my experience only takes me so far (not far at all!

Thanks a ton ladz!


-Nick

[peterbo3]

Down this way, we tend to use checker plate on the decks. Some people, like me, prefer to cover the plate with marine carpet as we fish bare footed a lot of the year. I'm guessing that you guys wear boots as that Pac NW water gets a bit cold. I always wash the blood guts off the carpet with salt water & have never had a problem with stuff caught in the carpet.
I would go with the checker plate with some sort of easily removable non-slip rubber matting over it. The perforated shock absorber stuff that comes in 2 foot squares that interlock. Another way would be to use strips of non skid tape onto the plate. 3M makes some pretty handy stuff. I would not worry about abrading the checker plate if you are going to put some other non skid over it.

[Finished Business]

Ya the great northwest does get a little cold, don't think I've ever gone barefoot in the boat while fishing...to much blood, guts and gear to worry about. That and if you end up wet on the northwest coast, it could be months before the sun shows up to dry us out!! lol

The current boat I run has a plywood floor wrapped in vinyl. It was pretty accomodating for the most part, until the prawn oil got a little messy....it was a literal skating rink. Would definately like to avoid other similar situations with the floor I install.

The boat is being built for 98% fishing 2% boating, so comfort on the dancefloor is not as critical for my use. Having good grip all the time, whether its prawn oil, fish blood, or some other slippery substance gets on the floor, I still want to not have to worry about slipping.

Does the lock together plastic matting offer those qualities?

[kmorin]

Finished biz, I'm not sure of the following, its just my speculation based on the image files you've posted above.

It looks like the fuel hoses are steel crimp onto brass end fittings? Perhaps that is wrong- but the mess on top of the tanks appears to indicate there has been a pool of water containing iron and/or copper in solution? I'm implying there was some potential for corrosion in those areas and that removing the tanks to examine the hull below the tank area in the bilge may also be worth while?

The discoloration may be from some other source and the photo just doesn't make it clear? So if the dark colored areas will wipe off the tank tops down to clean parent metal (??) then what I'm guessing is not correct. If the dark patches have a rough surface under whatever wipes/sands off, indicating surface corrosion, then the bilge may have collected some of this potentially corrosive water mixture too.

If a flat topped tank is installed without active air circulation, and water could stand on the top in a pool, there is a chance the water/condensate/deck wash rinsed over the hose ends. If that were true, and the water contained metals with galvanic difference to the alloy of the tank; corrosion occurs. Then, when that (assuming it dried) patch was wetted again the reaction would resume the process of corrosion. When the boat was afloat that water could roll off the tank and collect in the bilge.

Also the age, design of the build and level of maintenance imply to me that using a bore scope to inspect the tanks' 'low points' would also be worthwhile as water collecting below the fuel level will become deaerated and therefore acidic; this is a widespread failure point of many aluminum tanks installed without water sumps or effectively installed low point draw/lift lines.

Just some questions based on the photos that I think are worth your time to investigate during your deck project.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin

[Finished Business]

Great info Kevin, tank you ;)

The day ran a little late after I took the last panel of floor out and I didn't have a chance to get to a close inspection (as far as cleaning and inspection). The substace on top of the tanks was somewhat gooey. I would relate it to a thick oily substance. The floor had a lot of rot in some spots, the floor was soaked completely through in some places, and it has been in my shop now for a good few weeks....for some reason I feel like they are indeed steel clamps on brass fittings...but will have to confirm once I'm back at the boat...

The previous owner stored a lot of maintenance oils up under the captains chair, and it looks like the floor soaked up some spills....it leads me to believe that these oils are what is ontop of the gas tanks and around. Next week I will have time to give it a light pressure wash to clean up the interior hull and around the gas tanks, and will take a better look, and be sure to post pictures if anything is suspect. With no experience in this field, its posts like that I can put to use and in the end have a far better, and safer boat on the water!

Cheers Kevin,

Regards,

NICK

[kmorin]

Finished Business, if you have an oil spill its a total blessing, the oil will create a oxygen rich paste on the surface of aluminum and preserve it!

In the late 50's and early 60's along the PNW coast three builders were contracted to build a series of 32' welded aluminum gill net boats for a salmon cannery in the Kenai River. Shore Boats, Marco and Matsamoto in BC (I think?) all build a series of hulls for this fleet.

I worked on these boats for years doing repairs, modifications of every type and worked in the bilges of a number of these hulls. One very interesting fact was the amount of protection that leaked engine oil and other petroleum products provided the hull plates inside the boat.

Some were fitted with bronze/brass stuffing boxes and under many of these fittings were corrosion pits that eventually ate the hull completely away in some boats. In one particular boat, and the reason of this entire post, the cannery mechanic had drilled the stuffing box for grease zerk and there was bearing grease pumped into that box for years. The grease had flowed down the shaft log/stern tube and also into the hull. In an area the exact shape of the grease laying on the hull plate for the last 30some years the hull plate was as good as the day it was milled. All around that 'protected' area the hull was pitted from the dripping of water from the copper alloy stuffing box.

The grease had protected the hull by providing coverage and oxygen to the aluminum oxide to exclude the galvanic cell that had corroded the surrounding exposed hull.

I hope you find the past skipper spilled oil on your tank tops about where the steel and brass fittings may have dripped!

cheers,
Kevin Morin

[Finished Business]

Kevin, I havent got back to the shop yet, though I am itching to to check out this tank situation. Should it be the worst case, and there is some corrosion, are there fittings and clamps that should be used on the tank to avoid those possibilities in the future?

Also can anyone advise me on the best way to remove the fuel from the tanks? Should I simply disconnect a hose and siphon/pump it out? or is there another method?

Thanks,

FB