If the boat's name was "GREAT WHITE HUNTER" yes it is a 23' Bayrunner
He has caught some big ones!
That owner was one of the characters on Dallas.
new project - advice requested...
In2Deep - nice looking cuddy! I almost bought a 2002 Bayrunner cuddy but at the time I thought the asking price was too high. In hindsight, I wish I had done it. But, it was a bit heavier than what I have and launching is one of my biggest challenges. I made a custom launching dolly that works great but I don't think it could handle more weight than what I put on her now.
Ironwood - you obviously really know your stuff and I sincerely appreciate all the sound advice. I want to invite you down so you can see what I put my boat through and how much she can take. We'll catch some fish and you'll enjoy some southern baja hospitality, too!
As far as what I have to work with goes it's very limited. This place is off the grid - we have thirty miles of dirt road to cross before we get to the pot-hole filled two-lane highway where you have to navigate everything from cattle to rattle snakes for an hour and a half before you get to anything resembling a town. But, I do have - or have access to - band saw, table saw, jig saw, drill press, die and tap set, etc. And, I even have some aluminum angle iron. Wish to hell I had some plate stock.
Welding is the challenge. If I had access to a good welder I would cut out the floor plates and replace them - at least where I need to attach the console and T-top. At the very least I would cut them on one end and bend them up so I could slide in a plate to drill and tap. But, alas, I don't. The local guy is a good friend and he is a fantastic fabricator but I know aluminum is a different animal - and this stuff is thin as Ironwood pointed out. So, I decided to weld the two that are broken and move on. We got it done yesterday - it turned out good and seems strong but I didn't want to risk compromising the others that are still solid.
I don't want to cut and remove the foam because, believe it or not, it's wedged in there pretty good and honestly does provide some support for the tin floor plates.
The good news is that the NON ALLOY floor panels are strong as hell (already dulled several jigsaw blades and drill bits, thank you!). So, I'm gonna go ahead with plan Z - I think I've come up with that many by now! A good buddy in Cabo who has been a boat captain for thirty years checked out what I have and his advice was to just epoxy in some T nuts and just screw the floor down and bolt the console and T-top to the NON ALLOY floor. He thinks it will be plenty strong enough. I agree with In2Deep that by sucking the tin floor plates up to the NON ALLOY floor panels I'm going to increase the strength by a good margin. The question is how to do it without either cutting them or removing the foam.
I see two options:
- Lag screw through to the tin floor plates.
- epoxy in the T nuts and apply 5200 to the floor when I set them in so the NON ALLOY and tin floor plates become one.
I think I'm going to do a combination of both. If I lag the console and bait tank in I can suck the tin floor plates up and the 5200 will work it's magic. Then the T-top will bolt into the T nuts in the floor and the sides of the console and bait tank.
I hope this is it because I'm already up to plan Z and I'm not sure if I just start over at A or start going to AA, BB ...
Thanks again for all the advice and support and for enduring this long and rambling post.
Ironwood - you obviously really know your stuff and I sincerely appreciate all the sound advice. I want to invite you down so you can see what I put my boat through and how much she can take. We'll catch some fish and you'll enjoy some southern baja hospitality, too!
As far as what I have to work with goes it's very limited. This place is off the grid - we have thirty miles of dirt road to cross before we get to the pot-hole filled two-lane highway where you have to navigate everything from cattle to rattle snakes for an hour and a half before you get to anything resembling a town. But, I do have - or have access to - band saw, table saw, jig saw, drill press, die and tap set, etc. And, I even have some aluminum angle iron. Wish to hell I had some plate stock.
Welding is the challenge. If I had access to a good welder I would cut out the floor plates and replace them - at least where I need to attach the console and T-top. At the very least I would cut them on one end and bend them up so I could slide in a plate to drill and tap. But, alas, I don't. The local guy is a good friend and he is a fantastic fabricator but I know aluminum is a different animal - and this stuff is thin as Ironwood pointed out. So, I decided to weld the two that are broken and move on. We got it done yesterday - it turned out good and seems strong but I didn't want to risk compromising the others that are still solid.
I don't want to cut and remove the foam because, believe it or not, it's wedged in there pretty good and honestly does provide some support for the tin floor plates.
The good news is that the NON ALLOY floor panels are strong as hell (already dulled several jigsaw blades and drill bits, thank you!). So, I'm gonna go ahead with plan Z - I think I've come up with that many by now! A good buddy in Cabo who has been a boat captain for thirty years checked out what I have and his advice was to just epoxy in some T nuts and just screw the floor down and bolt the console and T-top to the NON ALLOY floor. He thinks it will be plenty strong enough. I agree with In2Deep that by sucking the tin floor plates up to the NON ALLOY floor panels I'm going to increase the strength by a good margin. The question is how to do it without either cutting them or removing the foam.
I see two options:
- Lag screw through to the tin floor plates.
- epoxy in the T nuts and apply 5200 to the floor when I set them in so the NON ALLOY and tin floor plates become one.
I think I'm going to do a combination of both. If I lag the console and bait tank in I can suck the tin floor plates up and the 5200 will work it's magic. Then the T-top will bolt into the T nuts in the floor and the sides of the console and bait tank.
I hope this is it because I'm already up to plan Z and I'm not sure if I just start over at A or start going to AA, BB ...
Thanks again for all the advice and support and for enduring this long and rambling post.
-
Ironwood Boats
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 11:21 am
- 16
- Location: Vancouver BC
- Contact:
I would not think .080" material will hold a threaded fastener for any duration of time.
How about some T Grip Rivets into the .080
Make sure they are stainless steel, most rivets are utility grade aluminum and don't last around saltwater. Also make sure the mandrel is either SS or aluminum. On a 3/16" rivet you can put a 1/4" washer around the top so they will not pull through the NON ALLOY panels.
On any fastener going into the aluminum either put 5200 or Tef-Gel on
The problem will be sealing the rivets. With a panel deck you will never really be able to make it 100% watertight though so sealing the rivets may not be important.
If the plates are 1/4" they will hold a fastener. Instead of drilling and tapping you could use a stainless steel tech screws. They have a drill point on them.
Check the welds from the plates to the frames The welds in your picture above the ones that have cracked look like they could have some more weld. For a one side weld on aluminum it is important that you have a good weld prep (groove) for the filler metal to go into. If there was no weld prep then try not to grind the weld smooth.
Sincerely
John
Ironwood Boats
How about some T Grip Rivets into the .080
Make sure they are stainless steel, most rivets are utility grade aluminum and don't last around saltwater. Also make sure the mandrel is either SS or aluminum. On a 3/16" rivet you can put a 1/4" washer around the top so they will not pull through the NON ALLOY panels.
On any fastener going into the aluminum either put 5200 or Tef-Gel on
The problem will be sealing the rivets. With a panel deck you will never really be able to make it 100% watertight though so sealing the rivets may not be important.
If the plates are 1/4" they will hold a fastener. Instead of drilling and tapping you could use a stainless steel tech screws. They have a drill point on them.
Check the welds from the plates to the frames The welds in your picture above the ones that have cracked look like they could have some more weld. For a one side weld on aluminum it is important that you have a good weld prep (groove) for the filler metal to go into. If there was no weld prep then try not to grind the weld smooth.
Sincerely
John
Ironwood Boats
John,
It's obvious why your boats are so killer. I agree, anything threaded into the .080 probably won't last that long. But, the bulkheads are .125 and I think they will hold fine - they seemed to before - so I'm going to attach there wherever I can. I think if I use the lags to suck the plates and NON ALLOY floor together with 5200 I will create a good bond and the combination of both should last. As you mentioned, I think my biggest challenge is going to be getting them back out if I ever need to.
Wish me luck, I'm on to it today.
It's obvious why your boats are so killer. I agree, anything threaded into the .080 probably won't last that long. But, the bulkheads are .125 and I think they will hold fine - they seemed to before - so I'm going to attach there wherever I can. I think if I use the lags to suck the plates and NON ALLOY floor together with 5200 I will create a good bond and the combination of both should last. As you mentioned, I think my biggest challenge is going to be getting them back out if I ever need to.
Wish me luck, I'm on to it today.
-
IN2DEEP
- WON Super Star Donator '08, '09, '10, '11
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 1:07 pm
- 16
- Location: So. Calif.
Merlin,
I had a feeling that the access to the needed materials might be a problem. Make do with what you got on hand. It's not like you can run down to the metal supply and pick up aluminum plate :roll:
Good luck with your repairs and post some pictures when you get her done.
Scott
I had a feeling that the access to the needed materials might be a problem. Make do with what you got on hand. It's not like you can run down to the metal supply and pick up aluminum plate :roll:
Good luck with your repairs and post some pictures when you get her done.
Scott
1989 22' Walkaround Cuddy Bayrunner
2001 115 Merc. 4 stroke/1988 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke kicker
-
mojomizer
- Contributor/Donator '08
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2008 4:38 pm
- 16
- Location: Orange County
Merlin, Geeze....... I think your boat is awsome........ You have caught alot of fish from your platform. Some which people can only dream of as a private boater. It has gotten you far out to sea and home safely. As a wise man once said or was it a wise guy " another successful trip we did not sink the boat, get arrested, or towed."
Show us your handywork..... Show us more fish.....have fun and be safe. The Pacific side of Baja can be a very unforgiving. What do you have for emergency purposes? How do you prep the boat for a fishing excursion?
Mark
Show us your handywork..... Show us more fish.....have fun and be safe. The Pacific side of Baja can be a very unforgiving. What do you have for emergency purposes? How do you prep the boat for a fishing excursion?
Mark
Mark
2325 WA PACIFICSKIFF
2325 WA PACIFICSKIFF
Thanks for the kind words. I love my boat! And, you're right, we've managed to catch a lot of fish - more to come.
One of the things I love about this place is that you usually don't have to go very far out to find fish. We like to fish the 90% zone which is where we catch just about everything within ten miles of shore. Because the boat is small and light we save the offshore adventures for the right day. Weather permitting, I've run fifty out. The bank out there is incredibly productive - some really amazing fishing.
Of course, you brought up a good point - safety. Even in the 90% zone you have to be prepared. A ten mile swim is basically impossible for most people. There's no vessel assist around here but it's a close knit group of local fisherman and we all look after each other and I have a radio at home and stay in constant contact. When you run offshore you are alone so you better be prepared.
First off, the boat is run by a 130hp Honda - very dependable - with a 15hp Honda kicker - very dependable. Along with that there is a storage locker full of parts, spare prop, tools, extra filters, manual, etc. I think you saw the two fuel tanks under the floor, lots of range.
I also have some good gear on board and have organized things so I can get to them quickly - two ditch bags with life vests, first-aid kit, handheld vhf, flare guns, etc. I have one survival suit that we get to fight over and I keep a couple of wetsuits on board which will help for a while. Like I said, this is all organized so I can ditch it and swim to it if need be.
For offshore days I carry extra fresh water. I also added a small solar panel to keep the battery charged if we lose power. If we are drifting we can last for quite a while.
I'm adding an epirb to make the list complete.
I think that's just about everything, I may have forgotten something but you get the idea - safe boating is no accident. All suggestions are welcome for anything I might have overlooked.
I have a long run planned for later this year. I'm going to run offshore and fish my way down to Mag Bay and then return up through the mangroves so the uphill ride is almost all inside. All off the beaten path so it pays to be prepared.
One of the things I love about this place is that you usually don't have to go very far out to find fish. We like to fish the 90% zone which is where we catch just about everything within ten miles of shore. Because the boat is small and light we save the offshore adventures for the right day. Weather permitting, I've run fifty out. The bank out there is incredibly productive - some really amazing fishing.
Of course, you brought up a good point - safety. Even in the 90% zone you have to be prepared. A ten mile swim is basically impossible for most people. There's no vessel assist around here but it's a close knit group of local fisherman and we all look after each other and I have a radio at home and stay in constant contact. When you run offshore you are alone so you better be prepared.
First off, the boat is run by a 130hp Honda - very dependable - with a 15hp Honda kicker - very dependable. Along with that there is a storage locker full of parts, spare prop, tools, extra filters, manual, etc. I think you saw the two fuel tanks under the floor, lots of range.
I also have some good gear on board and have organized things so I can get to them quickly - two ditch bags with life vests, first-aid kit, handheld vhf, flare guns, etc. I have one survival suit that we get to fight over and I keep a couple of wetsuits on board which will help for a while. Like I said, this is all organized so I can ditch it and swim to it if need be.
For offshore days I carry extra fresh water. I also added a small solar panel to keep the battery charged if we lose power. If we are drifting we can last for quite a while.
I'm adding an epirb to make the list complete.
I think that's just about everything, I may have forgotten something but you get the idea - safe boating is no accident. All suggestions are welcome for anything I might have overlooked.
I have a long run planned for later this year. I'm going to run offshore and fish my way down to Mag Bay and then return up through the mangroves so the uphill ride is almost all inside. All off the beaten path so it pays to be prepared.
-
IN2DEEP
- WON Super Star Donator '08, '09, '10, '11
- Posts: 638
- Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 1:07 pm
- 16
- Location: So. Calif.
Merlin,
It sounds as if you've got all the safety basics covered
One other thing that I didn't mention about drilling NON ALLOY is to clamp a piece of plywood to the farside of the holes that you are drilling to lessen the chance of that side splintering.
It helps to keep the speeds down of your drills and saw blades to help extend their life on NON ALLOY.
Scott
It sounds as if you've got all the safety basics covered
One other thing that I didn't mention about drilling NON ALLOY is to clamp a piece of plywood to the farside of the holes that you are drilling to lessen the chance of that side splintering.
It helps to keep the speeds down of your drills and saw blades to help extend their life on NON ALLOY.
Scott
1989 22' Walkaround Cuddy Bayrunner
2001 115 Merc. 4 stroke/1988 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke kicker