Cockpit space and offshore brackets

[JETTYWOLF]

I really like that boat.....and I'm a CC kinda guy. But that SeaArk is unique that baby will turn heads for another 20 years.

I've always like the big "arks".

MORE PLEASE

[Gypseas]

That is one sharp looking boat!

Very impressed with how it turned out

cheers

[Sjoman]

Finally back at my house and all systems go. Sea-trial this weekend.

[goatram]

In time to still get some fishing in.

Nice thread and a great result. Did you throu bolt that kicker?

[Sjoman]

Thanks Goatram, yes we through bolted the kicker. Should have the remote controlls from Ballard marine tomorrow and will go for some Coho action after the weekend rush on Monday.

[Gypseas]

Where the gunnels meet the sides, the black round stripe thingy is it part of the boat or is it a "d" bumper bolted to the hull?

cheers

[JETTYWOLF]

Damn that boat is seriously Unique. Very Nice, turned out super

[Sjoman]

Where the gunnels meet the sides, the black round stripe thingy is it part of the boat or is it a "d" bumper bolted to the hull?

cheers

Yes the thingy is a D bumper bolted to the hull. This was a big selling feature for me since I'm such a klutz at docking :)

[Gypseas]

Sorry, don't mean to spoil the party but i am in the process of removing mine due to a start of crevice corrosion around where the bolts hold the bumper tight to the hull. Some spots are better and some worse even though the boat, which I moor, was always splashed with fresh water after each outing.
I really like the rub rail you just had installed, probably going to have something like that done myself.
cheers

[Sjoman]

So it has been over a year since I posted anything on AAB. The rebuild of my SeaArk was nothing but positive and we enjoyed a great fishing season on the Puget Sound. However, there were some issues with the slop-well that I had to deal with and after long deliberation we decided to put on an off-shore bracket (I know I should have listened to several AAB members). Anyway the conversion has started and should be done in a few weeks. We are adding about 9 qft, so close to 600 lbs. of lift and hopefully no more wet feet while trolling or fighting fish in following seas.

[welder]

Looking forward to more pictures.

[goatram]

I Love mods!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Simply the best to see Pictures with explanations I see the Meat axe in the well under the Piece of metal with the hand attached to it still.

Tomorrow I will update my thread. It is updated on BD just need to transfer Pictures to the computer from BD then upload to here. I so need tapatalk back.

[Chaps]

Dang, do-overs happen! You are into it now but did you consider trying ball scuppers to control water ingress? Or were you having other issues related to the slop well?

[Sjoman]

I Love mods!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Simply the best to see Pictures with explanations I see the Meat axe in the well under the Piece of metal with the hand attached to it still.

Tomorrow I will update my thread. It is updated on BD just need to transfer Pictures to the computer from BD then upload to here. I so need tapatalk back.

The cut out on each side of the slop-well are the new scuppers. A u channel will be welded to the backside of the off-shore bracket deck and tie in to the transom serving dual purpose as scupper/extra brazing.

[Sjoman]

Dang, do-overs happen! You are into it now but did you consider trying ball scuppers to control water ingress? Or were you having other issues related to the slop well?

It’s sort of a long and kind of embarrassing story. Short version is that we made some design errors causing the boat to take on water in following seas. The remedies would have been extensive and not really that good of a solution. I really like this boat and decided that the current plan will totally eliminate previous problems.

[Sjoman]

I am moving the motor back 30" and raising it 4". I have read on previous posts that you can/should raise it 1 1/2 " for every foot you move it back... Opinions

[goatram]

I heard it was 1" for every foot. 2.5". You could get a Manual Jack Plate and play for a day on the Lake to dial it in. Cost $265? at three rivers marine in woodinville. That is where I got mine at. then you would be three inches up cause you would be 36" aft

[Chaps]

I am moving the motor back 30" and raising it 4". I have read on previous posts that you can/should raise it 1 1/2 " for every foot you move it back... Opinions

I'm not so sure that applies to engines mounted on full flotation brackets like the one you are building as opposed to the set-back (non floater) style of bracket.

. . . . . . . .

I'm curious to know if the boat had water ingress problems prior to the original mod? Your learning experience (however embarrassing) could be valuable for the group, might help someone avoid a similar expensive (or dangerous) mistake.

[Sjoman]

I am moving the motor back 30" and raising it 4". I have read on previous posts that you can/should raise it 1 1/2 " for every foot you move it back... Opinions

I'm not so sure that applies to engines mounted on full flotation brackets like the one you are building as opposed to the set-back (non floater) style of bracket.

. . . . . . . .

I'm curious to know if the boat had water ingress problems prior to the original mod? Your learning experience (however embarrassing) could be valuable for the group, might help someone avoid a similar expensive (or dangerous) mistake.

The flotation sits up from the bottom of the hull about 3" and have a gradual aft taper, as seen in the pic. I agree that if we would have followed the hull line the 1 1/2" per foot formula would not apply. But know I'm not so sure therefore my original question.

Regarding the water ingress issue; The acces hole for the cables, hoses and wiring was to low and to far aft. In following seas water would enter the hull. The bilge pump would handle this but I was not happy with the outcome when the pump one day shorted out.

[Napa Mike]

I think you will be a lot happier with a bracket. Thanks for sharing your pics. We look forward to more, and hope this mod dials you in just right!

Mike

[Chaps]

Yeah, a rigging grommet in a spashwell can be a real problem with respect to water intrusion. Use of a rigging tube is the way to go with either a splashwell or a bracket

MacCTD's boat



Your bracket - I thought it was a true hull extension. Yeah, you'll likely be OK raising the motor a bit, I'd try and place the aft mount plate such that the engine has some adjustment range up and down from your best guess location on the mounting bolt holes.

Its not an exact science (motor height) as I've found on my rig with the porta-bracket. I can hydraulically raise or lower my engine over a 17" vertical range with the bracket while underway and the ideal running position changes depending on how the boat is loaded, sea state, what I'm wanting to do, etc. For instance, If I'm interested in maximizing fuel economy, am lightly loaded and I'm going to make a long run to a destination I'll start with the engine at a normal depth, get the boat up on plane, throttle back to desired speed, set the pilot then start raising the engine until I detect the prop starting to break loose (rpm starts creeping up), then I drop it back down about an inch. In that state the motor is very high with the prop barely submerged and the skeg on the lower unit is almost even with the keel. That's a great setting for reducing drag and gas usage but if I make any kind of an abrupt turn the prop blows out so for normal use the bracket needs to be set lower. On the other hand if I'm out in real snotty conditions and find I'm loosing grip occasionally I'll keep dropping the engine until the prop is consistently running in solid water and staying hooked up. The point of all this being that an ideal engine height can vary depending on the boat, deadrise, prop type, how you normally load it, what conditions you typically operate in, etc.

[Sjoman]

Thanks Chaps, highly appreciate your input. I will set the motor 3" above previous height with the option to raise it some more. I always thought it was low in the original slop-well, as per picture. While I'm at it the fuel tank will be moved 18" forward to help the weight distribution.

[Sjoman]

4 weeks after the project started we (Kyle) is making good progress. Just some final welding on the bracket and in the cockpit, slap on some paint and we are done. I am trying to talk him in to a fish-box in the floor since we are moving the fuel tank forward 24" and will have plenty of room. A rail of some sort is also on the list, so I don't go overboard fighting that trophy size Chinook next year (necessary being 6'7")
After this seasons close call I am also adding a second 750g/h bilge pumps, and no more float switches.