Conchfish AL 17.6T build

[m32825]

Heater worked great today, warmed up the shop from 48 to 58 in about an hour.

Straightened out the curve in the vertical. Working on stitching the floor support angles to the transverse frames.

-- Carl

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[kmorin]

Carl, haven't been around to post much for a week or so - just catching up.
Looks like all the items are covered but the one about an edge being low?  If I understand which edge (red arrow?) is low then you've covered most of the techniques to 'add to' the edge of the vertical.

Any of these will work- adding a flat bar inside only requires that you weld all the sides of the inside to keep the inner space between the flat bars as a site that will create crevice corrosion.  The outside of that  bar, just inboard of the vertical would also be a very slight part of the weld joint at the eventual chine.  The method will work but does require some additional welding & maybe should be back gouged out once the sheet is tacked on to a straight edge.

One method you didn't mention is to use a series of single drop/dime/point tacks along this low edge. Placing these tacks along the edge every 1" to 1-1/2" allows you to come back with a straight edge and dress the tacks' tops flat with the line of the vertical bar, fore and aft of the low spot.

This allows a series of support points for tacks of the bottom sheet to the vertical's edge in a straight line but that results in short gaps between the bottom sheet and upper edge of the vertical plate.  Those won't be a problem in 1" long gaps and will weld fine. 

You may need a back up bar to do those welds? where a pc. of SS round bar (3/8"dia.) will back up the weld zone fine.  It will 'stick' to the weld but tap loose and leave the inside of the weld fine.  Wire brush the inside and weld over it... or back gouge a little and weld that- either way this method won't leave a cup in the bottom panel and won't require full length edge welding that might make more contraction problems that aren't needed.

The next is just my few cents about a hull joint shown.
I've mentioned before that I consider the outer chine joint T-fillet (shown in the lower right of Pic..#5627 just below and right of the tape measure sitting on the chine flat) to be less than optimal to the hull's construction.

The weld implied (T-fillet outside with no bevel inside another T-fillet) leaves less than full penetration and therefore builds in a location for crevice corrosion as there's very little method to air test this "between welds" void. Absent an air test I'd assure you there will be liquid sucked into this void because the welds aren't necessarily sealed to vacuum, which will happen when the hull is in water cooler than your shop when this is welded.

Since you've gone to the detail of adjusting the original materials to fit slightly different seam changes already: I suggest you might consider trimming that seam to an inside-edge-to-inside-edge seam for better quality welding. You can easily get to the seam, now, and router the edge off- using the bearing laying on the chine flat as a guide- w 1/4" bearing dia. smaller than wings of bit.  Cut a few inches, tack.... cut a few inches...

There is no gain to helm stability to this tiny vertical bar with a weld inside it.  There is really no shape gain that I'm aware and the improvement to that welded seam will be noticeable when you  put the welds in.

looks good,

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
 

[m32825]

Kevin,

You've given me another option to mull over. I will mock up a drop/dime/point joint and experiment.

I'm with you on the little verticals, I'm going to trim them to an open corner as you suggest. If the boat slides too much I could experiment with adding whatever size fins I want.

Now that I'm thinking about trimming that joint down, there are a couple more joints where a vertical rests on top of a chine flat instead of forming an open corner. Maybe I should consider trimming them as well?

-- Carl

[kmorin]

Carl,
regarding shape and tracking the hull to helm.....or 'sliding' in a turn....

I'm going to trim them to an open corner as you suggest. If the boat slides too much I could experiment with adding whatever size fins I want.


 

I notice in the photos a 2" or 3"    VERTICAL    hull element only a few inches away from the proposed trimmed panel overhang.

The hull is symmetrical about the keel plane; so there are more than one of these, above mentioned, vertical hull transition plates and if I'm not mistaken their contribution to resisting any potential "slides too much".... will be countless orders of magnitude greater than a 3/8" or 1/2" plate overhang joint?

The 'huge' vertical area of one side's vertical bar will work as a 'keel area' when turning.  If you turn to port; then the starboard side vertical chine element is 'stopping' slide just as the opposite turn is stopped by the other side's vertical.  A fraction of an inch of sheet overhanging the joint is question isn't likely to provide much keel surface to resist the sliding/slip/chine skip vector.

IMO, the hull will track closer to a "freight train in Kansas" than a skiff.  If I understand the Body Section Plan (?) you have a couple of 2-3" verticals below the water line?  The skiff is less than 20'LOA, I'm not sure you'll need to concern your self with the skiff "sliding too much"?

Perhaps, if your hull heels sufficiently, in a turn @ speed, to 'dry out' the outboard chine vertical bar? then the hull might 'slide' or drift in a turn? However, the power you've mentioned and the overall Body Section Plan don't suggest the hull will heel to that degree so IMO the outboard (in a turn) vertical will probably keep her from sliding? Since she's very low deadrise/flattish between the two main chines .... I'm not seeing her heeling much - but then I'm not sure how the tunnel will impact the hull's planing attitude?

I think the turn radius, while on step, will be very much wider than most skiffs this size exactly due to that chine and its vertical component in the Body Section.  In my skiff design, 18'- 24' LOA commercial set net skiffs for 2-6' seas, with 6-12 knots of tidal current (@ 90 degrees to most headings picking up the net); I very intentionally tapered the chine (aft the Master Section, in Plan View) to allow the helm to be very sensitive to 'hard-over' so the skiff could 'pivot' and allow the fishermen to pickup a buoy floating on the swells in a breeze.  I'm pretty sure those chine verticals, in your skiff, will keep your helm steady and the turns wide and gentle at any kind of planing speeds?

Re hull panel seams' cross section:
I haven't seen any hull panel longitudinal seam that is better in the T-fillet construction over the inside edge/outside full fusion resulting from that joint's two back to back welds in any hulls except where there was a triangular box formed by the hull panels and an added chine flat and those just about have to be air-tested to be reliable. 

The quality of fusion resulting from the inside edge joint, welded both sides, is very durable and well known in jet riverboat chine rock impact compared to other weld seams' cross sections.  While you'll have to decide for your build and use... I'd say if you can get to the seams with the tools you've designed for trimming: It will be worth the time to improve the hull seams in your build.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK




 
 

[m32825]

Kevin,

Good context and elaboration. Design requires trade-offs, so one has to prioritize. In this boat's case the top priority is shallow water performance. This video clip is an example, not much slaloming going on there. The guys with non aluminum alloy versions of this hull report having to intentionally try to get much of a slide going. Feedback on the the "keellettes" is mixed, no conclusive data.

    -- Carl
 
 
 

[m32825]

I got some new TIG accessories and tried them out. Added a TIG Button to take the place of the pedal, it has been pretty easy to get used to. Trying a pyrex cup for the first time. Not sure how durable it is but I sure can see better!

-- Carl

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[starbright55]

Let me know what you think about the tig button - I've almost ordered it a few time.

I feel like it might be more intuitive than the foot pedal and I would love to not have to balance on one foot in some positions (I know the really good guys can use a straight on/off button in place of a foot pedal but I'm no where close to that)

[kmorin]

Carl, starbrite55,Welding, especially with two handed TIG dip-rod techniques, requires plenty enough body position and access without trying to position your wt. on one leg so you can use a pedal control to modulate amperage. 

I would say my TIG welding took a turn for the positive- in overall boat welding off the bench- when I moved to my first on torch controls.  Before that, I'd try to move to the 'next' weld and have to drag/carry/place/locate the pedal to complete setting up for the next weld.  

Pedals are great controls for bench welding where you're often seated and don't have to carry all your wt and balance on one leg in order to get control of the weld 'heat'.  However, even sitting at the bench, it's easy to find yourself moving the pedal around to get different angles to work comfortably.  The only advantage to the pedal, IMO, is where you're production welding in one single position and doing repetitive work all day.  

Hull welds are almost all different in some aspect compared to bench work.  Almost any hull weld, even if you're just doing the last few inches of a seam, requires some adjustment to the position to weld.  Regardless if you need to move your feet, lean one way or another, stretch a little to get correct torch angle or make any other stance and position adjustment; dragging a pedal around is just more time consumed and further delay in the project to get quality weld position of the body holding the torch and filler.

Any time you move inside the hull, w/o a rotisserie so you can stay standing on the shop floor, then pedals become a huge detriment to good welds.  Under the arm? Between the knees? lean on it against the side of the hull? 

The gymnastics required to use a pedal for many welds inside a hull are not worth discussing. Regardless if you use a torch mounted slider, roller pot, or TigFinger (tm) to control the weld current, doing the adjustments with your fingers is more agile than doing that same adjustment with your foot.  Clear cups, gas lenses, button controls all add to a better view of the weld, and better welds result- IMO.

Just an old geezer's view looking back on lots of welded aluminum hulls from a few feet to 42' LOA and the welding done to build them.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
 

[m32825]

Really liking my latest accessories, I'm putting the foot pedal on the shelf and not looking back! Some practice putting dots every inch this evening.

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[kmorin]

Carl, since you didn't show the 'dip' or edge retraction of the plate in question (?) I'll remark about using a 'long board' in general.

To level a set of tacks you'd use a long board. The term refers to a rigid 'plane' tool that is longer than the area of the dip. The reason to be longer is that a shorter bed or leveling surface can follow or dip into the area that you're trying to level to the two, fore and aft, areas of the edge to be faired as flat.

This term is also used to describe a similar but flexible base tool used to sand hulls fair.  In that case the the tool's base is rigid in any one inch span but flexible over 4-6' so it will conform to hull curves but will also sand smooth 1"-2" higher spots on the surface of boats' hulls.  This is a tool most often seen where plastic filler is troweled onto the hull's surface to become sanded to a fine finish like yachts' hulls.

Any aluminum angle that is clean and not bowed, any flat bar that has another tacked to the back or any T extrusion will usually work to make a long board for truing an edge.  Using spray-on contact cement- glue a full-length of abrasive cloth [ https://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/p ... cloth-roll ]  to the flat surface of the tool/extrusion and use it like a plane over the tops of the tacks. Want to make sure you don't trail off or stroke too long and dip the end of the tool into the low spot.

Key here, is to keep the ends of the tool over the areas of the edge of the material where they stop the tool from cutting below the correct depth. Let the tool ride on the tacks that are higher but don't allow a full stroke of the end of the long board to drop into the dip in the middle, or you're likely to have to renew the tacks and go back to true the edge. Hold the tool at the ends and use your fingers to wrap the tool and plate edge to guide the tool in short 2-4" strokes so the work is done by grinding/sanding the high spots of your tacks- and can't go deeper into the sheet edge than the two ends of the dip area.

This will reliably renew the 'tacked up edge' of a curved plate that you want straight.  80,100, 120 grit are all that's needed to get a few decent cuts on those tacks. They can be checked for smooth to the leading and trailing edges of the plate edge using the long board, sighting under the surface or any other straight edge.

Since you'd be using the inner edge of the vertical bar as the guide for your tack up.... make sure you start the entire process by dressing the tack's inboard most edges so when you've dressed the tops flat... there's remains a guide line for your sheet edge along the tacks' inner vertical edge.

Easy and pretty quick fix to what I understand is a slight cup/dip/downward curve in the vertical edge that will eventually be about 90 to the remaining bottom panel's outer edge??

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
 
 
 
 
 
 

[m32825]

Kevin,

Great explanation, as usual. I'm in luck to have an edge to use as a reference. I'm using my good edge for the pictures below. I need to work on the vertical edge of the back six feet, up to the tape measure in the first picture.

It may not come across very well, but as one follows the edge forward it has curvature both horizontally and vertically. I put a piece of 1x2 inch rectangular tube in the last two pictures as a straight line reference.

I can see your approach working with a little adaptation. I've got hard reference points for the height the edge should be at each transverse frame. Once those are the right height I can work on one in-between section at a time. I can use the good edge as a reference to make a "long board" spanning between two references that matches the curvature, then bring the middle points down until the ends touch the references.

    -- Carl

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[kmorin]

Carl, before working on the hull's lines/edges of plates could you do a couple of tests?

First, can you put the long straight edge on the after 4-6' of that vertical edge?  Push it down to the aft most point and see where is lays on the rest of that edge?  The reason is to eliminate the possibility that this is not a curve/bulge/hogg but is instead a line aft that begins to lift from a tangent point to rise and become a chine line in Profile View?

If there is a hogg or curvature in that vertical chine pc... it may be intended?  If there were a base line and rise in the Profile View, then a straight edge could show this image and the hull lines might still be correct?  IF you have a lines drawing and the designer doesn't mind you posting it (?) it would be very helpful to see this particular chine in Profile View BEFORE you begin any adjustments.....

The next image that would be very helpful is to lay the sq tube/extrusion flat to the horizontal chine and not let it balance or ride on the apparent 'high spot'... simple hold it down to the after 2' of the chine flat and show an image identical to the one numbered '..7147 ?

those two images would be from the same camera angle/aspect to hull as 7147 and show any differences between the chine flat's relative curve and that of the vertical bar's upper edge.

Then, if possible please repeat the same images from the other side of the hull?

I'm not totally sure I understand the hull's lines and don't want to agree this are is mis-formed until I can see (A) preferably, the hull lines sheet; & (B) a comparison from side to side; & (C) by comparing those images to understand if there is a real deformity or if this straight edge's location could be misrepresenting the intended shape of the hull??

If time allows to make these images it would help me to understand more completely about the hull as its tacked up so far.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
 

[kmorin]

 Carl,

in order to try to make a little more sense of my questions about your current hull shape, I'll try to show some images that present the issues about which I have questions.  I'm hopeful the images will help correlate my previous questions about the hull and the straight edge images and their implications to me.

I think I have a thread here somewhere about the lines of a hull.  If not I can find the online link and post that. 

The question I have about your hull has to do the the Buttock Lines of the hull that is sitting on your building jib as compared to the general planing hull regardless of size.  I'm pretty sure we can all agree that the Butt Lines of a planing hull need to descent all the way to the stern, in relationship to the Water Plane / Waterlines at rest? 

There can be some very slight (inches or less- even on very large hulls) of 'rise' in the after Butt Lines but if the rise is more than a very small amount- the hull will squat unless it has sufficient power to 'climb' the wake at which time it will porpoise or 'lope' where the bow will pitch up and then down in some rhythm dependent on speed and the amount of wt aft of the downward 'bulge'/curve of the Butt Lines/hogg in Profile View.

chine to chine view of planing hull

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First, these images are older, done at low resolution, so the lines are little crude.  Second the view here is from the after starboard quarter looking forward to show the Waterlines (at rest) and the approximate 1/4 Butt Line. Finally, the intent here is to help visualize the lines' references and show what question I'm trying to raise/resolve/determine/answer.

There are four Waterlines/water planes shown and only one Butt Line.  The Butt Line is a cut parallel to the keel lengthwise through the hull; while the Water planes are at right angles to the Keel, horizontal and parallel to the waterline of the hull at rest.  The concern about your hull is with the Buttock Lines shape viewed in Profile, and the impact on waterline lines or 'running waterlines' as a result of the shape of the Butt Lines.

Under hull FB's on Buttock Lines

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This view is to help explain why I've asked for photos with the straight edge pressed to the transom- so the curve of the chine/hull/Buttock Line of your hull can be shown.  The title is a little off- the outer FB is on a Waterline's after intersection with the V of this hull.  Here the FB's are laid flat to the after most few feet of hull so the rise of the Buttock Lines can be clearly and simply checked. 

What a planing hull can't easily tolerate is for the Butt Lines to be curved aft - or 'rise' aft in Profile View; they have to be flat or descending all the way to the transom.  Their measurement/gauging/shape confirmation on your hull is why I'd asked for the different images.

Under Hull, FB's forward ends

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This is the same image as above from the forward quarter to show the red triangles' gap between a straight line aft and any point forward of the straight after sections.  Here, the bars are flat to the after most bottom and show a rise of both Butt Lines, one drawn and the other at the outer edge of a Waterline.

The red triangles' vertical legs are the distance ABOVE... the flat after plane of the Buttock Lines intersection with the hull bottom at the forward end of each of the FB's.

Now ONE OF the Main points of this post. IF you rocked these FB's forward ends, upward in this view... you could have a gap both fore and aft .... making it appear there was a bulge in the bottom or inferring there was an unfair edge to the vertical chine element in your photos.  So, I'm asking if your square tube straight edge is showing an unfair edge/bottom? Or, if the straight edge were held tight to the after most end (2'-3') of the chine edge's run- would there be a straight line aft? and the chine rise forward. NOTE... your chine vertical bar's (now upper) edge is located as a Buttock Line for the after 2/3 or the hull, roughly.

non-planing hull w Waterline & Buttock Lines

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This image of a little row boat shows the Butt Lines rising aft as in a displacement hull that is very hard to push with enough force to get it to plane.  This entire post was to  help you see what I'm questioning about the current build?  I could be wrong as rain, and many time I am.... so the straight edge test - or change in positioning of the straight edge in photos is to try to look at the hull from another point of view and discover if there is a mis-shaped chine OR.... if that line is supposed  to begin rising a couple of feet forward the transom?

That is also why I'd asked to see the Lines Plan of the skiff, w/o building details if possible? These views and information may mean the hull's lines are fine, and there is no actual need to dress the vertical chine bar's edge where it meets the bottom?

Hope this isn't too much to get across in text?  I do think this is potentially important to decide/discern/determine before you trim any more on the hull elements.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK
 
 

[m32825]

Kevin,

I'm hesitant to post plan details because it's not my intellectual property, I don't want to cross the line. Let me check with Nathan and see if there's a way I can provide you more to work with. I can understand how frustrating it must be, like having one hand tied behind your back while trying to help.

-- Carl

[m32825]

Kevin,

I like how you check assumptions. Trying to help someone figure out how to adjust a complex 3D shape via 2D pictures has a high degree of difficulty! Let me circle back and provide more context for the current issue.
​​​​​
I know the height of that part is short because I noticed something different before I tacked it. I already had the other side tacked, but I was able to line both up and see that they were substantially the same shape, only the one in question was a little shorter on a portion of the curved side. I verified this by printing out a full-sized outline of the part from the cut sheet and comparing it. Allowing for this known difference, both sides of the hull are symmetric, fair, and flat over the last few feet.

For scale, my reference bar is 6' long. The outside edge of the inner panel is flat for the back 3', and rises 1/4" inch at the 6' mark.

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Here's how I clamped the reference bar for the chine vertical. It's hard to see in this photo but as you move towards the front the vertical begins to turn inwards, reaching 3/4" by the 6' mark. 
 

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The chine vertical is flat over the back 2.5' and rises to 3/4" by the 6' mark.

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I would show you pictures of the side I'm adjusting, but I've already started adjusting it to match what you see.

    -- Carl
 
 
 

[kmorin]

Carl, very glad to hear you'd already checked the relevant shape implications and that my questions weren't founded in the hull's shape.

I've been involved in several 'online' boat projects and sometimes what I'd tried to communicate, thought I'd explained... didn't transfer reliably in the text/digital media exchange.  There's a bit of a two edged sword to our comm.s  ..... one is the positive that we can share our (my) past mistakes with others with the benefit of reducing learning the hard way on new projects.  The downside/back edge of blade is miscommunication leading to bigger mistakes than we were trying to avoid.

So, I've tried to illustrate the questions being discussed when there's pages of text required to explain why or what is at issue.  I'm thankful that you're able to understand what's being discussed with very minimal exchange and continue to think for yourself as the primary problem solver- as are all boat builders for their own build.

Was relieved to read your latest post since fiddling with the entire after bottom would be a bit of a chore at this point in the build!

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

 
 

[m32825]

Kevin,

I agree wholeheartedly with your observations. I wonder what the future holds for forums such as this one? None of the social media alternatives I've seen offer the combination of threaded conversations, persistence (or history), and the ability to search. Those attributes are important for people who want to learn how to do things. Well before I started my build I was reading threads by you and Yofish absorbing what I could.

Social media seems much less about learning how to do things and more about "look at me", "look at what I did" or "look at what I have". It also tends not to be an encouraging environment in which to try to learn a new skill. Part of learning a new skill involves not being good at it for a while, and learning to critique your own work. The social media outlets allow everyone to see the "best of the best", but few people share their learning stages because it's a very judgy environment. I feel like this discourages people from trying new things. We're becoming consumers as opposed to producers, and that's not all good.

Okay, enough philosophy for today. Made good progress on raising the edge. I saw a tip somewhere that suggested using a sewing gauge to mark evenly spaced intervals (think button placement), it works really well.

-- Carl

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[m32825]

Next up, welding this joint. I was going to trim it and turn it into an inside corner... until I realized that little lip supports the sides of the cockpit floor. I guess I could trim the part that's not in the cockpit area?

-- Carl

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[kmorin]

Carl,
Is your cockpit/open deck area from Station #12 forward to Station#15?  If so, I don't see that the cockpit sole (decking) needs to be supported by just the small overhang lip?

It looks to me like that decking could be (is to be) extended several inches outboard of the Chine Vertical (hull pc. #3) and have full support? Ref.  Sheet 6; Section B-B;  showing the cockpit sole overhanging this joint; outboard.

Not sure I'm clear on this joint? I'd say trimming it so you have an 'inside corner' type fit would allow you to weld it later in the sequence of the build?   IF you're forced to weld it now... you'll have to deal with too much contraction of this 'pocket chine' which may deform.

I'd trim it, re-new the tacks as you trim #4 to an inside corner w #3, and plan to extend the decking outboard - 3/4 to 1" (min.) of the vertical chine component bar (#3) and not keep the joint at a T-fillet that needs to be fully welded before the entire hull is tacked up... and put on the rotisserie... and welding can proceed in a balanced pattern.

Can't see the reasoning for this joint's design decision to be a T-fillet that is required to be welded full length before the last bottom panel covers it?  I'd trim it.

I don't want to weld any hull seams full length until I get the hull fully tacked up so I can plan the overall weld pattern to minimize contraction and distortion.

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

 
 

[kmorin]

Carl, I don't know the future of the specialty Forum sites but as long as there is interest, readership and dues or advertising, I suspect they'll continue?

I haven't been a part of the general social media like F'book, Instagram and Tweeting (X-ing?) so I'm not very familiar with those general trends.  I do notice that most readers, even of specialty Forum sites, tend to read but not post or participate in discussions/threads. Not a few members have PM'd me to ask or discuss something they don't want to discuss online.  So, I think there is an overall "shyness" of the majority of site readers to ask questions publicly and appear to be uninformed or "ignorant".

I think that is a wide spread tendency to avoid 'self-assigned' embarrassment?  I term this tendency self-assigned as I'm not sure others think poorly of someone who asks questions online?  However, if someone asked a question on one site and got all sorts of non-productive replies then when that potential poster gets here... they're likely conditioned not to show their state of knowledge for fear of more of the type of past rude replies.

I've seen lots of posts prefaced by " I know this is a dumb question, but...." I don't think it's dumb not to know something.  But many people have personal sensitivities to their sense of knowledge, while many others don't think poorly of someone for not 'knowing'.

I read and post on sites where the new members are sometimes treated poorly, and have been accused of that treatment of newbies myself.  I have learned to be more careful about word choice and observations over the years in order not to have my remarks misconstrued or interpreted in tone and manner not intended.  But even with that, I still have negative remarks about my replies regarding someone asking questions.

As someone with 'been there done that and have the T-shirt' experience in some topics, like smaller welded aluminum boats, I try to keep in mind that the AAB.com Forum won't be much help in educating others if my remarks are taken as just finding fault with posters I'm trying to respond to.

I do recall my own very steep learning curve and try to reply as neutrally as I can.

On the other hand, I've seen many new posters come to sites, like the AAB.com Forum, and ask questions about topics that have been extensively explored in multiple threads (archived) their questions indicating the new poster hasn't taken time to do even basic research before asking others for time in reply.

Its not hard to feel that is less respectful of the site's members than need be; especially if you're one of the long time posters who've engaged in the same topic over and over. I think its good manners to read the site's archives on the topic in question before posting questions out of the blue?  But not everyone takes time to read the site's archive and that can be a cause of less receptive replies.

As you note, learning new skills implies a period of time when your skills are not refined.; by definition.  Many people are too shy to share their work product and therefore avoid the embarrassment of having less refined skills shown. On the other hand, potential posters, who don't post, also defeat their chance of having someone look at the work (welding, fitting, design, mechanical installations) and suggest methods of improvement.

My hope is that more people like you will decide they can build their own welded aluminum boat and this site will be a valuable resource for them in that process?  I think the AAB.com Forum is most interested in owner build threads over all types of topics that are hosted here? 

Not easy to reply to your remarks w/o getting long winded but then - so are most of my posts!

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

 
 

[gandrfab]

A lot is lost in text, a nod, emotion, little tells and quirks that help keep an even keel.
I know I used to read with a very dry feeling and easily got irritated without those tells.

Kind of like

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF5FWbl1NVk

[kmorin]

G&R, I agree face to face is probably the best way to get the most out of communicating with someone else, but Forum type sites have the benefits of long recalled archives and images/pictures that may be thousands of words?

Cheers,
Kevin Morin
Kenai, AK

[m32825]

Tacked  up for trimming...

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[m32825]

I decided to remove the keelettes. I like them as a design detail but I couldn't figure out how to weld them without melting them. Converted the joint to an open corner for better strength.

I sometimes wish my boat had three signs instead of two. On the first side I'm figuring out what I'm doing, on the second side I'm getting better at it. It would be nice to have a third side where I can enjoy knowing what I'm doing the whole way. Maybe that's what the next boat is for? 

    -- Carl

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[Buskin]

What a great discussion and build.