My 26' islander has the factory paint on it. Its in decent shape but could use a revisit. I'm intending to repaint the existing painted area which is above the waterline. Beneath the waterline is bare and I'll keep it that way. My question is what is the best product to repaint this with? There is a PPG dealer down the street but I'm not sure of automotive paint. I could also go with Trilux or Petit. I was looking at the Trilux perfection and it says roll and tip only unless you have positive ventilation. Does this stuff really go on well with roll and tip? I have never seen a brush job that looks nearly as smooth as spray. Any ideas? I have done some paint jobs on cars and a boat in the past which all came out well. I'm looking for a nice result that would look professional. I'll be doing a solid prep and prime before color but I don't have enough experience with marine paints to say. I'm looking for the most bang for the buck, if its more expensive but much better then its worth it.
Thoughts?
Best topside paint? Method?
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Chaps
- Donator '09
- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:19 am
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- Your location: Seattle, WA
- Location: Seattle, WA
Welcome to the forum!
My topside alloy painting experience is really limited but my understanding is any quality automotive system should work well given proper prep & prime (which is easier talked about than accomplished).
I have applied a fair amount of Perfection on glass and wood and have achieved pretty reasonable results applying it fast & wet in cool conditions with a quality brush but on a super flat & fair surface (like alloy) I would likely spray it.
If you have a minute post up a bit about yourself and your boat over on the new members forum
My topside alloy painting experience is really limited but my understanding is any quality automotive system should work well given proper prep & prime (which is easier talked about than accomplished).
I have applied a fair amount of Perfection on glass and wood and have achieved pretty reasonable results applying it fast & wet in cool conditions with a quality brush but on a super flat & fair surface (like alloy) I would likely spray it.
If you have a minute post up a bit about yourself and your boat over on the new members forum
1987 24' LaConner pilothouse workboat, 225 Suzuki
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kmorin
- Donator 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
- Posts: 1752
- Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2008 1:37 am
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- Your location: Kenai, AK
- Location: Kenai, Alaska
Painting Topsides
mitchk,
I agree with Chaps, spraying is the only way to go and many automotive paints will work fine if the surface prep is adequate.
If you're stripping to bare metal then getting the oxide set up for paint will be more effort for someone of your experience than spaying some layers on top of that critical foundation.
Imron, Awlgrip are the big names, Petit's the next level down in cost and the PPG line (automotive) is probably next tier down. All of these will result in fine finishes if you can use a spray gun.
Most metal hulls are not sanded and buffed to full 'Bristol Yacht Finish' levels where your reflection is mirror-like so the two highest end products might not be worth their extra cost without fully sanding and long boarding the hull. If you have some welds showing through the topsides at bulkheads or decks, then using the Petit or PPG level products will give a great finish and probably cost much less.
I have several PPG painted boats that look fine- they were not faired to the mirror finish level mind you- and the paint has stayed on well for 15 years. The rub rails are chipped beyond homely, they're scuffed and chalked a bit in the sun and winter weather where these boats sit in a snow bank for months at at time. I'd trust PPG automotive paint on the next one too.
On the other hand, if your hull is faired to a high degree or you're going to add that work during this repaint- might as well compare the cost of going for the gold (you'll be spending some) and evaluate the Awlgrip and Imron products too.
cheers,
I agree with Chaps, spraying is the only way to go and many automotive paints will work fine if the surface prep is adequate.
If you're stripping to bare metal then getting the oxide set up for paint will be more effort for someone of your experience than spaying some layers on top of that critical foundation.
Imron, Awlgrip are the big names, Petit's the next level down in cost and the PPG line (automotive) is probably next tier down. All of these will result in fine finishes if you can use a spray gun.
Most metal hulls are not sanded and buffed to full 'Bristol Yacht Finish' levels where your reflection is mirror-like so the two highest end products might not be worth their extra cost without fully sanding and long boarding the hull. If you have some welds showing through the topsides at bulkheads or decks, then using the Petit or PPG level products will give a great finish and probably cost much less.
I have several PPG painted boats that look fine- they were not faired to the mirror finish level mind you- and the paint has stayed on well for 15 years. The rub rails are chipped beyond homely, they're scuffed and chalked a bit in the sun and winter weather where these boats sit in a snow bank for months at at time. I'd trust PPG automotive paint on the next one too.
On the other hand, if your hull is faired to a high degree or you're going to add that work during this repaint- might as well compare the cost of going for the gold (you'll be spending some) and evaluate the Awlgrip and Imron products too.
cheers,
kmorin
