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I'm to the point where painting the deck on my 1925V is a necessity.
I've searched the forums and have seen references made to painting, but it seems that no one has posted their actual experience with it.
I've got the FarWest paint and primer recommended by Julie @ Pacific. I'm sure there are details that would make this job go smoother, so if anyone out there has them, please share !
Specifically, I'm wondering if grinding the old paint off (most of it is lifting off) is the way to go or will a wire wheel work?
And what to clean the deck with after grinding (I imagine there will be a lot of oxide particles in the deck ?) without destroying my lungs or the atmosphere...
Things like that.

Thanks.

Save yourself all the grief and have the deck abrasive blasted. Find a local sand blast outfit that has a shop you can take the boat to and have them shoot it with one of their finer grades of blast media. If you were here I'd do it with my Farrow blaster. In fact I'll bet there is someone around you that has a Farrow machine which would be ideal. Or look for a car restoration place that does body & frame blasting. If you want to save some money and get it done right do the resist masking yourself. Go to Home Depot plumbing dept and pick up a roll of pipe wrap tape (20 mil black vinyl tape) and mask the edges of all the areas you don't want blasted like hullsides, deck fixtures, etc. If you have the boat ready to shoot you'll get faster service.

After blasting you can decide if you want to paint it or not. I leave them bare as there is no slip and no maintenance

I wonder if an auto body shop that applies the stuff to pickup truck beds could do the work?

After blasting you can decide if you want to paint it or not. I leave them bare as there is no slip and no maintenance.

Really Chaps ?
How rough is your deck if it's bare ?
Got any pics of what it looks like ?

I'll ask around for the blaster, but unfortunately, everything in these parts(Eastern Long Island) is expensive.
I'd probably have to go 40 miles to get a decent quote on work...

My Edwing was pretty slippery, decks were mill finish plate. I used a fine grade of crushed glass shot from the farrow blaster. The blasted area turned a semi-gloss silver color which contrasted with the oxidized plate in the surrounding areas. Sorry didn't take a pic. Best thing is now nothing slips. The surface has about the feel of 600 wet/dry sandpaper. If you get traditional dry blasting with medium grade silica sand it will be a bit too aggressive a profile in my opinion.

The surface has about the feel of 600 wet/dry sandpaper

Sounds nice. Sounds like it should be a factory option.

How about anyone else with an older Pacific hull - how's the deck paint holding up ?

Would love to see pics. I'll post my rear deck pic again (it's in the thread re: hull leaking), just to show...

That heavy non skid takes a lot of time to sandblast. You could take a 7" grinder with some 36 grit to knock some of the non skid down and then have it blasted. Sand blasting is all about time ,at $200/ hr, the less time, the less money. You could just grind down the deck at your leisure.

Welderbob

My 2005 pacific is holding up well. The non skid is a little thinned in some spots but not peeling at all.. I have not had any standing water in the hull.. SD

welderbob wrote:That heavy non skid takes a lot of time to sandblast. You could take a 7" grinder with some 36 grit to knock some of the non skid down and then have it blasted. Sand blasting is all about time ,at $200/ hr, the less time, the less money. You could just grind down the deck at your leisure.

Welderbob

Wow, I'm not charging enough. I agree that with stuff that thick getting rid of the bulk of it with a grinder then blasting is a good idea

How much of it actually needs to be replaced? It looks like a relatively small area in the stern. Why not keep it simple and grind/paint that area only and see how it looks?

How much of it actually needs to be replaced? It looks like a relatively small area in the stern. Why not keep it simple and grind/paint that area only and see how it looks?

Agreed - I was thinking of just doing the area up to the console ( an arbitrary straight line across the beginning of the console) to see how that went.
Actually, the bow deck is peeling pretty badly, and that area is a bit smaller and higher so I won't have to be on my hands and knees to grind. It's pretty easy to peel off by hand around the edges now,and it wouldn't surprise me if i could just lift it off with the help of my compressor and water jet stream. That's how de-laminated it feels...

our local sandblasting guy on the east side of Puget Sound charges $85. an hour. Chaps does a good job as well but he is on the west side of PS

dingahling wrote:I'm to the point where painting the deck on my 1925V is a necessity.
I've searched the forums and have seen references made to painting, but it seems that no one has posted their actual experience with it.
I've got the FarWest paint and primer recommended by Julie @ Pacific. I'm sure there are details that would make this job go smoother, so if anyone out there has them, please share !
Specifically, I'm wondering if grinding the old paint off (most of it is lifting off) is the way to go or will a wire wheel work?
And what to clean the deck with after grinding (I imagine there will be a lot of oxide particles in the deck ?) without destroying my lungs or the atmosphere...
Things like that.

Thanks.

Digaling,

I also have a gallon of that same paint. NO PRIMER. According to the man at Farwest Paints he said no primer is needed if it goes on top of the old paint. Which I have.

I too have one nasty-azz stained looking deck. Foot prints from people sparying themselves with sun screen. Blood stains that will not come out. and more.....
And I'm sure one gallon won't do me, but that's what I have now. I have stains where the original Nyalic was burned into the paint when fuel spilled on the deck. #1, Pacific shouldn't spray the deck paint with ANY Nyalic....It causes a new boat owner to get REALLY PISSED OFF, when a week old boat has a 2X2 stain that will never go away.

Gas eats Nyalic, period!!

I plan on "keeping it simple". I bought a few stipple carpet rollers, and plan on degreasing the deck and painting over the VERY POROUS original deck paint as per Farwest. If you have deck paint left (as you should) I wouldn't remove it all.

Afterwards I plan on NOT using Nyalic on the deck paint but rather somekind of tougher chemical resisitant clear top coat.

Jettywolf - I wonder if mine had Nyalic ? I don't think it does and I am inclined not to put on a clear coat of any kind afterward.

Did the FarWest rep/tech you spoke to recommend clear coating after ?

This is looking more and more like a Spring project, as the Bass run is on and by the time it stops, it'll be too cold to paint...

I like Chaps idea of no paint, just a 600 grit finish. I just wish he had pics of what it looks like.

I think I will experiment with the raised bow deck area since it is less than 4 sq. feet -start by stripping the paint off, achieve a 600 grit finish somehow, and if I don't like that , just paint the area.

No the stuff doesn't have to get a clear coat afterwards. But the idea was to keep it from being so porous. After lots of sun baking.

But I can tell ya one thing. In the 4 years I've had my 26 CC Pacific, whatever coating Nyalic or not that was on the paint is now foot traffic'd right off. And the deck paint is so porous that it sucks up the oil on a Potato chip that get crunched on the deck!

Then, that GD spray sun screen....I'd like to toss that crap in the water when I see it. I've banned it on the boat!

I'd never not want a painted no skid deck, myself.

How the hell are you missing paint on the deck. That Farwest stuff is so damn tough. What was the boat doing hauling concrete blocks????

I can't even imahine what it would take to scratch that paint off the deck???

How the hell are you missing paint on the deck. That Farwest stuff is so damn tough. What was the boat doing hauling concrete blocks????

I can't even imahine what it would take to scratch that paint off the deck???

My hull is 10 yrs old. I suspect the formulation of the paint has changed or it's an entirely different brand ? Or maybe 10 yrs+ is it's life span.
I'll post pics of the raised bow deck soon - the paint around the edges is just bubbling up - I really think i could get a scraper underneath the paint and just lift it off, it's that bad. In fact that's what I'll try, once the fishing season is done...

Yes your hull has a different type non-skid .

Ya gonna hate me fer sayin this...................marine grade carpet. Do not glue it down at all, use glued velcro in a few places, keep plenty of seawater on it when the blood is flying, wash it with fresh at the end of the trip. Mine has been down for nearly three years, boat is kept in the open, carpet is still good.
Easy on the feet, some noise reduction, no glare, cheap, stops stuff sliding around, will last 6-8 years. OK, JW, I hear ya already. You run a charter boat & this is not for you. Fair enough........horses for courses.

Pete,

Your point is valid. But if I had Carpet on the deck the girls in thong bikini's may want to lay out on my bow-deck and sun themselves, all day long. And we're fish hunting. Not "beaver" hunting. Seriously, I can't imagine carpet. Do you DEODERIZE yours?

Yes your hull has a different type non-skid .

Welder, just curious, how do you know ? You are a Pacific welder ?

Ya gonna hate me fer sayin this...................marine grade carpet

Ok Peterbo, I'll bite . where did you source yours, Westmarine ? - Any more pics of your carpeted deck?

dingahling wrote:

Yes your hull has a different type non-skid .

Welder, just curious, how do you know ? You are a Pacific welder ?

Ya gonna hate me fer sayin this...................marine grade carpet

Ok Peterbo, I'll bite . where did you source yours, Westmarine ? - Any more pics of your carpeted deck?

Ding,
I am way West & South of you. I do visit worstmarine on my US trips but there is no way I am lugging a roll of carpet on to a plane. You might try a few industrial carpet supply places. Marine & outdoor grade are pretty much the same dog but marine will be twice the price.


Just a deck with carpet.

I am way West & South of you

DOH ! I realized that after I posted and looked at your down under rig sig...
Thanks for the carpet pic - it looks glued down and pretty tight!

Hi Ding,
It is only glued to velcro strips at the transom end. The weight of the carpet plus the backing keep it in place. I can pull it up in 20 seconds.

The hulls made back around 2000 had a different type of non skid , a couple years later Pacific found and uses a better product, it's just the evolution of building.

and , no I don't weld for Pacific although I would like to work for them .

From what I have seen , every year , every Manufacture comes up with better ideas and I believe it's web sites like this one that the manufactures watch . I know they listen to what WE, the boat owners want and they try to incorporate our ideas into their newer line of boats.

That's Funny............a Pacific Boat Welder

in "BFE", Texas?

No, he's incharge of purchasing carpet at Pacific for the boats that get shipped to Austrialia.

Dingahling,
He's the owner of this fine website/forum. The leader of this gang of worldwide boaters that live and breath alloy boats.
Sometimes he plays a Lineman for the city......but only on TV.

C'mon....