Installing Rod Holders in a Pacific 2325

[Boston Joe]

Hi all, I was looking to install a few extra Perko rod holders in my Pacific 2325. I was wondering about the type of hole saw I should use and is using stainless hardware fine by itself or do I need to treat it or put some type of gasket between the two metals? Any help on this would be appreciated. Thank you. JOE.

[JETTYWOLF]

Try a brand new hole saw at least, rather than a used and abused one......like I have.

I think my from the factory holders are just in there plain, no gasketing other than the rubber under the holder that has a cap on a flap.

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[welder]

As Dave said above^^^^^^^^^^^^^ the rubber will work fine but the screws will need to be treated with something like tufgel .

Take your time on the holes and measure 3 or 4 times before drilling.
Remember to allow for the flange.

[IN2DEEP]

Is this the type of rod holder you are referring to?



If it is, I believe the clearance hole for the tube will not be round, but instead be oval shaped. I'm thinking if you cut a round it will end up being too large and break into the area that your mounting holes will be.
You can cut an oval hole using a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Be sure to use some kind of lubricant on the blade while sawing aluminum (WD-40 works good) You may need a die grinder to shape the tighter radius area.
I'd make a pattern out of some plywood or paneling similar to the thickness of the aluminum mounting area. Make sure your holder fits the sample pattern good before cutting your gunwale.
I'd fill all the air gaps under the flange with some non corrosive silicone to keep the water out of those areas. Also use a sealer between the gasket and aluminum to prevent aluminum oxide from forming under there. Also the screws.
Hope this helps and makes sense.

Scott

[Boston Joe]

Thank you all for the help. JOE.

[Desert Dog]

I always make a template out of cardboard before cutting holes in my boat. Both for the size of the hole and the location.

Swing by an appliance store and scrounge up some old appliance boxes for large pieces.

And yes, I learned to do this the hard way.... :roll: :roll:

DDog

[NUKE]

Thank you all for the help. JOE.

I cut red rubber gasket material from hardware dept .keeps the stainless from direct contact and displaces standing water under brackets like radios and speakers ,or popup cleats and rod holders.

P.S. are you boston Joe from stripersonline? good luck !

[Boston Joe]

Ok, for fun..... I, removed the old rod holders at the back of the boat to see how the factory mounted them. To my shock, the screws were almost completly fused to the aluminum and, there was much pitting around the area where the rod holders sat flat on the gunnels. Why whould the factory "Pacific" do an install like this knowing how aluminum reacts with other metals? Do I need to look at all the screws in the boat and SS hardware to make sure the same thing is not happening? I, made a plywood jig at a 45 degree angle to match the new rod holders. It looks like it will work. I, will keep my fingers crossed when I start to cut the holes. Thank you all again for your input. Joe.

[NUKE]

I like he rubber gasket between hard surfaces and all my extra gear is bolted, with ss and nylon stopnuts cut the rubber to just a hair larger than the surface that makes contact and bolt it down 8)

[IN2DEEP]

"Why whould the factory "Pacific" do an install like this knowing how aluminum reacts with other metals?"

I think it's because it would add time to the rigging of the boat.
Does Pacific install rod holders at their factory or does the dealer do it?

I'll always try to do it myself because I'll take the extra time to do it right.
I'd still use a layer of silicone between the rubber gasket and the aluminum.
Just speaking from my experiences.

Scott

[skypoke]

I know I'm in the minority here but I went with plastic rod holders for just this reason. Some stainless steel is unavoidable but ss and alum are very reactive...more so than galvanized steel.

Many wahoo knock downs later I've yet to have a problem with my el cheapo rod holders. They're riveted in with heavy alum rivets.

Chuck

[gandrfab]

How about aluminum flush mount

Leaning Post and Gunnel Mount
Rod Holders (Aluminum)
10°, 15° - 30° & 90°
http://www.etecmarine.com/

[IN2DEEP]

gadrfab,
Do you know if the flush mount rod holders have an anodized finish on them?
Is this where you work or one of your suppliers when you build your towers?

Thanks, Scott

[gandrfab]

The holders come standard anodized finish
but I am sure the holders can be ordered plain mill finish
E-tec is one of my suppliers

[IN2DEEP]

Anodize is a good thing. :P
Thanks for the reply!

[Ironwoodtuna]

IMO I have found that when I made either 1/8" PVC or rubber gaskets for things on my boat that it has proven to be better to use black BoatChalk chalking to make a water tight fit other wise when you remove the device a year or two later you have al sorts of aluminum corrosion.I would rather completey seal between the pieces the are sitting botled or screwed together. I used multiple wraps of PVC electrical tape between the railing clamp on Perko rod holders for the same reason. Marty

[dagojoe]

I have an 18' aluminum Lund boat and want to mount a flush mounted rod holder. This discussion has been helpful. One question, is it necessary to use a back plate when mounting the rod holder to the gunwale?

Thanks
Joe

[welder]

How thick is your gunwale, if it is10Ga. or thinner I would use a backing plate.

[goatram]

You can trace out the cutout using the rubber gasket that the rod holder came with. Measure the width dimension not the long one use a hole saw next side down. A round file or a aggressive burr bit in your drill or an air diegrinder.

Use telgel or dielectric grease on the fasteners and3M 4200 or sikaflex between the rupper and Aluminum. Clean up both of the sealants with DNA Alcohol.