How to eliminate bunk pitting

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Fisherman
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How to eliminate bunk pitting

#1

Post by Fisherman »

As many of you know, I'm in the process of designing a custom alloy boat. It will be used in salt, and stored on a trailer. I've seen/heard of many instances where pitting develops where the alloy rests on the bunks. What can I do to mitigate this from the beginning?
Chaps
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#2

Post by Chaps »

Use plastic covers on the bunks instead of (or put them over) carpet. Make sure the covers don't have areas that can trap water against the hull.
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#3

Post by cgrand »

cut some perforated plastic landscaping pipe down the long seam
pull it down over the bunk
step back and admire the cleverness of your $6.00 solution
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#4

Post by welder »

If you use wood , DO NOT use ANY TREATED WOOD, When I redo mine I'm using cypress and only carpeting 3 sides . Cgrands idea works very well andd is a way to save big bucks just make sure you have a GOOD wench strap and reel good stern straps as the plastic is very slippery.
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#5

Post by MacCTD »

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Sabs28
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#6

Post by Sabs28 »

I had the same idea :idea: but planed on using the plastic bed liner that was in my truck. Cheap & easily replaceable. :thumbsup:
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THEMOORINGMAN
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#7

Post by THEMOORINGMAN »

Why would you use a bunk trailer anyhow? The bunks never rest fully against the hull so you end up with a stress concentration factor plus the wood rots out the boat! Is it because they're cheaper or the aluminum bottom isn't strong enough for a roller trailer?

I've designed a new system that will one day revolutionize how a trailer supports a boat!!
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Sabs28
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#8

Post by Sabs28 »

I think most use bunk trailers for the same reason there is an aluminum/ aluminum alloy boat on the trailer, LOW MAINTENANCE. Other than the carpet or the plastic covers wearing out once every 5-10 years, its cheaper to replace than 30-80 rollers at what ever they cost & the time to replace them. Just my $0.02.
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#9

Post by pjay9 »

My roller trailer does a fine job...all you have to do is make sure that one set of rollers is directly under the tansom and the rest in good support areas of the hull...the more rollers on a really big boat the better. I really like the rollers as you can clean the hull easeily by just moving the boat back and forth to get at at all the areas. No rot no pits! Capt PJ
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#10

Post by pjay9 »

Sabs28 wrote:I think most use bunk trailers for the same reason there is an aluminum/ aluminum alloy boat on the trailer, LOW MAINTENANCE. Other than the carpet or the plastic covers wearing out once every 5-10 years, its cheaper to replace than 30-80 rollers at what ever they cost & the time to replace them. Just my $0.02.
That may be true for folks who don't wash after a salt excursion...to tell you what I do with a roller trailer...I don't back into the salt with the rollers...so no issues...if I did then they get rinsed while rinsing the boat...you do rinse your boat? Therefore no replacement costs, plus about twice a season I give the rollers a squirt of the good ol' WD. tell you what ERKS me on trailers are the bolts...they will rust just sitting in the yard...why don't they use a higher quality. I had a boat and roller trailer for 23 years and never replaced a hull roller...had to replace the bow stop roller as it split from age and most likely sun degradation. Capt PJ

Sorry this is about stopping pits...I think if you are using a bunk system then the plastic covers are the way to go as so many of the manufacturers are producing them that way...but it still seems to me that they should get a good rinse if it is in salt.
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Sabs28
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#11

Post by Sabs28 »

I live 2 miles from a lake. I don't just "rinse off" the boat, I take it for a short put, clean out the motor, live well pumps, back the trailer in & out of the water a few times to rinse it as well, then I hook up the garden hose to my scrubby brush with the hose fitting in the handle & give the boat a quick scrub on the areas the short water trip didn't clean. Takes about 30 minutes from start to finish. :thumbsup:
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#12

Post by JETTYWOLF »

I used home depot, plastic "carpet runner". And just put it over the carpet. And I already had non- pressure treated Cypress bunks, but just did it... "IN CASE".

My quality trailer builder already thought of that. Looks to me like that pipe stuff will just bust and crack if used with a heavier boat. Plus, not being slippery, is also a benefit when trailering in traffic.
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VENTURE BUNK TRAILERS

#13

Post by THEMOORINGMAN »

FYI. I just became a Venture trailer dealer and they use Pine for their bunks, NOT PT wood.
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#14

Post by speedboats »

[quote="THEMOORINGMAN"]Why would you use a bunk trailer anyhow? The bunks never rest fully against the hull so you end up with a stress concentration factor plus the wood rots out the boat! Is it because they're cheaper or the aluminum bottom isn't strong enough for a roller trailer? [quote]


We use alloy bunks with HMWPE fastened to it, plenty slipery enough, no corrosion issues and better supports the boat any day of the week. Rollers will always put slight dents in the underside of the boat while bunks won't for the same reasons tracked vehicles put less pressure psi on the ground than wheeled ones.

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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#15

Post by Fisherman »

I'm going to put some starboard on my current trailer. Any reason to leave the carpet on? Seems like it would be better to remove it to prolong the life of the wood??
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#16

Post by Chaps »

speedboats wrote:
THEMOORINGMAN wrote:Why would you use a bunk trailer anyhow? The bunks never rest fully against the hull so you end up with a stress concentration factor plus the wood rots out the boat! Is it because they're cheaper or the aluminum bottom isn't strong enough for a roller trailer?


We use alloy bunks with HMWPE fastened to it, plenty slipery enough, no corrosion issues and better supports the boat any day of the week. Rollers will always put slight dents in the underside of the boat while bunks won't for the same reasons tracked vehicles put less pressure psi on the ground than wheeled ones.

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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#17

Post by falmouthmetal »

I have a 10+ year old load rite roller trailer for my Pacific. I hose off the rollers when I remember to with salt away after use. No problems with corrosion or deformation of hull. The rollers have held up well, I don't think maintenance is a big deal
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#18

Post by THEMOORINGMAN »

A roller trailer with 64 rollers will put slight dents in my 0.250" bottom Edwing? I'd have to question that.
Last edited by THEMOORINGMAN on Sat May 19, 2012 5:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
kmorin
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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#19

Post by kmorin »

THEMOORINGMAN decimal's correct in the bottom scantling?

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Re: How to eliminate bunk pitting

#20

Post by goatram »

I would hope it is .250" = 1/4" and not .025". That would be paper thin :shocked:
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