batteries
batteries
I have a 2005 pacific V2025 135 Honda. Two batteries original factory installed in 2005. Minimal electronics (gps/ff/vhf/ rarely used deck lighting) No electrical problems until recently when I went to start and batteries were dead. I had left the selector switch on 'all' setting instead of 'off' for about two weeks accidentally when the boat was out of the water between uses. I recharged one battery overnight and successfully restarted the following day, ran for several hours with electronics off, then used boat multiple times daily for the following week with no problems starting and running electronics. Questions: would anyone handle this situation differently? How do you guys use your selector switch (I keep mine on 'all' all the time when on the water, 'off' between uses of the boat)? Should I replace my batteries at this point? What brand/type of battery would you use? Any other thoughts? Thanks
Re: batteries
I would have checked the water level filled with distilled water if needed and charged both batteries. The battery selector should be set to OFF when the boat is not in use. Also make sure the bilge pump is hard wired to a battery, or both in parallel, "before the switch", direct to the batteries.
I am also not a fan of the two battery one switch wiring. I go for a two battery, two switch setup. This helps protect expensive electronics from "cracking amps" when starting the motor. I know "The fishermen" did a great 2 part article of battery wiring.
I also added a quick connect winter charging connection to both battery's so that when it starts to get cold out the batteries are always ready to go. I did spend a little money on the charger and got a automatic charger for weather to below 40.
I am also not a fan of the two battery one switch wiring. I go for a two battery, two switch setup. This helps protect expensive electronics from "cracking amps" when starting the motor. I know "The fishermen" did a great 2 part article of battery wiring.
I also added a quick connect winter charging connection to both battery's so that when it starts to get cold out the batteries are always ready to go. I did spend a little money on the charger and got a automatic charger for weather to below 40.
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Re: batteries
There is a date code burned into the top front of the batteries, check it and see how old they really are. For lead acid batteries my dealer recommends replacing them every 4-5 years.
As for the switch, my understanding is that ALL should be used only as a last resort (motor won't start on one or two), because ALL will combine the two batteries so if you have 1 good and 1 dead, the dead one will pull the charge from the good one and you won't be able to use either.
What I do is use battery 1 on odd days of the month and battery 2 on even days of the month, so both batteries stay used and also charged.
Good luck.
As for the switch, my understanding is that ALL should be used only as a last resort (motor won't start on one or two), because ALL will combine the two batteries so if you have 1 good and 1 dead, the dead one will pull the charge from the good one and you won't be able to use either.
What I do is use battery 1 on odd days of the month and battery 2 on even days of the month, so both batteries stay used and also charged.
Good luck.
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Re: batteries
Replace both batts , I have to do the same and I am going with AGM's . I tow my boat long distances and beat the snott out of it in the gulf [ Towing and pounding are very hard on Lead Acid batts] not to mention the 100*+ temp change here in Texas .
As far as One or Both, only run on ONE batt at a time and DO NOT switch your selector whilr the motor is running , ALWAYS shut down your electronics then shut off the motor THEN switch to 1-2 or Both if needed . As said above , a BAD batt will bring the other down REAL FAST and then you are done.
With a 2nd switch you can use one batt for a house batt [ No Starting ] and the 2nd batt for starting only but the charging system will charge both and with the 2 switches you can still combine both batts in case of emergancy to start the motor.
As far as One or Both, only run on ONE batt at a time and DO NOT switch your selector whilr the motor is running , ALWAYS shut down your electronics then shut off the motor THEN switch to 1-2 or Both if needed . As said above , a BAD batt will bring the other down REAL FAST and then you are done.
With a 2nd switch you can use one batt for a house batt [ No Starting ] and the 2nd batt for starting only but the charging system will charge both and with the 2 switches you can still combine both batts in case of emergancy to start the motor.
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
Re: batteries
It sounds like AGM may be the way to go but is a lot more expensive. Do you guys use separate starting and deep cycle batteries? My understanding is they cannot be used interchangeably. Starting should be used for starting only and deep cycle for electronics only, correct? Mixed use batteries can be used interchangeably I guess. Also if a bad battery brings down the good, then why was I able to run no problem with the selector set on all after recharging only one battery?
Re: batteries
All the AGM batteries allow you to do is place the battery sideways with the terminals on the side. Makes its easier to fit tight areas. There is NO advantage changing to AGM vs old acid style. They are the same old style battery just with a gel and thin fiber mat inside.
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Re: batteries
Hi All:
I thought I could help out a little here on this battery subject. Batteries are a very complex subject as of late and I will
explain. For our purpose there are basicly lead acid, AGM and Gell Cell batteries. They all have their advantages and
disadvantages. First Lead acid (wet cell) are broken into two basic categories. lead/antimony type and lead/calcium type.
Again both have their ups and down side. Lead/Antimony can be charged back to full charge very quickly and feature
rugged plate design. They are mainly now used in equipment such as forklifts and such. They have a fairly long life when kept
charged and can handle high charging voltage and amperage (14.5 - 15V ). The other wet cell is Lead calcium design. These
batteries generally provide higher CCA and are nearly impervious to high charging voltage. They are very low gassing battery
compared to lead/antimony also. If you have ever see a AC Delco Freedom battery your were looking at a lead/calcium
battery. Drawback is they do not take kindly to repeated deep discharges (100% or less than 11.8V) and they can only reach
100% depth of charge by charging at a 14.8v level. Sometimes for as long a 24 hours when deeply discharged . If one is
deeply discharged more than 5-8 times its all over....... That is why they are a poor choice for outboard style boats. I know
no outboards capable of charging a lead/Calcium battery.
Now Gel/Cell and AGM batteries have very similar properties. They are not the choice for repeated heavy current drawing.
They are not designed for that . The chemical reaction is much slower in these battery designs and that is why they are
often used in automobiles unless the charging system is calibrated for the design. Gell cell and AGM batteries cannot
be charged at voltages higher than 14.4V. It will damage the battery and its capacity will be reduced . However this type
of battery design can take unbelievable vibration without damage and be repeatedly deeply discharged without damage.
So there you have it basicly. Boats beat the hell out of batteries and heat kills them too. A lead acid battery will lose 10%
of its charge every day at temps over 100 degrees. That is pretty often for us (batteries in the hull) Gell cells and AGM
batteries are a better choice but they are more exspensive and require long recovery charges (overnight).
For all out hot temps there are Lead/calcium/silver/acid batteries that can operate very comfortably in constant 120
degree temps. One important note . Chech your batteries during the season to keep them fully charged 12.68 to 12.7V
open curcuit voltage. Never let a battery sit for extended periods discharged (less than 12.6V). The plates will calcify quickly
and depleat the batteries life. At the end of your boating season fully chage your batteries and leave them in the boat
diconnected and clean. Fully charged batteries will not freeze basicly go dormant. Hope that helps in your
decision.
I thought I could help out a little here on this battery subject. Batteries are a very complex subject as of late and I will
explain. For our purpose there are basicly lead acid, AGM and Gell Cell batteries. They all have their advantages and
disadvantages. First Lead acid (wet cell) are broken into two basic categories. lead/antimony type and lead/calcium type.
Again both have their ups and down side. Lead/Antimony can be charged back to full charge very quickly and feature
rugged plate design. They are mainly now used in equipment such as forklifts and such. They have a fairly long life when kept
charged and can handle high charging voltage and amperage (14.5 - 15V ). The other wet cell is Lead calcium design. These
batteries generally provide higher CCA and are nearly impervious to high charging voltage. They are very low gassing battery
compared to lead/antimony also. If you have ever see a AC Delco Freedom battery your were looking at a lead/calcium
battery. Drawback is they do not take kindly to repeated deep discharges (100% or less than 11.8V) and they can only reach
100% depth of charge by charging at a 14.8v level. Sometimes for as long a 24 hours when deeply discharged . If one is
deeply discharged more than 5-8 times its all over....... That is why they are a poor choice for outboard style boats. I know
no outboards capable of charging a lead/Calcium battery.
Now Gel/Cell and AGM batteries have very similar properties. They are not the choice for repeated heavy current drawing.
They are not designed for that . The chemical reaction is much slower in these battery designs and that is why they are
often used in automobiles unless the charging system is calibrated for the design. Gell cell and AGM batteries cannot
be charged at voltages higher than 14.4V. It will damage the battery and its capacity will be reduced . However this type
of battery design can take unbelievable vibration without damage and be repeatedly deeply discharged without damage.
So there you have it basicly. Boats beat the hell out of batteries and heat kills them too. A lead acid battery will lose 10%
of its charge every day at temps over 100 degrees. That is pretty often for us (batteries in the hull) Gell cells and AGM
batteries are a better choice but they are more exspensive and require long recovery charges (overnight).
For all out hot temps there are Lead/calcium/silver/acid batteries that can operate very comfortably in constant 120
degree temps. One important note . Chech your batteries during the season to keep them fully charged 12.68 to 12.7V
open curcuit voltage. Never let a battery sit for extended periods discharged (less than 12.6V). The plates will calcify quickly
and depleat the batteries life. At the end of your boating season fully chage your batteries and leave them in the boat
diconnected and clean. Fully charged batteries will not freeze basicly go dormant. Hope that helps in your
decision.
- welder
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Re: batteries
SJD wrote:It sounds like AGM may be the way to go but is a lot more expensive. Do you guys use separate starting and deep cycle batteries? My understanding is they cannot be used interchangeably. Starting should be used for starting only and deep cycle for electronics only, correct? Mixed use batteries can be used interchangeably I guess. Also if a bad battery brings down the good, then why was I able to run no problem with the selector set on all after recharging only one battery?
I think your Honda will keep running with out a battery hooked to it BUT do not try it to prove me wrong.
Lester,
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
PacificV2325, Honda BF225
2386
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Re: batteries
Welder:
Most electronic control alternators will continue to run an engine management system if the batteries are disconnected
however there will a very high voltage spike (over 200V) when the disconnect takes place and sensitive electronics
are very likely to be damaged. The battery act just like a capacitor in the charging system and smooths the pulsed DC that
the alternators rectifier produces.
I think the best overall advice for multiple battery systems is to have them all on line when you are running to your
destination and when you shut down to drift or anchor switch to a single battery. This will take advantage of full charging
amperage at high engine RPM during travel and save your extra battery for reserve while on the hook or drifting.
Key to all battery types is to keep them fully charged when not in use otherwise they will give you fits when you least exspect
it. Don't forget , do not use a charger intended for lead acid batteries to charge Gell or AGM batteries. The charge voltage
is too high and you will damage the battery. Save that type of charger for lead acid or lead/calcium batteries. They charge
very nicely at 14.8 to 16V. If anyone would like to read up and more battery info I would direct you DEKA Batteries web site.
They privide detailed infomation on battery designs and battery testing and maintenance.
Most electronic control alternators will continue to run an engine management system if the batteries are disconnected
however there will a very high voltage spike (over 200V) when the disconnect takes place and sensitive electronics
are very likely to be damaged. The battery act just like a capacitor in the charging system and smooths the pulsed DC that
the alternators rectifier produces.
I think the best overall advice for multiple battery systems is to have them all on line when you are running to your
destination and when you shut down to drift or anchor switch to a single battery. This will take advantage of full charging
amperage at high engine RPM during travel and save your extra battery for reserve while on the hook or drifting.
Key to all battery types is to keep them fully charged when not in use otherwise they will give you fits when you least exspect
it. Don't forget , do not use a charger intended for lead acid batteries to charge Gell or AGM batteries. The charge voltage
is too high and you will damage the battery. Save that type of charger for lead acid or lead/calcium batteries. They charge
very nicely at 14.8 to 16V. If anyone would like to read up and more battery info I would direct you DEKA Batteries web site.
They privide detailed infomation on battery designs and battery testing and maintenance.
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Re: batteries
If your boat is starting fine now with no problems then you should be fine. I would haowever check the water level in them just to make sure its full. We always run with our switch on "all" and turn it off once the boat has been pulled out of the water.
Re: batteries
I guess i have been very lucky in my batteries over many decades. I always look after my battery...check water, keep terms clean and wires good and big enuf for the job. I have never and don't recall ever turning off a bat switch, except to foil a person trying to do something I don't want them to do. I have left bats for months and have had a good start...even on my charter with 8D's and a 3208Cat to start. I have my local guy with his load tester check my batteries when I get to 4 years.
The two OEM bats in my Dodge are dated Nov 2003 and still going strong...put two gel type in the camper (first time) and have had good use so far...time will tell if they are worth it!
So I would say if my bats were giving me issues...get them checked to see if they can hold a load, if not don't rely on them very long...I get my bats from Discount battery...they are top of the line bats without the fancy label and white case...I have had no issues with them...once I had a early failure and it was replaced no question and I was only charged for the year I had it...good folks!
JM experiences. Capt PJ
The two OEM bats in my Dodge are dated Nov 2003 and still going strong...put two gel type in the camper (first time) and have had good use so far...time will tell if they are worth it!
So I would say if my bats were giving me issues...get them checked to see if they can hold a load, if not don't rely on them very long...I get my bats from Discount battery...they are top of the line bats without the fancy label and white case...I have had no issues with them...once I had a early failure and it was replaced no question and I was only charged for the year I had it...good folks!
JM experiences. Capt PJ
2009 Raider 185 Pro Fisherman, 2005 90Yamaha, 2012 Yamaha9.9HT, 2008 EzLoader roller, 2004 Dodge TCD dually, 2005/2015 Lance1161